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1851 May

1-11 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

12 left the village [Te Kaikokirikiri]... reached Te Ruataniẁa by ½ past xi. a.m... proceeded. At v. we halted at Te Kotukutuku, on the edge of the river, and entrance to the long forest.

13 resumed our uninviting journey.... Entering the wet forest [which had been burnt)... travelled... until nightfall, when we again... halted in the wood.

14 resumed our journey.... At iii. p.m., we emerged dripping wet from the forest to a potatoe plantation... travelled on to Te Hawera....

15 [at Te Hawera].

16 started [from Te Hawera]… travelled on rapidly... until dusk... obliged to halt... on the banks of the river Mangatainoka.

17 recommenced our journey, and in 2 hours reached Ngaawapurua village....

18-20 [at Ngaawapurua).

21 started in 2 canoes from Ngaawapurua…. By dusk... we gained Puehutai....

22 At 2, p.m., I left Puehutai... halted at the entrance of the forest, in a wet and miserable spot….

23 Crossing an elevated plain.... We travelled steadily on all day, having determined to make Te Ẁiti (The N. end of the forest) our resting-place. This I gained by starlight....

24 recommenced our march [from Te Ẁiti]... and reached Te Waipukurau an hour after dark....

25-26 [at Te Waipukurau].

27 [left Te Waipukurau and arrived] at Ngawakatatara... [and turned aside to] Kohinurakau... reached the village by iii. p.m

28 Left Kohinurakau this morning.... Reached the Mission Station [Waitangi] by 2 p.m., after an absence of 69 days....

29-31 [at Waitangi].

1851 June

1 [at Waitangi].

2 left [Waitangi] at xi... dark long before we reached Petani….

3 [at Petani].

4 left Petani for Tangoio; which place we reached by x. a.m.

5 left Tangoio for Waitangi... reached the Station [Waitangi] by dusk.

6-30 [at Waitangi].

1851 July

1-28 [at Waitangi].

29 left [Waitangi] for Tangoio by a very circuitous path, and reached it….

30 [left Tangoio].... Through hard walking reached [Waitangi] by ix. p.m....

31 [at Waitangi].

1851 August

1 [at Waitangi].

2 At x. a.m... I left [Waitangi] for Waimarama; but... before I had got very far I returned to the Station [Waitangi].

3-5 [at Waitangi].

6 left the Station [Waitangi] for Waimarama, and reached it an hour after dark.

7 [at Waimarama].

8 left [Waimarama] for Kohinurakau, which village I reached by sunset....

9 left [Kohinurakau] for Patangata, which place we reached by starlight.

10 [at Patangata].

11 [left Patangata for] the little village of Ngaẁakatatara....

12 left [Ngaẁakatatara] in canoes for the Station [Waitangi]; ­which... we reached by iv. p.m.

13-31 [at Waitangi].



1851 September

1-26 [at Waitangi].

27 left the Station [Waitangi]... At sunset I reached Petani....

28 [at Petani].

29 left [Petani] for Tangoio;

30 [at Tangoio].



1851 October

1 [at Tangoio].

2 left Tangoio on my return... gained the Station [Waitangi]... an hour after dark.

3-12 [at Waitangi].

13 [left Waitangi] to go by a new route, round the N. end of the Ruahine mountain range... the range... now covered with snow.... Leaving the Station at xi. a.m., we travelled on till sunset, when we halted on the banks of the Ngaruroro river.

14 recommenced our journey; our course being nearly NW… up and down high cliffs, and hills of fern, & through flax swamps, until near sunset [when we] gained a little wood….

15 resumed our journey [over steep hills of heavy tangled fern]... at iii p.m., on reaching the miserable remains of what was a little wooded dell, but now unsightly charred & withered trunks, we halted... in this ruined spot of burnt sticks, one of Flora’s graceful children a fine & lovely Clematis, (apparently a new species,)... displayed its elegant blossoms...

16 Leaving our encampment, we travelled steadily on.... Four hours steady marching brought us to Kuripapango, the end of the Ruahine range, and the place where the Ngaruroro river is finally forded; whence our course is nearly South… the taẁai (fagus) forests, which formerly ornamented several of the nooks and crests of the mountainous hills and cliffs, having been withered and destroyed by fire... [crossed the Ngaruroro river and] resumed our journey – proceeding directly up the steep & mountainous hill which arose abruptly before us [Gentle Annie?]. Having gained the summit [Wakaatamakopiri?] we travelled on over the high ridge, bare & denuded in many places... until sunset… [and halted in] a forest of dead (burnt) trees, in a glen....

17 resumed our journey. Our course today lay over hills and high undulating plains, destitute of fern & grass, but covered with a coarse stunted subalpine vegetation; chiefly composed of huge tufts of the aster-like Celmisia, and several small acerose plants & shrubs of the order Epacridaceæ; with here and there neat little beds of a species of Wahlenbergia, bearing fine yet sportive flowers of both white and blue. In less than 3 hours we reached another river, called Taruarau… crossed this river… commenced ascending the high ridge before us, and... gained the top… our course lay over high barren plains, called, also, Taruarau… covered with a coarse red rushy grass… brought up on a small river, named, Mangohane, an hour before sunset….

18 Climbing another high and steep range... we travelled on to the Rangitikei river, reaching it in less than 3 hours... crossed it... up another steep range of hills, from the summit of the top-most of which we had a distant view of Matuku... travelled steadily on until vi. p.m., when we entered the first forest. Emerging from this, and crossing the plain, we entered the great forest, and descended to the... river, Oturereawa, by viii o’clock… and, by ½ past ix, entered the village of Matuku....

19-24 [at Matuku].

25 About noon we left Matuku... through the forests.... In about 4 hours we reached the Rangitikei river, whose steep cliffy banks we again descended... crossing this river [in a canoe]... we soon reached the little modern village of Te Awarua....

26 [at Te Awarua].

27 Leaving Te Awarua, we toiled... till near sunset, when we halted at an open though sheltered spot on Puke Taramea....

28 resumed our march. By ii p.m. we had gained the highest peak [Teatuaomahuru]... emerged from the forest on to the... banks of the stream [a tributary of the Makororo]... a few minutes before dark ­–

29 resumed our journey… [crossed and recrossed the Makororo river 106 times] till sunset, when I reached our old sleeping place at Matatoto….

30 again moving.... Leaving the R. Waipoua, we shaped our course directly across the great Ruataniẁa plains.... By iii p.m. we had crossed them, and gained the R. Tukituki.... Two hours steady walking brought us to the village [Te Waipukurau].

31 started [from Te Waipukurau at vii], and by xi. reached Patangata... and gaining Ngaẁakatatara... proceeded down the river [Tukituki], paddling on till dusk, when we bivouacked for the night on its banks. ­



1851 November

1 recommenced paddling, and in 3 hours reached the Mission Station [Waitangi].

2-9 [at Waitangi].

10 [left Waitangi] and being aided by our Canoe a good part of the way we reached Tangoio by dusk.

11 At noon we left Tangoio; and by sunset reached Moeangiangi....

12 [at Moeangiangi].

13 started [from Moeangiangi] on our return... halting... at Aropauanui. Arriving at Tangoio... we gained Petani by sunset… put to sea in our small canoe, and... reached the Station [Waitangi] by iv. a.m. on the 14th….

14-30 [at Waitangi].



1851 December

1-12 [at Waitangi].

13 to Ahuriri. By ix. p.m. I reached Tangoio....

14-15 [at Tangoio].

16 At ii p.m. I left [Tangoio]; arriving at Petani….

17 At ii p.m. we left Petani, and at x p.m. reached the Station [Waitangi].

18-26 [at Waitangi].

27 Left the Station [Waitangi] this morning for Waimarama, and reached it soon after Sunset.

28 [at Waimarama].

29 At ii p.m. we left [Waimarama]... halted near the base of the high hill Kahuraanake.

30 again moving, and in a few hours reached Kohinurakau.

31 Leaving Kohinurakau we returned to the Station [Waitangi], which we reached before Sunset.



1852 January

1-9 [at Waitangi].

10 Left the Station for Petani... Arrived late.

11-12 [at Petani].

13 left [Petani]... on my return to the Station... & reached it shortly before midnight.

14-15 [at Waitangi].

16 At iii. p.m., I left the Station... travelled on until after sunset, halting for the night at Herehere, a little stream in the midst of the plains.

17 Early this morning we recommenced our journey. At Waikaha, another stream, we halted.... By noon we reached Ngaẁakatatara... gained [Patangata] by iii p.m.

18 [at Patangata].

19 Leaving Patangata, we hastened to Kohinurakau....

20 left [Kohinurakau] on my return to the Station [Waitangi]… got back by sunset.

21-26 [at Waitangi].

27 [left Waitangi and arrived at Tangoio].

28 Cleft Tangoio and, by dint of hard travelling we... reached [Waikari at 9 p.m.].

29 left [Waikari about noon], on our return... reaching Moeangiangi a little before Sunset....

30 recommenced my journey [from Moeangiangi], halting… at Aropauanui…. Hence to Tangoio... and reached Petani by Sunset.

31 proceeded [by canoe] to the Station [Waitangi], reaching it by nightfall.

1852 February

1-11 [at Waitangi].

12 Left [Waitangi] this morning.... By ii p.m. we reached Omarunui (the nearest village)... travelled on till dusk, when we halted in a forsaken potatoe plantation....

13 started... travelled steadily all day until an hour after sunset.... Our course was chiefly in the bed of the river [Tutaekuri] during which we crossed the main stream 31 times.... On leaving the river, we ascended its steep banks, and journeyed on over some high table land mostly covered with fern...

14 Early this morning we recommenced our march… we soon descended again to the river [Tutaekuri]... breakfast.... Continuing on in the bed of the stream we crossed it 4 times more, when we reached a very romantic spot called Oẁakau, where the rocky cliffs had been rent into ragged chasms... in about 2 hours we hit upon... Paul’s [i.e. Paul Kaiẁata, a chief] track…. From the top of another hill which we surmounted, I perceived [a spot where I supposed water to be thereabouts]... and gained it by sunset.

15 [at the same place].

16 At an early hour this morning we were moving. In less than 3 hours we had surmounted Te Kohurau, (Anglice, The hundred fogs,) a high hill seen from the Mission Station [Waitangi]... up and down steep hills, some very high and difficult... until iii p.m., when I saw far beneath me Te Ngaruroro River and the... ford Kuripapango... [descended through thick scrub].... Our course... was due west... to the [Ngaruroro] river side… crossed to the opposite shore, and... resumed our march… [and reached] the summit.... In 2 hours I reached the spot where I had intended to pass the night.

17 at an early hour we were again travelling... [over] the dreaded trackless upland moors of Taruarau…. By iii. p.m., we had quite entered on the great plains... continued on till sunset.

18 again in marching order. At the little stream of Mangohane... we halted to breakfast... climbed the steep range which rise [sic] almost perpendicularly from the banks of this stream, and pushing steadily on reached the Rangitikei river by ii. p.m… crossed... proceeded, keeping on till near Sunset, when... we agreed to halt….

20 Less than 3 hours travelling this morning took us to Matuku...

20-22 [at Matuku].

23 left Matuku at ii. p.m... to Te Awarua.... We reached it by Sunset....

24 At an early hour this morning left Te Awarua... by my old path over the Ruahine mountain-range. At sunset we halted on Puke Taramea....

25 we started [near noon], and travelled on... till sunset, when we halted at Te Ẁareohinekiri, a sleeping-place a little below the top of the E. side of the range.

26 hastened to pack up and descend… through the forests to the river... made the descent within the 4 hours... travelled on till sunset, as on former journies, in the bed of the river Makororo; halting for the night on the shingle banks in the river not far from its mouth.

27 Early this morning we recommenced our journey... full 4 hours before I got [to Motuowai]... travelled on, over many a weary a mile of hill and plain, till near x. p.m., when we reached Te Aute village....

28 It was nearly noon before we could leave Te Aute. By sunset, however, we had reached Okokoro; and keeping steadily on... we gained the Station [Waitangi] by 3 o’Clock on Sunday morning the 29th. ­

29 [at Waitangi].



1852 March

1-11 [at Waitangi].

12 Left the Station [Waitangi] this morning… [reached] the banks of the little river Ohiwia, 3 miles from the Station... travelled steadily on till near ix. p.m., when we reached the little village of Tauatepopo....

13 left [Tauatepopo] for Te Aute... a pretty long walk hence to Te Waipukurau...

14-15 [at Te Waipukurau].

16 This morning we left Te Waipukurau... travelled steadily on till dusk, when we reached Te Ẁiti, our old sleeping-place at the entrance of the great forest.

17 We recommenced our journey at an early hour this morning, and travelled steadily till sunset when we halted on the banks of the river Tamoki, at a short distance from Puehutai ­–

18 proceeded to Puehutai....

19-21 [at Puehutai].

22 entering a canoe... we poled down the river to Ngaawapurua which village we reached by sunset.

23 [left Ngaawapurua].... Through steady perseverance... reached Te Hawera by sunset....

24 left the village [Te Hawera]…. By sunset we halted in the forest at Teẁanaẁana, one of our old sleeping places.

25 Early this morning we recommenced our journey. Two hours travelling brought us to the river Makakahi... Hence we travelled on to Ruamahanga river, which we also crossed... and... reached Te Kaikokirikiri village by viii. p.m., about 2 hours after dark....

26-29 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

30 From this village [Te Kaikokirikiri] I travelled to Huaangarua….

31 After breakfast I proceeded on [from Huaangarua] to Otaraia... reached the village by sunset.



1852 April

1 From this place [Otaraia] I travelled leisurely down the Wairarapa valley... reached Turanganui... by iv. p.m.

2-5 [at Turanganui].

6 At noon we left [Turanganui]…. At iv. p.m., we reached Te Kopi…. Passing on, I called, (as usual) at Mr. Pharazyn’s; and proceeding thence, halted for the night on the beach by the mouth of a small stream.

7 Resuming our journey at an early hour, we travelled on to Cape Palliser.... At Tuhirangi.... By iv. p.m. we reached Pamateao... entered Oroi village by sunset….

8 leaving [Oroi]…. We travelled on to Te Awaiti, a small village, which we reached by iv. p.m....

9 [at Te Awaiti].

10 left [Te Awaiti] for Pahawa... by iii. p.m. we reached this village....

11-13 [at Pahawa].

14 entered upon our march... and, by noon, reached Ẁaraurangi... From Ẁaraurangi we travelled smartly on over the rocks and beaches, to Te Unuunu. At iv. p.m., we arrived at Araẁata, a little village... and, a little before dark, we reached Te Wakauruhanga, the little village near Te Unuunu....

15 From this village [Te Wakauruhanga] we travelled on to Waipupu... and reached it by sunset.

16 [at Waipupu].

17 up... before the sun... left the village [Waipupu]... By i. p.m., we reached Castle Point... got benighted long before we reached Mataikona.

18-20 [at Mataikona].

21 [left Mataikona]. By sunset we reached Akitio....

22 [In the afternoon] recommenced our journey; halting, at dusk, by the banks of a small river called Waimata.

23 travelled [from Waimata river] to Tautane... did not reach Wangaehu till sunset....

24 This morning we recommenced our journey [from Wangaehu], and in 3 hours reached Porangahau....

25-28 [at Porangahau].

29 Leaving Porangahau... went down the river to its mouth in a small canoe, a winding distance of 4 miles... Landing, and hastening on we soon made Parimahu... and by vii. p.m., we entered Ouepoto...

30 [at Ouepoto].

1852 May

1 left [Ouepoto] for Manawarakau…. Passing by Tuingara.... By dusk we reached Manawarakau….

2-3 [at Manawarakau].

4 left [Manawarakau] for Waimarama. At this village we arrived shortly before sunset.

5 [at Waimarama].

6 left [Waimarama]... and once more arrived safely at the Mission Station [Waitangi], at viii. p.m….

7-31 [at Waitangi].

1852 June

1-4 [at Waitangi].

5 At x this morning I left the Station [Waitangi] for Petani... reached it an hour after sunset....

6 [at Petani].

7 Leaving Petani we went to Tangoio….

8 [at Tangoio].

9 left Tangoio... reached Ahuriri an hour after sunset... and walked to the Station [Waitangi] (6 miles) reaching it by iv. p.m.

10-11 [at Waitangi].

12 left [Waitangi] for Waimarama... reached the village by sunset.

13-14 [at Waimarama].

15 Early this morning we left Waimarama on our return to the Station [Waitangi]; and reached it soon after dark.

16-28 [at Waitangi].

29 left [Waitangi]... crossed the harbour [Ahuriri] to Te Poraiti, whence we proceeded over hills to Ẁarerangi, reaching the village by sunset.

30 [at Ẁarerangi].



1852 July

1 left [Ẁarerangi] for Petani. We arrived there just in time to hold Evening Service...

2 [at Petani].

3 left Petani... reached Te Awatootoo only a short time before sunset....

4 left [Te Awatootoo] for the Station [Waitangi]....

5-7 [at Waitangi].

8 left [Waitangi]... went up the Ngaruroro river in a canoe... poled and paddled till near sunset, when we reached Te Awaateatua, a little village.

9 This morning... we left Te Awaateatua.... Our course was now over hilly ground.... By sunset we reached Tauatepopo....

10 From this village [Tauatepopo] we proceeded leisurely on to Te Aute, by Te Rotoakiwa, reaching it in about 2 hours.

11-12 [at Te Aute].

13 went to Te Rotoakiwa... returning to the village [Te Aute]....

14 returned to Te Rotoakiwa.... Returning to the village [Te Aute]... left for Te Tamumu... reaching Te Tamumu by sunset.

15-19 [at Te Tamumu].

20 left [Te Tamumu] in a canoe for Ngaẁakatatara.... Arriving at Ngaẁakatatara...

21 left [Ngaẁakatatara] for Kohinurakau…. Arriving there….

22 [returned from Kohinurakau] to the Station [Waitangi]; which we reached an hour after sunset.

23-31 [at Waitangi].

1852 August

1-10 [at Waitangi].

11 went to Petani, and arrived there by sunset.

12 In the afternoon I went on to Tangoio [from Petani].

13 [at Tangoio].

14 travelled [from Tangoio] to Petani... Hence we proceeded to the Mission Station [Waitangi], reaching it by viii. p.m.

15 [at Waitangi].

16 In the afternoon... left [Waitangi] for Waimarama, halting for the night at Te Awanga;

17 resumed our journey [from Te Awanga] to Waimarama. Arriving there....

18 left Waimarama for Kohinurakau, reaching it by sunset.

19 [at Kohinurakau].

20 left [Kohinurakau] for Te Tamumu. We arrived there shortly before sunset....

21-22 [at Te Tamumu].

23 left Te Tamumu this morning in a canoe at a very early hour. We landed at Ngaẁakatatara... By ½ past vii we gained the Station [Waitangi].

24 accompanied [Mr. Grace] to Tangoio, reaching it an hour after dark.

25 [at Tangoio].

26 left Tangoio. Arriving at Petani….

27 travelled back [from Petani] to the Mission Station [Waitangi].

28-31 [at Waitangi].

1852 September

1-19 [at Waitangi].

20 left the Station [Waitangi].... By sunset I reached Ngaẁaka­tatara....

21 Leaving Ngaẁakatatara... [reached] Patangata…. Left Patangata.... Returning to Ngaẁakatatara….

22 returning to the Station [Waitangi, from Ngaẁakatatara].

23-30 [at Waitangi].



1852 October

1-31 [at Waitangi].



1852 November

1-4 [at Waitangi].

5 went to Waipureka

6 [left Waitangi for Kohinurakau].

7-8 [at Kohinurakau].

9 left [Kohinurakau] for Waimarama…. Arriving at Waimarama….

10 [at Waimarama].

11 left Waimarama on my return…. Coming by the way of Oporae, (a small village lately formed on the banks of the Ngaruroro River)….

12 returned [from Oporae] to the Station [Waitangi].

13-28 [at Waitangi].

29 Rev. J. Hamlin... arrived... bearing [the Bishop’s] sentence of suspension….



Luzula colensoi
detail of a print by JN Fitch
of a drawing by Matilda Smith
from Cheeseman TF. Illustrations of the New Zealand flora, 1914, Plate 204.

Travels in the later period (1853-1899)66



1854 At Waitangi, Cape Turnagain
1855 At Waitangi
1862

August/September Wellington


1863

August At Napier

October Auckland

December Auckland, Barrier Island


1864

November Auckland


1865

July-September

November Wellington
1882

February67

November 7 Norsewood

December Matamau


1883

April 23 Norsewood

May 1 “'tween 2 bridges”68

August Scinde Island, Napier

September 28 Matamau

October 31 Norsewood

November 6 Norsewood
1884

February Matamau; Whakaruatapu

March Norsewood

April near Matamau

May 6 Matamau – Dannevirke;

29 Norsewood

July 21 no locality

November 3 Mangatawhainui, near Norsewood;

29 Norsewood
1885

January Norsewood

February 1 Norsewood

March 18 Matamau

July Norsewood
1886

March 23 Norsewood

May Norsewood

July 25 Dannevirke

October 26 Norsewood
1887

January Maraekakaho

29 Dannevirke

31 Dannevirke

February 3 Dannevirke

7 Mangatera

8-14 Dannevirke

March 3 Dannevirke

May 6, 12, 22,
26, 30 Dannevirke

July Napier

August 20, 21 Dannevirke

October 29-31 Dannevirke

November 7, 11 Dannevirke

30 Glenross?69


1888

February 2, 3, 7, 9,


10, 11, 13, 24,
25, 27 Dannevirke

March 29 Napier

March 3 “Lost Knife log”, Dannevirke?

April 19, 28 Dannevirke

May 5, 7-9, 12, 31 Dannevirke

October 8, 30-31 Dannevirke

November Dannevirke

December 2-5 Dannevirke

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