Colenso’s collections

10-28 Farewell visit to Whangarei: [Letter to Dandeson Coates 19 Nov 1844]

13 I left the Bay of Islands in the “Nimrod” Brig for… Hawke’s Bay.

15 Anchored… In Auckland harbour.

22 we weighed and sailed.

24 Anchored again in Poverty Bay….

27-28 Obliged to heave-to in Hawke’s Bay….

29 At 3 p.m. arrived and anchored off Ahuriri.

30 sailed about 10 miles E. towards Cape Kidnapper, anchoring about 3 miles from land… landed [at what was to become Waitangi].

31 [at Waitangi].

1845 January

1-16 [at Waitangi].

17 At 11 a.m., left [Waitangi] in a canoe, for Ngamoerangi… called at Ahuriri… [reached] Te Kapemaehe [at] ½ past 8 p.m.

18 started [from Te Kapemaehe] for Ngamoerangi: – an hour’s walking brought us thither.

19 [at Ngamoerangi].

20 Before Sunrise we left Ngamoerangi, and arrived at Ahuriri by ½ past 10 a. m… left Ahuriri in our Canoe for the Station [Waitangi] which we reached about Sunset.

21-31 [at Waitangi].

1845 February

1-3 [at Waitangi]. [Botanical and other details of the first attempt to cross the Ruahine Mountains (Feb. 4-13) are given in Colenso 1884, 1-28].

4 I left [Waitangi] for Patea at 8… at 20m. past 12 reached Okokoro, a small village… by ½ past 4 we arrived at Te Taheke, another small village… and, continuing our journey, I gained Te Rotoatara Lake by 8 p.m….

5 [left Te Rotoatara] at ½ past 11 a. m… travelled on, rather slowly, until 6 p.m., when we halted for the night at Mangaonuku, a small river on the edge of the great plain Te Ruataniẁa,

6 [at Mangaonuku River].

7 started [from Mangaonuku River] at 9 a.m., directly across the great plain [Te Ruataniẁa] and then up the stony bed of the River Waipaoa, this river we waded with difficulty several times... At 3 p.m. we arrived at the junction of this river with the R. Makororo, the former coming from the S., when we proceeded up the stony bed of the latter until ½ past 5, when we halted for the night in the bed of the river at Oparua.

8 Early this morning we recommenced our journey [from Oparua] and, at 3 p.m., arrived at the base of the immediate mountain range [Ruahine]... we commenced the ascent through the woods , and continued... until 6 p.m., when... halted in the dense forest.

9 [on the Ruahine Range].

10 gained the top [of the Ruahine Range, passing] over two of the worst of the “passes” [and returned to campsite].

11 commenced our journey back to the Station... at 7 p.m., we halted for the night at Motuowai, a small wood on the back of the river Waipaoa, and on the SW. edge of Te Ruataniẁa plain... 104 times did we wade in this day’s march across the main stream!

12 we resumed our Journey [from Motuowai] and at 1 p.m., reached the banks of Te Rotoatara Lake... crossing to the Island [by canoe] we slept there.

13 Starting early... we arrived at 8 p.m. at the Station [Waitangi]....

14-28 [at Waitangi].

1845 March

1 At 9, a.m., left the Station [Waitangi] by the inland route for Waimarama: – an hour’s walking brought us to Tanenuiarangi, a small village... Proceeding hence, at 2 p.m., we arrived at the Tukituki river... Resuming our journey, at 5 p.m. we descended to the beach, a few miles S. of Cape Kidnapper... we arrived at 8 p.m., at Waimarama.

2-3 [at Waimarama].

4 I left [Waimarama] for Manawarakau.... Towards evening I arrived at Manawarakau...

5 [at Manawarakau].

6 Started [from Manawarakau] this morning at 6... cleared the rocks and stones by 10; halted... at ¼ past 10 at a small stream a little beyond Pauanui. (“Black Head” of the Chart) [sic].... At 1 p.m. we again started and at ¼ past 5 arrived at Parimahu (“The 2 teeth” of Chart);

7 at 10 we started [from Parimahu]; ... over a long sandy beach of several miles in length... At 3 p.m., we arrived at Kariawa, the pa….

8-9 [at Kariawa].

10 left [Kariawa] before 6, arrived at Wangaihu, a little village near Te Poroporo (Cape Turnagain of Cook) by ½ past 8.... Hence 3 hours travelling... to Tautane... Proceeded on over a long sandy beach, about 4 miles... to Pakuku, a small village... where we halted for the night.

11 started [from Pakuku]... halted at Ẁakaraunuiotaẁaki

12 This morning we proceeded [from Ẁakaraunuiotaẁaki) to Mataikona and arrived there at ½ past 10.

13 At 20m. past 2 p.m. we left this place [Mataikona], hungry, and at 10m. past 5 arrived at Waiorongo, a fishing village... & halted for the night.

14 Left [Waiorongo]... at 7 passed “Deliverance Cove”... at 8 arrived at Te Koau, a little place of fresh water... Resuming our journey we travelled on by the Coast about 5 miles to Oruhi, a small fishing village... we passed on 3 miles further to Waipupu, another small village... we proceeded and continued travelling until some time after sunset… we halted for the night in a little shed under a tree [by a marshy pool].

15 Left... at Sunrise, and travelled on 2 hours to Kaihoata, a small stream…. From Kaihoata we travelled 4½ hours to Ẁaraurangi....

16-17 [at Ẁaraurangi] at 7, arrived at Pahawa, a small village on the banks of a river of the same name by ½ past 10... left at noon... At 4 p.m., we arrived at Huariki, a nice little village sheltered with stunted trees, (the whole of this Coast, from Hawke’s Bay to Port Nicholson, is very destitute of vegetation of any size, possessing a desolate appearance)....

19 Started [from Huariki] this morning at 20m. past 6, and arrived at Oroi, a small village yet larger than Huariki by 10.... At noon we left Oroi, and in 2 hours, arrived at Mr. Barton’s Sheep station at Kuraẁaẁanui... Continuing my journey I arrived at Cape Palliser by Sunset.... Bivouacked among the rocks.

20 Resuming our journey [from Cape Palliser]... for 5 hours when we arrived at Te Kopi – a large village in Wairarapa, or Palliser, Bay.

21-23 [at Te Kopi].

24 Left [Te Kopi] this morning at ½ past 7, two hours travelling brought us to Okorewa , a small fishing village at the mouth of Wairarapa River.... At ½ past 11 we left this place, and at 7 p.m. arrived at Orongorongo. (a small village in Cook’s Straits…)... over loose sand and broken rock the whole way.

25 Started [from Orongorongo] early this morning an hour’s travelling brought us to Parangarahu, a nice little fishing village belonging to the Ngatiawa tribe, just outside the N. head of Port Nicholson.... Then started for Port Nicholson... and... arrived at Pitoone at 5 p.m., where... I brought up for the night.

26 Left [Pitoone] for Wellington –about 6 miles distant;

27-20 [at Wellington].

30 At 3 p.m. left [Wellington] for Pitoone, where I arrived at 5...

31 [At] 10 o’clock I left [Pitoone] in a Canoe... and at 3 p.m. arrived at Parangarahu....

1 left this place [Parangarahu] at ½ past 8…. At 1 p.m. we arrived at the cliffs... continued travelling until sunset, when we arrived at Okorewa...

2 Early this morning I went [from Okorewa] to Te Upokokirikiri ­a village a mile inland on the shore of the Wairarapa lagoon.... Returned to Okorewa and thence to Te Kopi....

3 At ½ past 10 I left Te Kopi. Travelled about 2 miles by beach, then climbing of Maramatitaha, a high precipitous & very danger­ous cliff, we struck inland, travelling in a Northerly direction. Passing by Omoekau, a small village... and arriving at the River Turanganui, we travelled on in its stony bed for about 3 miles, and about 1 p.m. reached Parikarangaranga, a small village…. Left at ½ past 2, and continued travelling up the Wairarapa valley, which is level and grassy, until after sunset when we halted by a small wood (Otuẁareana).

4 Left our halting place [Otuẁareana] at ½ past 6 a.m.; a short 2 miles brought us to Otaraia, a native village…. Resumed our journey at ¼ to 9, and at 12 arrived at Huaangarua, a small village on a stream of the same name, which runs NW. into the river Ruamahanga, a river close by navigable for canoes and boats to Okorewa in Palliser Bay... we left, at 1 p.m., and at 5, halted at Te Ahiaruhe....

5 Started this morning [from Te Ariaruhe] at ½ past 6; at ¼ to 8 crossed the River Ruamahanga and travelled on to the end of the stony plain.... Left this place at 10, still travelling a northerly course, and at 2 p.m. arrived at Te Kaikokirikiri, a village on the N. bank of the Ruamahanga R.

6-8 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

9 At... ½ past 6 – I left [Te Kaikokirikiri, crossing Ruamahanga River in a canoe]... an hour’s smart travelling in an ESE. direction brought us to Tukuwahine, (a village about 3 miles from Te Kaikokirikiri).... Left Tukuwahine at a ¼ past 9, and travelled in a NE. direction until ½ past 4 p.m., when we brought up for the night.... Our journey... was mostly up & down over high hills through a densely wooded country...

10 At 7 this morning we resumed our journey, proceeding over high and dry ridges until 10, when [we descended] to a swamp… left at ¼ before 12; Course as of yesterday N.E., over a very barren and hilly country.... At ½ past 2 we arrived at Wareama, a little village on a small R. of the same name... proceeded. Our route was now very hilly with no water... pushed on... for several miles – up and down steep and desert hills to the seashore – reaching a small grove of dwarf Karaka trees... at ½ past 4.... Halted here for the night. [Bagnall &Petersen (p. 217) equate this stopping place with Upokohutia].

11 at 7… we left, and at ½ past 11, arrived at Ẁakataki... resumed our journey, and, towards evening arrived at Mataikona.

12-14 [at Mataikona].

15 Left Mataikona early.... Two hour’s travelling brought us to Ẁakaraunuiotaẁake.... Resuming our journey towards evening we arrived at Akitio.

16 Leaving Akitio this morning at 7, we arrived at Pakuku by 10.... We left at noon... at 5 p.m. we arrived at Wangaihu.

17 Starting from Wangaihu at 8, we arrived at Porangahau by 11 a. m….

18-20 [at Porangahau].

21 We left Porangahau this morning at a ¼ to 7, proceeding on a NNW. course into the interior; at 9 we arrived at a small watercourse…. Resuming our journey at ½ past 10, we gained the top of Pukekura (a hill) by ½ past 4 p.m., thence, travelling in a NNE. direction over dry plains until dark….

22 Early this morning we recommenced our journey. Two hours and half of smart walking brought us to Te Waipukurau....

23 we left [Te Waipukurau] at 10m. past 8, and, travelling over dry plains, reached Patangata, a village... by 1 p.m.

24 Left [Patangata] this morning before sunrise.... An hour and half’s travelling, in the stony bed of the River Tukituki, brought us to Ngaẁakatatara, a small romantically situated village.... Resuming our journey at ½ past 9, and travelling steadily on we arrived... at the Mission Station [Waitangi] by ½ past 5....

25-30 [at Waitangi].

1-31 [at Waitangi].

1-11 [at Waitangi].

12 Left home [Waitangi] to visit the villages on the inner shores of the Bay.

15 at Tangoio….

16-18 Visited Te Kapemaihi and Te Poraiti villages….

19 Returned to station [Waitangi].

20-31 [at W aitangi].

1845 July

1-23 [at Waitangi].

24 Left Station [Waitangi] for Turanga [Mrs Co1enso pregnant]…. Travelled... to Tangoio where we arrived by starlight.

25 From Tangoio to Moeangiangi, a watercourse, where we halted.

26 Thence [Moeangiangi] to Waikari, a small village, where... we remained.

27 At Waikari....

28 Travelled [from Waikari] but a short distance... the country being very broken and hilly....

29 arrived at the River Mohaka.

30 Travelling on [from Mohaka]... we arrived... at Poututu, a small village by Sunset.

31 From Poututu to Wairoa... over a sandy beach.

1 At Rev. J. Hamlin’s [Wairoa] resting.

2 Left [Wairoa]; evening, at Te Ẁakaki, a small village.

3. [at Te Ẁakaki].

4 Resumed our journey [from Te Ẁakaki]... halted in a dense wood.

5 Again resumed our journey , halted in the same forest.

6 Starting early and travelling steadily, we arrived at Archd. W. W. ’s [William Williams, Whakato, Turanga]... home by 8 p.m.,

7-9 at Poverty Bay [Turanga] resting.

10 [-12] [at Turanga].

13 I left Turanga... on my return to my Station.

[16 arrived at Poututu].

17 at Waihua, a small village a few miles S. of Poututu....

21 arrived at my Station [Waitangi].

22-31 [at Waitangi].

1-11 [at Waitangi].

12 Travelled inland [from Waitangi] to Kohinurakau, arrived there at 5 p.m.

13-19 [at Kohinurakau].

20 Walked [from Kohinurakau] to Patangata….

22-25 Employed in visiting different villages... arrived at Station [Waitangi... on] the night of the the 25^th... the 23^rd… at Te Rotoatara...

26-30 [at Waitangi].

1845 October

1-17 [at Waitangi].

18 This morning at 9 I left the Station [Waitangi].... evening at 5, we arrived at Kohinurakau

19 [at Kohinurakau].

20 Early this morning we left [Kohinurakau] for Ngawakatatara arriving there at ½ past 8... thence to Patangata…. Proceeding we gained Te Waipukurau by Sunset....

21 we left [Te Waipukurau] at 1, p.m., – arrived at Te Motu o Taraia, a potatoe plantation in a forest by evening....

22 we continued on our journey [from Te Motu o Taraia], and by Sunset arrived at Porangahau....

23 [at Porangahau].

24 we left Porangahau, and travelling on to Wangaehu.... Thence to Pakuku....

25 Early this morning we left Pakuku, and by sunset gained Mataikona....

26-28 [at Mataikona].

29 Started this morning [from Mataikona] on our journey; arrived, at evening at Ẁareama....

30 Left this place [Ẁareama] at xi a.m. Halted at v. p.m., at the entrance of a wood near Kahumingi....

31 Left [the wood near Kahumingi] at an early hour... and, resuming our journey arrived at Tukuwahine by 2 p.m... and, continuing our course, arrived at Te Kaikokirikiri by 5, p.m.

1-3 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

4 Left [Te Kaikokirikiri] this morning at 6... and arrived at Huaangarua by ¼ past 6, p.m.

5 Left [Huaangarua] at 1, p.m.... At 5 we arrived at Otaraia, a village....

6 Left [Otaraia] this morning at 6: l½ hours to Paharakeke, a small wood... Thence to Tauanui, 2 hours... [hence] we continued our journey [four hours steady travelling] to Te Kopi, descending by the... cliffs into Palliser Bay.

7-9 [at Te Kopi].

10 Early this morning I left [Te Kopi] for Port Nicholson. Travelled for 4 hours over the heavy sandy beach of Palliser Bay... [passed] round the steep rocky headlands which jutted out into the sea... and travelled for 3 hours to Orongorongo, a small village....

11 This morning we started early [from OrongorongoJ, and in less than 2 hours were at Parangarahu... went in one of their large canoes to Pitoone in Port Nicholson harbour... [and] proceeded to Wellington.

12 [at Wellington]

13 [from Wellington] I returned to Pitoone...

14-16 [at Pitoone].

17 left [Pitoone] early... and at iii p.m. we arrived at Parangarahu...

18 Left Parangarahu at ½ past vi, travelled nearly 4 hours… resumed our journey and arrived at Te Kopi by vii p.m.

19-20 [at Te Kopi].

21 Left [Te Kopi] this morning at vi at 20m. past viii we halted.... Resuming our journey we rounded Cape Palliser at noon and reached Oroi by ½ past v.

22 left [Oroi] at ½ past 10, and at 1, p.m. arrived at Hauriki, a small village... passed on. At ½ past vi arrived at Pahawa, another small village....

23 [at Pahawa].

24 Left Pahawa at 20m. past vi, and, at 40m. p. viii halted in rain under a peculiarly cragged rock called Tokaroa... continued our course... for 3 miles to Ẁaraurangi.... Left this place at iv p.m., and travelled... for 2 hours, when we brought up... by the side of a small lagoon.

25 left this place, and... arrived at iv p.m. at Ẁareama.

26 Left Ẁareama this morning at ¼ past vi, and... reached Upokohutia (a small clump of Karaka trees where was water) by viii…. From Upokohutia to Waiorongo (the small fishing village near Castle Point) occupied us 2 hours… proceeded on... [and] gained Mataikona... in 4 hours from Waiorongo….

27 [at Mataikona].

28 started [from Mataikona] at ix, a.m. At xii we crossed the Owahanga River in a little cockleshel1 of a canoe…. At iii p.m., we reached Akitio….

29 Left this village [Akitio] at vi, a. m…. At ½ past 9 we reached Pakuku.... At ½ past 10 we left Pakuku, and at 3 p.m. descended to Wangaehu, a small village a little to the N. of Cape Turnagain…. At ½ past 4 we again resumed our journey, and at 7 p.m. arrived at Porangahau....

30 [at Porangahau].

1 left [Porangahau] at ¼ past 3, p.m., and at ½ past vi. arrived at Parimahu.

2 Leaving Parimahu at ¼ past 9, we arrived at Omanuka (a deserted village close to “black-head”) by ½ past 12.... Started afresh at ½ past 2, we arrived at Manawarakau, a small village, by 7, p.m.

3 At noon we left [Manawarakau] for Waimarama, and arrived there about 6, p.m.

4 travelled on [from Waimarama] to Matarauẁi, a small village in a potatoe plantation near Cape Kidnapper... Leaving Matarauẁi we... gained [at 3 p.m.]... the Ahuriri Mission Station [Waitangi].

5-31 [At Waitangi].

1-4 [at Waitangi].

5 At 10, a.m., we left the Station [Waitangi]... and towards evening arrived at Tangoio.

6 [at Tangoio].

7 left Tangoio.... Travelled till 7, when we halted at Tuẁanui ­by a small stream.

8 Early this morning we left Tuẁanui, and in 3 hours arrived at Waikari, a small village... returned, halting in a wood at night near Aropauanui.

9 Started early, and arrived at Aropauanui.... Leaving Aropauanui, and pushing on... arrived late at Ahuriri.

10 Early this morning we crossed the harbour [in a canoe], and at ix a.m., arrived at the Station [Waitangi].

11-26 [at Waitangi].

27 left [Waitangi] at x, a.m., and at v. p.m., arrived at Kohinurakau.

28 I started [from Kohinurakau] for the little village of Ngaẁaka­tatara... went on to Patangata.

29 At 1, p.m., I left [Patangata] for Te Rotoatara; arrived there at ½ past 2... and left at 5, p.m. for Te Taheke, whither we arrived at ½ past 7.

30 I left [Te Taheke] for the Station [Waitangi]; arrived there at 4. p.m….

31 [at Waitangi].

1-9 [at Waitangi].

10 At 9, a.m., I left the Station [Waitangi]... at 2, p.m., we arrived at Matarauẁi, a small village a few miles S. of Cape Kidnapper... left at ½ past 3 [for] Waimarama; arrived there at 6….

11 At noon we left [Waimarama].... At 5, p.m, we reached Te Apiti, a small village in a maize plantation....

12 left [Te Apiti].... At night we halted at Ouepoto, a little sandy beach....

13 travelled [from Ouepoto] to Pakoẁai, 4½ hours, a small village... resuming our journey, gained Porangahau by Sunset….

14-16 [at Porangahau].

17 At 9 we left [Porangahau], -¼ past 12 at Ẁangaehu, a fishing village & potatoe plantation.... Resuming our journey we arrived at Pakuku by Sunset....

18 [at Pakuku].

19 started [from Pakuku] at 20m. past vi.... At 9 we reached Akitio.... At 11 we resumed our journey, at 4 gained Wakaraunuiataẁake; continued…. and at 7 arrived at Mataikona.

20-22 [at Mataikona].

23 at 1, p.m., started [from Mataikona].... At 5, we arrived at Waiorongo (“Castle Point”)….

24 left [Waiorongo] early at ¼ past vi; travelled 2½ hours.... Resuming our journey, at xi we arrived at Ẁareama, and… proceeded on to Waipupu.... Leaving Waipupu... we travelled on... till long after sunset; halting for the night in a gulley among the cliffs.

25 Left early our halting-place, and, after travelling 3½ hours stopped… 2½ hours… travelling in addition brought us to Ẁaraurangi’... Resuming our journey we arrived at Pahawa half-an-hour after Sunset....

26 [at Pahawa].

27 Started [from Pahawa] early this morning and travelled for 2½ hours when we halted... Resuming our journey... an hour and half brought us to Huariki [and travelled thence to] Te Awaiti , another small village about a mile further S.... Leaving this place, and travelling for 3½ hours we arrived at Oroi.

28 [at Oroi].

1846 March

1 [at Oroi].

2 Left [Oroi] this morning at vi. At ½ past vii called at Mr. Barton’s Sheep station.... Travelled on.... By Sunset we gained Te Kopi....

3 [at Te Kopi].

4­ I started [at noon from Te Kopi] for Port Nicholson... 2¼ hours hard striving over the deep sandy beach, brought us to Te Upoko­kirikiri, a village upon the banks of the Wairarapa lagoon....

5 [at Te Upokokirikiri].

6 at 1, p.m, we started [from Te Upokokirikiri]... crossed the [Wairarapa] lagoon in a little canoe... [continued] under the steep jutting cliffs.... At 5, p.m., we arrived at Mukamukanui....

7 we left [Mukamukanui] this morning at ½ past 5, and travelled on for 4¼ hours to Parangarahu.... At xi, we left this place and at ½ past 5 arrived at Pitoone.

8 at Pitoone.

9 At 10 left [Pitoone] for Wellington....

10 [at Wellington].

11 At iv, p.m., I left the town of Wellington, and at vi arrived at Pitoone.

12 Left [Pitoone] at ix, a.m. in a canoe for Parangarahu.... Landed at ii, p.m….

13 left [Parangarahu] at viii. At 1, p.m., we halted at Ẁarepapa in Palliser Bay... Resuming our journey we arrived at Te Kopi... at ¼ past vi…

14-16 [at Te Kopi].

17 left Te Kopi, an hour’s travelling brought us to Omoekau... left Omoekau... I called at Ẁangaiẁakarere... (a small village).... By evening we arrived at Tauanui....

18 Early left [Tauanui] – halted at Paharakeke (a small wood)... proceeded on to Otaraia, 2 miles.... Resuming our journey, we arrived by 5, at Huaangarua....

19 Started early [from Huaangarua], travelled 2¼ hours to Matatu, a small stream.... Resuming our journey we arrived at Te Ahiaruhe.... Hence we travelled to Hurunuiorangi, a small village... set out [to examine the “bones” of the immense head of a serpent! See Colenso 1879, p.85].... Road there was none, and... the distance... 4 long miles... through the bush... We regained the village [Hurunuiorangi] –

20 Started early [from Hurunuiorangi]... travelled 2¼ hours and halted by the side of a small stream.... Thence we proceeded to Te Kaikokirikiri, where we arrived by noon....

20-23 [at Te Kaikokirikiri].

24 started [from Te Kaikokirikiri] proceeding in a NNW. direction, towards Te Hawera , and Ihuraua, two small villages, deeply secluded among the thick forests of the interior.... After 5 hours’ slow travelling we arrived upon the banks of Te Ruamahanga River... we crossed the river, and, entering a dense forest, travelled 3 hours, when we halted for the night by the side of a small stream.

25 [forced by rain to stay camped beside the stream].

26 recommenced our walk... travelled... for 5 hours... continued for 3 hours longer, when we came to some bark huts....

27 Starting this morning, we travelled about 2 hours when... we halted on the side of the River Manga-a-noka…. Hence, another half-hour’s travelling brought us to the village of Te Hawera... in the midst of a small plain (the only open space we had seen for 3 days)....

28-29 [at Te Hawera].

30 left [Te Hawera] at ½ past vi, and at ½ past ix we arrived on the banks of the R. Mangatainoka.... Travelled... for 4 hours, when we again came upon the River Mangatainoka, which we now crossed for the last time... Two hours more... brought us to the Manawatu River, on the opposite shore of which was Ngaawapurua. Crossing the river in canoes we entered the village.

31 [at Ngaawapurua].