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1847 October

1 This morning... left the Station [Waitangi], and by starlight arrived at Waimarama.

2 At 3, p.m., we left [Waimarama]... Crossing over the hills... gaining [Manawarakau] by 9 p.m.

3 [At Manawarakau].

4 left [Manawarakau] at noon... 4 hours toilsome & dangerous scramble over tidal rocks & fallen cliffs... travelled till near Sunset and halted at Tuingara.

5 resumed our journey [from Tuingara]. 4½ hours of steady travel­ling took us to Pakoẁai, a little village….

6 left [Pakoẁai].... At 3, p.m. we reached Porangahau;

7 Left [Porangahau] at noon... rain... at 3, p.m., obliged us to halt at Wangaehu, a little deserted fishing-village....

8 [at Wangaehu].

9 At ½ past 10 we started [from Wangaehu]... and reached Tautane, the beach near Cape Turnagain by 3 p.m. [thence over] one long open and heavy beach... in 2 hours... gained Pakuku....

10 [at Pakuku].

11 started [from Pakuku]... 3½ hours... brought us to Akitio.... At noon we left; and by starlight reached Mataikona….

12 [at Mataikona].

13 At noon we left [Mataikona] for Rangiwakaoma, and arrived there at 4, p.m.

14 left [Rangiwakaoma]…. Travelled for 3½ hours, when... we halted... nearly noon ere we again resumed our journey. At 2 p.m. we reached Ẁareama .... Leaving Ẁareama, we soon reached the very small village of Waipupu.... Continuing our journey till Sunset, we halted for the night at Te Uruti....

15 resuming our journey [from Te Uruti]... halted for the night in an old potatoe plantation....

16 [proceeded and] gained Ẁaraurangi village by 11 a. m…. At 1 p.m. we left and at 5 gained Pahawa;

17-18 [at Pahawa].

19 At 1, p.m. we left [Pahawa].... At 5 o’Clock we reached Te Awaiti, a little village....

20 we left [Te Awaiti] at 11 o’Clock for Oroi, at which place we arrived by 4 p.m….

21 started [from Oroi]…. Two hours travelling brought us to Kuraẁaẁanui, the Sheep Station of Mr. Barton…. Continuing our journey until Sunset, we halted for the night on the shores of Palliser Bay.

22 Recommencing our journey we gained Te Kopi by 11, a. m….

23-25 [at Te Kopi].

26 left [Te Kopi]…. Arriving at the lagoon (Wairarapa), we found the crossing to be dangerous, there being only a very small Canoe... ferried over... proceeding on... we arrived at Uawa, a small village….

27 left Uawa... at Waimarara, a small stream we halted.... Resuming our journey... over the heavy sands and craggy rocks, through the sea and over the cliffs and heights until nearly 9, p.m., when we reached Pitoone....

28 left [Pitoone] at 2 p.m., for Wellington. Arrived at… 4....

29 [at Wellington].

30 returned [from Wellington] to Pitoone;

31 [at Pitoone].

1847 November

1 walked [from Pitoone to Wellington].

2 left [Wellington]... and arrived at Pitoone, at 9, p.m.

3 [at Pitoone].

4 left Pitoone... by the new road leading up the valley of Heretaunga (“Hutt”)… called upon Mr. Barton… up the valley, which is densely wooded... halted for the night [above] the River Te Mangaroa....

5 [left] at 8, a.m. commenced ascending the [Tararua] mountain range, and about 4 p.m., gained the summit of the range, very nearly to which place the road has been cut… as the evening was fast advancing, we hastened to descend by a miserable Native path to the vallies below… through thick woods, when finding a dry and level spot we halted for the night in the forest.

6 An hour’s travelling brought us upon the line of road upon this (the Wairarapa) side of the mountain range; and another hour... to the flat open country of Wairarapa... travelled on for several miles over dry stony plains, on which a rambling thorny shrub, (a species of Discaria) of stunted growth abounded…. At 1, p.m. we determined to cross the swamp, and cut through the wood before us… [which wood] was entirely composed of a net-work of deep pools of water, among which various species of Carices (appropriately named by the Settlers, Cutting- and Razor-Grass) most luxuriantly grew, attaining to the height of 10-12 feet and upwards... we... little expected that we were entering on Kaitara, a forest, which, for its entangled denseness and deep swamps, has been proverbial for ages with the New Zealanders.... The Taẁara fruit (or, rather, the spathaceous bracts which enclose the flowers of the Freycineta [sic] Banksii, which are thick, white, succulent and very sweet,) being ripe & growing plentifully about us, we gathered and ate as we went... sloped away towards the SE., in order to avoid the water... continued to force our way through... the wood &, fortunately, we ... found a small space among the pools of water, where we... halted.

7 LORD’S day... rested during the Sabbath in the wood;

8 left our encampment.... In less than 2 hours we cleared the wood, and, [entered] the plain beyond... paddled [in 2 canoes] down the R. Ruamahunga a few miles, when landing we proceeded to Huaangarua....

9 [at Huaangarua].

10 left Huaangarua ... [reached] the village [of Okahu]... travelled to Te Ahiaruhe... [went on] to Hurunuiorangi (a village about 4 miles farther up the [Wairarapa] valley)….

11 proceeded slowly up the valley…. Towards evening we arrived at Te Kaikokirikiri....

12-14 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

15 left Te Kaikokirikiri... travelling over the hot & dry stony plains... travelled till past noon, when we halted on the banks of the River Ruamahanga… we entered the long forest, and travelling smartly till Sunset, gained the banks of the River Makakahi, where we spent the night.

16 recommenced our journey… and at iv. p.m., arrived at Te Hawera village.

17 [at Te Hawera].

18 commenced our wet and toilsome march [from Te Hawera]…. About Sunset we arrived at Ngaawapurua....

19 “poling” up the river [from Ngaawapurua]…. At iii p.m. we landed at Otawao (a deserted village)... continued our course, and arrived at Puehutai an hour before sunset.

20-21 [at Puehutai].

22 At ii p.m., we left this village [Puehutai] for Te Hautotara

23 left [Te Hautotara]… proceeded by a new route through the thick woods from which we emerged shortly before Sunset....

24 continuing... we arrived at Eparaima by 4 p.m.

25 At 10, a.m., we left [Eparaima] for Te Waipukurau... arrived at that place by 4, p.m….

26 [at Te Waipukurau].

27 left [Te Waipukurau] for Patangata…. Afternoon, we arrived at that village....

28 [at Patangata].

29 noon, left [Patangata]. By Sunset we reached Kohinurakau;

30 left [Kohinurakau], and at iv. p.m. arrived at the Mission Station [Waitangi].



1847 December

1-26 [at Waitangi].

27 Left the Station at 10, a.m., for Patea. By ½ past 8, p.m. we reached Raukawa….

28 started [from Raukawa] at noon. At 6, p.m. we halted in rain under some limestone crags in a desolate wild....

29 started, and travelled, 2½ hours, to the River Mangaonuku…. The great Ruataniẁa plain lay before us.... Travelling steadily, we crossed an angle of it in 3 hours, when we reached Motu-o-wae... resuming our journey, we travelled on in the stony bed of the Waipaua River till Sunset.

30 at xi... left... travelled... in... the middle of the bed of the river [Waipaua]….

31 at x. we left. At iii, p.m., we reached the summit of the [Ruahine] range... [continued] our march until half past vi. when we halted on one of the lateral ridges of the range....

1848 January

1 did not leave till x. a.m. and travelled steadily on until near ix. p.m., when, through great exertion we reached Te Awarua, a small village of the Patea district;

2 [at Te Awarua].

3 left [Te Awarua] at x , and at ii. p.m., we reached Matuku;

4-5 [at Matuku].

6 At ii. p.m., we left [Matuku], on our return... to Te Awarua... at vi. we reached that village.

7 left Te Awarua.... At ii. p.m., we were obliged to halt... on the banks of the River Ẁakaurekou...

8 at x... we started from our wigwam, and... made Ngaroto (our old sleeping-place) in 7 hours.

9 [at Ngaroto].

10 Travelled very leisurely over the heights [of the Ruahine range] all day.

11 Ditto; and descended the mountain towards Hawke’s Bay. At evening gained the bed of the River Makororo, where we halted.

12 travelled 2 hours [down the Makaroro river when the rain] obliged us to put up our tent, and to make a house to shelter ourselves;

13 travelled steadily on... until ½ past xi. p.m., when we threw ourselves down on the grass by the side of the Lake Rotoatara.

14 [crossed to the islet in the lake]. At ix. a.m., we left... and, travelling steadily, reached the Station [Waitangi] at viii. p.m.

15-31 [at Waitangi].

1848 February

1-8 [at Waitangi]

9 Left the Station at x. this morning in my Canoe... landed [near Ahuriri]… leaving [Ahuriri]… and paddling on... we crossed Ahuriri harbour... proceeded overland, and by Sunset reached Tangoio.

10 left [Tangoio, but] heavy rain... caused us to descend the hills into some old sheds… where... we passed the night [halfway to Aropauanui].

11 resumed our journey, and soon arrived at Aropauanui....

12 At ii, we left [Aropauanui]…. at v. we reached Tangoio.

13-14 [at Tangoio].

15 started [from Tangoio]... continued our journey until Sunset, when we halted on the heights of Wahieanoa.

16 resuming our journey this morning we travelled on until 4, p.m., when we reached the River Mohaka... [stopped at a] dusty camp, situated on the edge of a steep picturesque cliff, 150 feet high, looking directly down into the Mohaka River.

17 proceeded towards Tarawera... In 2½ hours we gained the top of the range... [where] we spent the remainder of the day & night.

18 started... proceeded to Tarawera, which we reached by 2 p.m….

19-20 [at Tarawera].

21 proceeded [from Tarawera] on our return to the Station.... At 2 p.m. gained the heights of the mountain pass [Titiokura]... halted [at Sunset] at Wahieanoa....

22 resumed our journey [from Wahieanoa]; and by evening gained Te Kapemaihi village on the shore of Hawke’s Bay.

23 [left Te Kapemaihi]... Entering the Canoe we paddled on... and... by 3, p.m., reached the Station [Waitangi].

24-29 [at Waitangi].



1848 March

1-22 [at Waitangi].

23 left Station at xi. A. m... [but] could not reach Ngaẁakatatara village....

24 left our bivouack, and soon reached Ngaẁakatatara... proceeded on to Patangata... after which we travelled on, 3 hours farther, to Te Tamumu....

25 Leaving Te Tamumu... we soon gained Te Ẁataarakai (the proposed site of my new Station).... At iv. p.m. we arrived at Te Waipukurau village….

26-27 [at Te Waipukurau].

28 left [Te Waipukurau]... over the exposed downs... gained Te Ẁiti, our usual sleeping place at the entrance of the forest....

29 At noon we started [from Te Ẁiti] & travelled till dark, halting in the forest.

30 resumed our journey. At ii p.m. we gained Te Hautotara village….

31 left [Te Hautotara] for Puehutai.... In less than 3 hours we reached it.



1848 April

1-3 [at Puehutai].

4 Left [Puehutai]... in ten Canoes at xi. a.m., and in six hours reached Ngaawapurua.

5 started [from Ngaawapurua] at ix. a.m., for Te Hawera... [reached it] by vi. p.m. ­

6-9 [at Te Hawera].

10 At ix. a.m... we started [from Te Hawera]... travelled nearly six hours... and halted in the forest;

11 started at xi. and travelled till Sunset, when we gladly emerged from the forest, and halted for the night on the banks of the Ruamahanga river....

12 proceeded. Two hours... brought us to the little village of Tihi... at ii. p.m., resumed our journey. At 5. we reached Te Kaikokirikiri.

13-17 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

18 left [Te Kaikokirikiri], at x. a. m…. At iii. p.m. we reached Hurunuiorangi... [from whence] we travelled on towards the coast until dusk... our course [lying] through pathless untrodden wilds & thickets….

19 made the best of our way towards Te Takapau (a small village on Pahawa River,) which place we reached by Sunset;

20 travelled... down the bed of the [Pahawa] river [and] reached Pahawa by iv. p.m....

21-23 [at Pahawa].

24 At 1, p.m., we left [Pahawa], By Sunset we reached Te Awaiti....

25 At noon we left Te Awaiti... over the craggy rocks, and gladly reached Oroi by Sunset.

26 At noon we left [Oroi]; We travelled till Sunset, when we reached Cape Palliser, where we halted.

27 started [from Cape Palliser], and reached Te Kopi by 2 p.m.;

28-30 [at Te Kopi].



1848 May

1 started [from Te Kopi]. We gained the end of the long beach by Sunset... and, at 8 p.m., reached Uawa….

2 travelled on [from Uawa] till dark, when we halted for the night at Okiwi, in Port Nicholson harbour….

3 left Okiwi [in] an old canoe... After 3½ hours... reached the shore at Pitoone… left for Wellington.

4 [at Wellington].

5 left at noon for Ohariu, a village on the W. Coast... up and down steep & miry hills, and by Sunset reached the village….

6-7 [at Ohariu].

8 got into the Canoe... and in 2 hours reached Ohaua... and pressed on towards Waiariki.... Two hours travelling brought us to Oteranga... Leaving this village... By Sunset we gained Waiariki, a little village immediately on the shore:

9 started [from Waiariki] for Wellington; by Sunset we gained Te Aro….

10-12 [at Wellington].

13 left [Wellington] for Pitoone, the road a horrid quag! got there by ix.;

14 [at Pitoone].

15 At 1, p.m., I left for Town [Wellington].

16 [at Wellington].

17 At iv, p.m., I left [Wellington],... and reached Pitoone by dark;

18 Walked to Waiẁetu [from Pitoone], a village 2 miles distant... put across the mouth of the Heretaunga [Hutt] River in a canoe... re-launched our canoe, and... gained Parangarahu by ii. p.m… halted at Waimarara, in Palliser Bay. ­

19 resumed our journey. l½ hours to Mukamukanui…. At evening we crossed the Wairarapa lagoon [and] got late to Te Kopi, two hours after dark....

20-23 [at Te Kopi].

24 This morning we left [Te Kopi] at an early hour... continuing our journey, the ground being very wet and miry, we reached Ẁakatomotomo at 2 p.m…. Resuming our journey, we merely gave a passing call to the village of Tauanui, and keeping on reached Tuhitarata, Mr. McMaster’s Station... by Sunset.

25 left [Tuhitarata] at xii. for Otaraia... about 3 miles off.

26 Left this place [Otaraia] at xii., and by iv. p.m. reached Huaangarua.

27-28 [at Huaangarua].

29 struck tent and proceeded up the [Wairarapa] valley... to Te Ahiaruhe, Messrs. Northward & Tiffin’s Station... Leaving Te Ahia. ruhe… we... reached Hurunuiorangi.

30 Proceeding hence [from Hurunuiorangi], in 3 hours we reached Tukuwahine.... Resuming our journey towards the Coast, we travelled till Sunset, when we halted at the entrance of a forest.

31 commenced our journey... up and down over lofty hills [and] entered Ẁareama village shortly after sunset....

1848 June

1 Resuming our journey, and travelling steadily on, by Sunset we reached the Native village at Castle Point, (where is now a Sheep and Cattle Station [Mrs. Guthrie’s],) which we passed by… travelled on... to Ẁakataki, the next little village….

2 proceeded [from Ẁakataki]. In 3 hours we reached Mataikona.

3-5 [at Mataikona].

6 At x. we left [Mataikona]... crossed Owahanga River with difficulty... over the exposed range of high hills... By evening we arrived at Akitio...

7 [at Akitio].

8 started [from Akitio] for Tautane... gained that little village by Sunset;

9 left [Tautane] for Porangahau... dense “bush” to travel through… arrived at Porangahau about an hour after Sunset....

10-11 [at Porangahau].

12 left [Porangahau]... by Sunset we reached Pakoẁai, where we halted.

13 started [from Pakoẁai]... at night we halted at Pauanui….

14 started [from Pauanui] for Manawarakau; reached it by noon… rocks... all the way….

15 left [Manawarakau]... arrived at Waimarama by Sunset....

16 started [from Waimarama], and, travelling smartly, gained the Mission Station [Waitangi] by an hour after Sunset.

17-30 [at Waitangi].

1848 July

1-31 [at Waitangi].



1848 August

1-8 [at Waitangi].

9 At x., a.m., I left the Station in a Canoe... crossed Ahuriri harbour... [thence] over the stony beaches; and by Sunset gained Te Kapemaihi village.

10 At ii., p.m., we started [from Te Kapemaihi] for Tangoio, where we were hospitably received….

11-13 [at Tangoio].

14 Occupied till 3, p.m., when we left [Tangoio]. Gained Te Kapemaihi by Sunset....

15 In the afternoon we left [Te Kapemaihi], and, by Sunset arrived at Te Awatoto...

16 left [Te Awatoto]... walked to the Station [Waitangi]....

17-31 [at Waitangi].

1848 September

1-20 [at Waitangi].

21 This morning at x. I left the Station, and arrived at Kohinurakau by vi. p.m....

22 At 2 p.m. we left [Kohinurakau], and at 5 reached Ngawakatatara... keeping on we reached Patangata by dusk.

23 At noon we left [Patangata]... reached Te Waipukurau by Sunset

24-25 [At Te Waipukurau].

26 At xi. a.m., I left [Te Waipukurau]... by iv. p.m. we reached Patangata.

27 started at a very early hour [from Patangata]. Breakfasted at Ngawakatatara... gained the Station by Sunset....

28-30 [at Waitangi].

1848 October

1-12 [at Waitangi].

13 Left [Waitangi] this morning... by evening gained Te Kapemaihi

14 Left [Te Kapemaihi] at 2, p.m. for Tangoio... arrived there by 4, p.m.

15 [at Tangoio].

16 returned [from Tangoio] to Te Kapemaihi....

17 started [from Te Kapemaihi] for Ẁarerangi where we arrived at 1, p.m.... At 4, p.m., we left. Arriving at Te Poraiti... and, crossing Ahuriri harbour... got home [Waitangi] by 8, p.m....

18-24 [at Waitangi].

25 left the Station [and] reached Waimarama by starlight….

26 Left [Waimarama] at ii, p.m., and reached Manawarakau by dusk.

27 left [Manawarakau]. At v. p.m. we reached Tuingara… went on... to Ouepoto, a small village about 2 miles farther S….

28 started [from Ouepoto]. Four hours walking over the slippery tidal rocks... brought us to Pakoẁai... Thence to Porangahau… in 4 hours...

29 [at Porangahau].

30 started [from Porangahau], and gained Tautane by v. p.m., nearly Sunset... pursued our way and reached Pakuku by starlight.

31 Left Pakuku... 3½ hours toilsome march over the wet rocks brought us to Akitio… recommenced my journey; and by starlight reached Mataikona.

1848 November

1 [at Mataikona].

2 left [Mataikona] early.... In 4 hours we reached Rangiwakaoma; called in passing on Mrs. Guthrie. Hence we travelled on to Waimimiha, a small stream, reaching it by starlight....

3 left Waimimiha. Crossing the Ẁareama creek in a small canoe, in 2 hours we reached the little village of Waipupu... and, resuming our journey... halted at our old sleeping-place in a forsaken potatoe plantation, on the coast between Te Unuunu and Ẁarerangi [sic – Ẁaraurangi]....

4 started very early... and in 2 hours reached Ẁaraurangi... again resumed our journey. By iv, p.m. we reached Pahawa….

5-6 [at Pahawa].

7 left [Pahawa] at 9... At 1 p.m. we reached Te Awaiti... at iii p.m. we proceeded, and by dusk reached Oroi.

8 At noon we left Oroi... By Sunset we reached Cape Palliser where we spent the night.

9 At noon we resumed our journey [from Cape Palliser], and reached Te Kopi by 5 p.m....

10-12 [at Te Kopi].

13 At noon I left Te Kopi... and at 4 p.m. reached Tauanui....

14 proceeded [from Tauanui] up the [Wairarapa] valley. Calling at Mr. McMaster’s Station [Tuhitarata]... At 1 p.m., we reached Otaraia;

15 resumed our journey [from Otaraia], and reached Huaangarua by iii p.m.

16 At xi. a.m., I left Huaangarua, and called on Capt. Smith, & Messrs. Bell & Kemp... Leaving Capt. Smith’s , I proceeded up the valley; called at Te Ahiaruhe, Messrs. Northwood & Tiffin’s Station; and thence to Hurunuiorangi, which village we reached by Sunset.

17 Leaving this place [Hurunuiorangi] I continued my journey.... At iii. p.m. we reached Te Kaikokirikiri village....

18-19 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

20 noon, when we left [Te Kaikokirikiri]. Travelling steadily on we reached the Ruamahanga R. at the head of the valley by Sunset, where we halted.

21 started at a very early hour... and keeping steadily on we cleared the long forest and gained the village [of Te Hawera] by ½ past vi.

22 [at Te Hawera].

23 left [Te Hawera]... reached Ngaawapurua by Sunset...

24 left Ngaawapurua... in 2 small canoes, which were poled all day against the stream.... By evening... we reached Puehutai....

25-26 [at Puehutai].

27 At noon, left [Puehutai] for Patea (by a new route across this, the Southern, end of the Ruahine mountain chain...)... We shaped our course due W., towards the mountains, at ii p.m. entered the forests at their bases... travelled on... in those trackless woods... until it grew dark, when we halted… under a Rata tree.

28 started... by ½ past 9, and... gained the top of the [Ruahine] range by ii. p.m... travelled steadily on till ½ past v, when we could go no further. We travelled during the whole day in one forest;

29 By noon we gained the little isolated village [?]... on the Puhangina river… so we halted here.

30 started at 9, still travelling W. over high and densely wooded hills. By 1. p.m. we descended into the bed of the River Oroua, up which we travelled N. until Sunset. The scenery here, on both sides, is of the most magnificent woodland, with high cliffs of colored earths and stone.



1848 December

1 This morning at viii. we recommenced our journey. Still keeping in the bed of the [Oroua] river, which we continually crossed and recrossed... nearly 200 times...

2 at ix. recommenced our journey. Leaving the bed of the [Oroua] river... we climbed the steep cllffs, and once more travelled W. At vi. p.m. we descended into the Rangitikei River, opposite to a little village called Otara. Crossing the river... we entered the village….

3 [at Otara].

4 by 9 o’Clock, we... started [from Otara, and] gained the top of the steep cliff which overhangs the village kept on until v. p.m., when we halted at a little deserted village called Pounga.... Our course hither was NNE., through the dense forests on the W. bank of the R. Rangitikei;

5 [started at 9 o’Clock and] travelling steadily on... over a trackless country till 4 p.m., when we turned aside to another old potatoe plantation... Tarare... From this place we again descended to the Rangitikei river, on the banks of which we halted…. Our course this day was in a NE. direction.

6 left our bivouack [on the Rangitikei river bank] at ½ past viii. Crossing the river we ascended its mountainous banks, and travelled on, as before, through dense & hilly forests until ½ past xii. we reached the R. Moäwango, which... we crossed easily. Continuing our journey, at iii. we emerged for a short time from the forests, and... entered [Matuku] by iv. pm.

7-11 [at Matuku].

12 at ii. p.m. we left [Matuku]... and by 5 p.m. reached Te Awarua – the 2nd of the Patea villages....

13 started [from Te Awarua]... and travelled steadily from early in the morning till sunset... when we gained Ngaroto (our old Sunday’s encampment,) on nearly the top of the [Ruahine] range....

14 left Ngaroto... and soon gained the summit... travelled steadily on during the whole day till near dark, when we halted in the bed of the R. Makororo, & not far from its mouth.

15 recommenced our march... travelled all day till sunset, when we halted at Kaikoura, a small stream near the Rotoatara Lake.

16 An hour and half this morning took us to the Lake... paddled across [and] soon reached Patangata...

17 [at Patangata].

18 Early this morning we left Patangata. Less than 2 hours took us to Ngawakatatara.... From this place we travelled steadily on until evening, when we reached the Station [Waitangi].

19-31 [at Waitangi].


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