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1846 April

1 Left [Ngaawapurua] at ¼ past 9.... At ¼ past 2, p.m., we reached Otawao....

2 started [from Otawao] at 7, travelled to Puehutai, another small village about l½ miles from Otawao.... Resuming our journey, 3 hours travelling brought us to Te Hautotara, another small village, and the last, upon the upper part of the River Manawatu....

3-5 [at Te Hautotara].

6 Left [Te Hautotara] at 8... at 4, p.m., we arrived at the River Mangatawainui which we forded... and, continuing our journey, at 6, p.m., we emerged from the forest at Te Ẁiti….

7 at 10, we started [from Te Ẁiti]. In about an hour we finally cleared the woods. Our course was now over barren plains towards Hawke’s Bay… at 7, p.m., arrived at Te Waipukurau.

8 left [Te Waipukurau] at 10; at 2 reached Patangata... at Sunset arrived at Ngawakatatara...

9 left Ngawakatat ara... arrived at the Mission Station [Waitangi] by half an hour after Sunset. ­

10-20 [at Waitangi].

21 I left the Station [Waitangi] to visit... Tarawera and other villages in the interior, beyond the Ruahine range of mountains.... Started at 11, a.m. At 1, p.m., crossed the harbour of Ahuriri, and... proceeded on... to Te Kapemaihi village, where I arrived by 4….

22 At 7, we left [Te Kapemaihi]... halted at Orarotauira, a small village... Left at 9, Orarotauira.... At 4 p.m., we halted on a small level spot on the banks of the River Kaiwaka... The route is... mostly in the bed of the River Te Waiohingaanga, which we had to cross and recross continually. –

23 At viii started [from the River Kaiwaka]; ascending a steep hill.... At noon we stopped at Te Pohue.... At ii p.m. we resumed our journey. At iv. we gained Titiokura, the pass of the mountain range... [descended] and, in 2 hours, arrived at the banks & ford of a small stream, [Mangaẁata] which ran under a steep cliff.... Here I was carried across, and commenced ascending the opposite hill... crossed the Mohaka. [river], which here runs between deep cliffs.... On the opposite shore... we passed the night.

24 [remained encamped on the banks of the Mohaka].

25 Starting [from the Mohaka River] we travelled 2 hours, up & down steep hills... over high hills and through dense forests…. Two hours steady travelling... brought us to the foot of the high range over which we had so long been toiling; thence, crossing several small rivers... we entered on a plain which was here and there broken up by immense fissures... travelled for 2 long hours more, when we suddenly came upon the little village of Tarawera....

26-28 [at Tarawera].

29 started before ix, a.m., [from Tarawera].... By sunset we arrived at the River Mohaka.... Bivouacked... on its banks.

30 [crossed the river Mohaka on a “Moki (raft) of raupo (typha)”]. We passed over the... pathway above the waterfal1... and travelled on until we halted... at Kaiwaka river.

1846 May

1 Early this morning we left Kaiwaka, and... reached Orarotauira by 1, p.m.... Resuming our journey, we arrived at Ahuriri about an hour after sunset... [crossed the harbour in a canoe and] about 10, p.m., we arrived at the Mission Station [Waitangi]….

2-31 [at Waitangi].

1846 June

1-22 [at Waitangi].

23 This morning left Station [Waitangi], evening arrived at Kohinurakau, –

24 left Kohinurakau, at 2 p.m. arrived at Patangata;

25 Morning, left [Patangata]…. At 2 p.m., arrived at Te Waipukurau....

26-29 [at Te Waipukurau].

30 left the village [Te Waipukurau] at ½ past x. We went down the Tukituki river in a canoe... and at ½ past 1 arrived at Patangata... resumed our paddling, and soon reached Ngawakatatara; where we halted.

1846 July

1 left [Ngawakatatara] early – 7 hours paddling brought us to the Station [Waitangi].

2 [at Waitangi].

3 Left Station [Waitangi]... a short time after Sunset arrived at Te Kapemaihi….

4 resumed my journey [from Te Kapemaihi]. At 2 p.m. arrived at Tangoio....

5-6 [at Tangoio].

7 Started [from Tangoio] at xi, at ii p.m, arrived at the little village of Aropauanui;

8 Left [Aropauanui] at xi. a. m…. and at ½ past 2 reached Tangoio.... Sunset we left for Te Kapemaihi, 2 hours travelling by moonlight brought us thither;

9 [at Te Kapemaihi].

10 [left Te Kapemaihi] in a Canoe, arrived at Station [Waitangi] at vii p.m.

11-31 [at Waitangi].

1846 August

1-17 [at Waitangi].

18 This morning at ½ past x left the Mission Station [Waitangi]... passing the Whaling Station at Putotaranui, a few miles S. of Cape Kidnapper.... Proceeding on, at vii p.m., we arrived at Waimarama….

19 [at Waimarama].

20 At x. we left Waimarama, and at iv. reached Manawarakau;

21 At xii. we left [Manawarakau]: and, after a heavy journey as usual over rocks, &c, to Tuingara, we halted for the night on the beach....

22 Started early this morning, 4 hours walking over tidal rocks brought us to Te Pakoẁai.... Noon, travelled to Porangahau... did not arrive till dark;

23-25 [at Porangahau].

26 Left [Porangahau] at xi. – at ii reached Ẁangaehu.... Left at ½ past iii, and at ¼ past viii arrived at Pakuku....

27 [at Pakuku].

28 at ¼ past x. left this little village [Pakuku]. At ½ past i we gained Akitio [crossing the river]... left at iii, at vi, arrived at Owahanga, here, too... crossing [the river]... continuing our journey we arrived very late at the potatoe plantation, Te Ẁakaraunuiotaẁake , now growing into a village....

29 proceeding onwards, arrived in 3 hours [from Ẁakaraunuiotaẁake] at Mataikona;

30-31 [at Mataikona].

1846 September

1-2 [at Mataikona].

3 at xii, we left [Mataikona].... At 20m. past iii reached Waiorongo... continuing our course, we arrived... at Ẁareama, at ¼ past viii.

4 left [Ẁareama] at viii.... In 2 hours we gained Waipupu... Left at ½ past xi, and at iv reached Kaihoata, a stream of water by which was a deserted hovel.

5-6 [encamped beside the Kaihoata stream]

7 Left [the Kaihoata stream] at ix... at ½ past x gained Te Unuunu.... Resumed our journey at xi.... At iii p.m. we reached Ẁaraurangi... but... passed on... and... brought up just beyond....

8 proceeded on [from beyond Ẁaraurangi] to Pahawa... Four hours’ travelling brought us thither....

9 At xii we left Pahawa, – at iv reached Huariki…. Continuing our course until dusk, we brought up on the beach at Aẁea, a deserted fishing village [having crossed the river Awhea].

10 At viii we resumed our journey [from Aẁea]: 2 hours travelling brought us to Oroi... left at xii, and at vi. p.m., halted near Cape Palliser.

11 Left [the camp near Cape Palliser] at viii a.m. and at noon reached Te Kopi.

12-15 [at Te Kopi].

16 Early this morning we left Te Kopi [proceeding along] the beach in Palliser Bay.... Three hours walking brought us to Ẁakatomotomo, a potatoe plantation.... Hence we travelled to Tauanui.... Proceeding on, 2 hours travelling brought us to Tuhitarata, the Cattle Station of a... Settler... and, resuming my journey, gained Otaraia by Sunset.

17 At ½ past ix we started [from Otaraia], and at i p.m. gained Huaangarua....

18 at ix we proceeded up the valley [from Huaangarua, stopping off at Capt. Smith’s].... I resumed my journey.... About 2, p.m., I reached Te Ahiaruhe, Mr. Northwood’s Sheep station.... went on... to Hurunuiorangi which village we reached by sunset.

19 left this village [Hurunuiorangi]. Four hours steady travelling brought us to Te Kaikokirikiri....

20-22 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

23 left [Te Kaikokirikiri] at ½ past ix. At iii p.m. we halted on the Ruamahanga River... resuming our journey we reached our old sleeping place in the forest by vi….

24 Left at ix – at ii halted.... Resuming our journey at iii... through the devious paths of the forest... but... were obliged to halt.

25 Soon reached the village [Te Hawera]....

26 left [Te Hawera] at vii... and at ½ past ix halted…. At xi we... travelled on... until vi, – forest all the way – when we arrived at Ngaawapurua on the Manawatu River.

27 [at Ngaawapurua].

28 left [Ngaawapurua] at ii p.m., in Canoes, poling against the stream... at v… once more took to the forests, and at vii. arrived at Otawao....

29 started [from Otawao] at viii. Crossing the R. Manawatu on a Native’s shoulders... arrived at Puehutai at x....

30 xi. when we left [Puehutai], and in 2½ hours arrived at Te Hautotara village....



1846 October

1 [at Te Hautotara].

2 At vii this morning we started… and at ½ past vi. emerged from the woods… at… Te Ẁiti.

3 left Te Ẁiti at ix. and at ½ past vi. reached Te Waipukurau: –

4 [at Te Waipukurau].

5 started [from Te Waipukurau] at xi. – at ½ past iii reached Patangata.

6 travelled [from Patangata]... to Kohinurakau, about 5 hours walk.

7 leaving [Kohinurakau] at ix. we arrived at iii at the Mission Station [Waitangi].

8-31 [at Waitangi].

1846 November

1-20 [at Waitangi].

21 This morning left Station [Waitangi], at 5 p.m. arrived at Te Kapemaihi.

22-24 [at Te Kapemaihi].

25 left [Te Kapemaihi] for Tangoio – 2 hours travelling brought us thither and 4 hours further took us to Aropauanui....

26 [at Aropauanui].

27 left [Aropauanui]... at ii reached Tangoio...

28-29 [at Tangoio].

30 at ½ past v. p.m., left [Tangoio] – at ½ pt. ix. Ahuriri –

1846 December

1 Started [from Ahuriri] at v., at viii. reached the Station [Waitangi]: –

­2-31 [at Waitangi].

1847 January

1-5 [at Waitangi].

6 Left [Waitangi] at 10... At 6, p.m., we arrived at Kohinurakau....

7 [at Kohinurakau].

8 At noon we left [Kohinurakau]... in 3 hours we gained Ngawakatatara….

9 left [Ngawakatatara] early…. Two hours took us to Patangata... at noon we left Patangata, and at 5 arrived at Te Waipukurau.

10-11 [At Te Waipukurau].

12 left this village [Te Waipukurau at noon]: and, at 4 p.m., arrived at Te Rotoatara….

13 left [Te Rotoatara] and at noon, reached Patangata.

14 At a very early hour... we started [from Patangata]…travelled 2½ hours…. Thence 6 hours... a dreadfully hot day ­– a party, too, having lately set fire to the “bush”... got… to Manawarakau....

15 At 1, p.m. we left [Manawarakau], and in 5 hours reached Waimarama;

16 left [Waimarama] at 10, a.m., and at 8, p.m., gained the Station [Waitangi].

17-31 [at Waitangi].

1847 February

1-8 [at Waitangi].

Botanical and other matters of the second and successful attempt on the Ruahine mountains (February 9 to March 3) are given in Colenso (1884, 29-72). Some annotations are taken from that work.

9 At 10 a.m. I left the Station; at noon reached Ahuriri harbour.... At 6 p.m. we arrived at Orarotauira, a small village on Te Waiohingaanga river….

10 started at 8 [from Orarotauira]…. Near Sunset we halted at Wahianoa, a spot on the hills where there was water.

11 At 7 we started [from Wahianoa]... crossed Titiokura the highest crest in the afternoon, and gladly descended towards the R. Mohaka. Crossing the fearful pass “Mangaẁata” in safety, we arrived at Mimiha by Sunset.

12 started [from Mimiha] descending the steep cliffs of the Mohaka River... and... gained Tarawera [Pirapirau]... feet very very sore with the hot and deep broken pumice, which in this district abounds.

13-14 [at Tarawera].

15 started at 6. At viii. halted by the side of a stream [Opitonui]…. At 9 we resumed our journey, when our misery commenced – no track, – steep hills – over which the fires of the Natives had recently swept leaving nothing but charred sticks and ashes and prostrate trees [called at Moturoa].... At iii, p.m. we gained the edge of Taupo plains... [crossed] the great plain... [passing... the head of the Rangitaiki River...] gaining Ohineriu... about an hour after dark;

16 started [from Ohineriu], at 6. Travelled 3 hours, when we halted... near the head of the R. Mohaka... [breakfasted at Te Kotipu]... at noon, crossed Wai Haruru, a stream which suddenly disappears through a dark & awful chasm... the country around has a most desolate appearance, and is covered with volcanic remains... reached Orona, a village on the shores of Taupo lake about Sunset – ­

17 started [from Orona] at x, a. m… an hour and a half took us to Motutere, the next village, prettily situated on the immediate shores of the lake [reaching it at 1:30]... at 2 p.m. we left Motutere, and at 5 reached Waimarino, (another village, also on the shore of the lake)…. An hour after dark we halted on the banks of Te Waikato R. [= Tongariro R.].

18 started at 8 a. m… left the immense lake of Taupo, & made for Tongariro mountain... reached Rotoaira at ½ past 3….

19 [left Rotoaira]... and crossed the head of the Waikato R., which here has its rise, being the outlet of Rotoaira lake.... At 4 p.m. we crossed Te Onetapu, a desolate arid plain of volcanic sand, about 2 miles wide, on which nothing whatever grew... on the edges of this solitary & fearful-looking spot, a lovely & fine Gentian (G. bellidifolia, Hook.,) flourished... rain... obliged us to keep on. At last we halted at 7 p.m. by the side of a small wood in a deep gulley... not a scrap of fern or brush could we find to form a bed with....

20 a dirty lowering morning with furious wind... concluded to remain in our present uncomfortable situation….

21 LORD’S day [remained in same spot].

22 started this morning at 6, frost very heavy [found Logania depressa]... At ½ past 9 we reached the R. Moeaẁango… hence, on, on, on… up & down steep hills, – [ate] some berries of a species of Gaultheria... travelled on until 2 hours after Sunset, when we... found a few Kouka trees, (Cordyline australis), the soft branches of which we roasted & devoured.

23 At 6 we started, and in 2 hours were welcomed into a little village containing only 2 huts... and proceeded on to Matuku... about 3 miles distant....

24 At noon left Matuku, and travelled until a half-hour after Sunset, when we halted by the side of a small wood…. The Rangitikei R., which we crossed runs in a valley or deep chasm, bounded on either side by perpendicular cliffs upwards of 200 feet in height, down which fearful precipice I was obliged to come, by a winding path among the bushes, assisted in several places by the Natives, and holding on by long vines & flax leaves, which they had tied together to assist them in their descent. The last 2 hours of our journey this day was most disagreeable, being up the bed of a mountain stream, now wading through the water, now crawling on all-fours under uprooted trees which the winter torrent had thrown across the river, or through thorny bushes, and over slippery stones.

25 resumed our journey towards Ahuriri, between which and us stood the great mountain range of Ruahine... our course lay up a very steep and high hill, which... we surmounted... continued our journey – up & down high and densely wooded hills which were very precipitous... till after Sunset, when we were obliged to halt in the midst of an ancient Beech forest not very far from the summit…. The Beech trees here on the exposed heights are of very curious growth, gnarled, stunted, & almost branchless.

26 recommenced our journey before 6 o’clock... a long and miserable scrambling of some miles up the mountain, not through but over trees & bushes, between which there was no passing. In 4 hours... we gained Te Atuaomahuru, one of the principal peaks of the range... concluded... to proceed on to Te Waiokongenge, a place half-way down the range... resumed our journey, and at 5, p.m., gained the bed of the river Makororo... travelled on... till 7 p.m., when we halted on its banks.

27 travelled on... all day in the bed of the river [Makororo]... entered on Te Ruataniẁa plain; where we halted about 1½ hours after Sunset….

28 LORD’s-day [at same spot on Ruataniẁa plain].



1847 March

1 Left at vi; at xi gained the embouchure of the river [Makaroro?] and the road to Te Waipukurau... proceeded to the village...

2 At 11 a.m. we started [from Te Waipukurau] for Patangata, where we arrived at ½ past 6.

3 started early [from Patangata] for the Mission Station [Waitangi]....

4-23 [at Waitangi].

24 At x , a. m… left the Station [Waitangi], and arrived at Ngawakatatara by vi p.m....

25 [left Ngawakatatara and] proceeded to Patangata.... At 1, p.m., we left for Te Waipukurau.... Arrived there at Sunset....

26 Early this morning we left [Te Waipukurau] and by Sunset gained... Te Ẁiti wood

27 Started early [from Te Ẁiti]... At vi. we reached Te Hautotara village... only one immense forest all the way.

28 [at Te Hautotara].

29 at 2, p.m., left [Te Hautotara] for Puehutai, the next village which place we gained by ½ past 4....

30-31 [at Puehutai].



1847 April

1 left [Puehutai] at 10, a. m… in several small Canoes.... In a few hours... we landed... at Ngaawapurua.

2 [at Ngaawapurua].

3 at 10... we started [from Ngaawapurua]... travelled without stopping... At 8, p.m., we got to Te Hawera. ­

4-5 [at Te Hawera].

6 at 10, a.m., we left Te Hawera... halted at night in the forest.

7 started early ... stopped... on the banks of the R. Ruamahanga and, resuming our journey, by Sunset reached a hut in a plantation....

8 [left the plantation and proceeded] to Te Kaikokirikiri village... which place we reached by 1, p.m….

9-11 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

12 started at x, [from Te Kaikokirikiri].... At 3, p.m., we reached Hurunuiorangi.... Went on... to Te Ahiaruhe which place we reached shortly after dusk... invited to spend the night with Mr. and Mrs. Northwood & Mr. Tiffin.

13 left Mr. Northwood’s at x. a.m. At ii, p.m., I reached Capt. Smith’s... proceeded on to Huaangarua...

14 left [Huaangarua] at noon. 4½ hours’ travelling took us to Otaraia....

15 left Otaraia, halting at xi. a.m., in a potatoe plantation at Tauanui… resumed our journey, & by Sunset reached Te Kopi...

16-18 [at Te Kopi].

19 started [from Te Kopi] at x ... at iv, p.m., we reached Muka­mukanui, a small village on the rocks, near the SW. headland of Palliser Bay... travelled on... till near dark... over the rocks, halted by Waimarara, a little stream….

20 sta. rted [from Waimarara stream], and in 3 hours arrived at Orongorongo... at x., we resumed our journey... and... arrived... at Pitoone....

21 walked to Wellington. ­

22 [at Wellington].

23 walked to Pitoone....

24-25 [at Pitoone].

26 returned to Wellington...

27 at 6, p.m., left Wellington; at 8 I gained Pitoone....

28 left Pitoone in a Canoe... after about 2 hours paddling [arrived] at Okiwi... [proceeded by] the overland walk, hilly and rough.... At ii, p.m., I gained Parangarahu... and pressing onwards... gained Mukamukanui by a quarter of an hour after Sunset...

29 resumed our journey [from Mukamukanui], and by Sunset arrived at Te Kopi....

30 [at Te Kopi].

1847 May

1-3 [at Te Kopi].

4 left Te Kopi; travelled on by coast for 2 hours (calling on Mr. Pharazyn by the way).... About noon we passed a herd of wild Cattle (upwards of 40) near Cape Palliser... halted... under the cliffs of Waitutuma, a small stream.

5 started early [from Waitutuma stream]: in 2 hours we arrived at Kuraẁaẁanui, Mr. Barton’s Sheep Station... travelling hence, in 2 hours we gained Oroi….

6 left Oroi, and travelling steadily in 4 hours reached Huariki.... By evening arrived at Pahawa….

7-9 [at Pahawa].

10 at noon left [Pahawa]…. At 4, p.m., we reached Ẁaraurangi.... Travelled smartly on until after Sunset, when we halted on the beach by a brook near Te Unuunu....

11 started at a very early hour, in order to get past those high and perpendicular Cliffs... about 5 miles ahead, ere the tide made, and by hard travelling just succeeded... at iii we gained the little village of Waipupu... continuing our journey... reached Ẁareama at Sunset….

12 At 12 o’Clock we started [from Ẁareama]... and at dusk halted at Castle Point....

13 left this place [Castle Point] at xi. a.m., and at iii. p.m., reached Mataikona....

14-17 [at Mataikona].

18 left [Mataikona]…. Arriving at the R. Owahanga, we crossed.... By Sunset we gained Akitio;

19 resumed our journey [from Akitio].... Four hours... walking through mud & over slippery tidal rocks, brought us to Pakuku.

20 started [from Pakuku]... [5 hours’] exertion brought us to Ẁangaehu (a little fishing village near Cape Turnagain...).... Resuming our journey... through the watery swamps... 3 hours after Sunset arrived at Porangahau.

21-23 [at Porangahau].

24 At noon we started [from Porangahau, through] the long swamp... [and] over the sandy beach…. Towards Sunset we reached Te Pakoẁai, a small village...

25 left Te Pakoẁai, and travelled steadily on till near Sunset, when, finding some deserted sheds on the shore... we halted....

26 travelled for 4 long hours over the tidal rocks... reached Manawarakau….

27 started [from Manawarakau]... about Sunset we reached Waimarama.

28 At x. we started [from Waimarama]… At vii. we reached Tukituki village... [took] a Canoe... at ix. we landed once more at the Mission Station [Waitangi]….

29-31 [at Waitangi].

1847 June

1-11 [at Waitangi].

12 left the Station [Waitangi] this morning at xi. and at i. arrived at Ahuriri... crossing the harbour I landed at Mr. Alexander’s trading Station [Onepoto]... proceeding.... At vii. p.m., we reached Te Kapemaihi village….

13-14 [at Te Kapemaihi].

15 started [from Te Kapemaihi]. In 2 hours we reached Tangoio….

16 started [from Tangoio over] the heights... In less than 4 hours we reached Aropauanui….

17 [at Aropauanui].

18 At xi. we left [Aropauanui] travelling leisurely over the high hills... we reached Tangoio by iv.

19-20 [at Tangoio].

21 At noon we left [Tangoio]; and at Sunset crossed the inner waters of Ahuriri harbour in a little Canoe. An hours waddling through mud and water brought us to Warerangi, an old and long-deserted village…

22 [at Warerangi]

23 left [Warerangi]. A short 2 miles took us to Te Poraiti, (another village… on the inner shores of the harbour)… recrossing the Ahuriri harbour in a canoe [to Mr Alexander’s]… At 4 p.m., I left Mr. Alexander’s; again recrossed the harbour in a Canoe, and at 6 got safely home…

24-30 [at Waitangi]

1847 July

1-31 [at Waitangi].



1847 August

1-26 [at Waitangi].

27 This morning at ½ past x. we left [Waitangi].... At Sunset we reached Te Kapemaihi village....

28 [left Te Kapemaihi]... soon reached Ngamoerangi.... At Sunset we gained Tangoio....

29 [at Tangoio].

30 At 2, p.m. we left [Tangoio] for Aropauanui... arrived at dusk….

31 At ii. p.m., we left [Aropauanui] on our return, and at Sunset reached Tangoio;

1847 September

1 left [Tangoio] at Sunrise. Called at Ngamoerangi…. At 9, a.m., we reached Te Kapemaihi.... At ii, p.m., we left this village and at v., p.m., reached Ahuriri... crossed Ahuriri in the dark... and, after a long and fatiguing walk... got safely to the Station [Waitangi] by 9 o’Clock.

2-8 [at Waitangi].

9 This morning at x. we left the Station [Waitangi]; ... By evening we reached Kohinurakau....

10 At xi., a.m., we left [Kohinurakau]; at ii, p.m., reached Ngawakatatara.... Having dined, we left.... At dusk we reached Patangata....

11 Left this village [Patangata] at ii. p.m.... By evening we reached Te Waipukurau village....

12 [at Te Waipukurau].

13 left this village [Te Waipukurau] at ii. p.m., & by Sunset gained the village on the little islet in the lake Te Rotoatara.

14 [at Te Rotoatara].

15 crossed [from the islet in lake Te Rotoatara].... Travelled on to Raukawa, which place we reached by Sunset; our course being by a very disagreeable route – deep marshes, and up & down high and steep hills.

16 left this place [Ruakawa]... obliged... in consequence of the late rains, to leave the low grounds... and take to the hills – through fern and “scrub”. We were also obliged to cross the R. Ngaruroro high up (where it separates into 8-10 streams...) reaching the Station [Waitangi] by x. p.m.

17-30 [at Waitangi].


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