Colenso’s collections

1 commenced our wet and cold march… by the banks of the little stream [and] arrived at Rutahuna [Mangatepa] a small village….

2-3 [at Ruatahuna].

4 resumed my journey… over high and steep hills [and] descended to a deep valley… travelled on, every now and then crossing the stream [and] emerged from the dense forests… to a large plain covered with fern… crossing this plain… we halted… at Te Waiiti, a fenced village, situated on the banks of the river [Wirinaki] at the end of the plain.

5 resumed our journey [from Te Waiiti]… fording the river… toiling up the barren and lofty hills… descending to the banks of the river Wirinaki… [then] over the long plain [and] bivouacked for the night [on the bank of the river].

6 re-commenced our journey. Crossing the rapid river Rangitaiki, at the end of the plain… we travelled over… an interminable succession of dry and barren hills… [to] Mangamako, a little wood… [and neared] Rangiwakaaitu, the first and southernmost lake [and brought up on the shore].

7 arrived at Tarawera Lake… paddled nearly to the opposite side… landing… we came to Kareka, another little lake… paddled to the opposite end… resuming our journey… [over] the top of a high hill… [and] brought us to Te Ngae, a church mission station… I gained not a single botanical specimen throughout the whole of this day.

8-12 [at Te Ngae: visited Ohinemutu and Mokoia Island].

13 left Te Ngae. Crossing the lake, I landed at the N.W. extremity, and… resumed my journey… [to] Mangarewa, a small river running in a deep ravine… [and stopped] in the deep recesses of the forest….

14 Continuing our course… in the forest… [to] the summit of the hill, where this forest terminates… through fernland… [and] arrived at the mission station [Tauranga]….

15-18 remained a few days at Tauranga….

19 crossing the inner harbour [of Tauranga]… we landed at the N.W. extremity [At Mokomokorea]… our route... being principally by the seaside… [and] bivouacked… by the side of a small stream….

20 again proceeded, and entering a dense forest… emerged… on the top of Te Wairere, a very high hill… descended… [and] crossed the river Waiho… and proceeded on… to Matamata, a large native village [Bagnall & Petersen say Tapiri!]….

21 left Matamata, travelling in a S.W. direction… [then] after walking about eight miles over level and barren ground, we entered a romantic valley… Hinuera… [whence] proceeding… to the bottom [of an] immense ravine… Piarere… ascending its S.W. side… [and reaching] the noble river Waikato… we [travelled] about five miles in an almost southerly direction… [crossed] and proceeded in a westerly direction for upwards of six miles, arriving… at Wareturere, a small village in the Maungatautari district....

22 [Bagnall & Petersen give the previous day’s travel as occurring on this date].

23 [at Wareturere and Wera-a-te-Atua].

24 re-commenced my journey… up the steep hills; gaining the summit of the wooded mountainous range, we descended over open fern-land into extensive swampy plains… [and] reached Otawao, a mission station.

25 [at Otawao].

26 [left Otawao and] travelled over many a weary mile… [to] a small and miserable village [Toiti according to Bagnall & Petersen] near… the river Waipa. (During the whole of this day I did not obtain a single plant…).

27 Half-an-hour’s march brought us to a village [Whatawhata according to Bagnall & Petersen] on the immediate banks of the Waipa… proceeded down the river [in the canoe]… [to] Ngaruawahie [without stopping and camped on the bank].

28 [continued down the Waikato to Pukatea, and beyond, again camping on the bank].

29 [down the river and] landed safely at Maraetai… only about a mile distant from the heads.

30-31 [at Maraetai].

1842 February

1 left Maraetai…. Crossing the river in a canoe… proceeded over the sandhills… to the outer coast… [thence] over the interminable sandy beach… [to] about three miles within the southern head of Manukau Bay.

2 continued… by the sinuous shores of Manukau Bay… [to] a native Village, where… engaging a canoe, paddled to the upper extremity of the harbour; landing at Otahuhu [Mr Fairburn’s station]….

3 [at Otahuhu].

4 left Otahuhu, in a small canoe… [for] about four miles… [thence] by the winding muddy shores to Te Wau, a little barren cove… continuing… travelled on, over open and barren heaths, in a northerly direction…. Bivouacked… in a little dell….

5 re-commenced our journey… [and arrived] at Kaipara.

6-7 [at Kaipara].

8 [Kaipara to Kaukopakopa].

9-11 [at Kaukopakopa].

12 [left Kaukopakopa and] landed near the upper end of Otamatea inlet….

13 [?]

14 ... gained the sandhills at Mangawai, on the east coast, by 10 a. m….

16 struck inland towards Te Ruakaka… [then] resumed our journey [to the shore of Wangarei Bay]… paddled… across the harbour… landing at Tamatarau, a small village….

17 re-commenced our march… [passed] Te Karaka… [thence through] the forests on the hill tops… crossing the mouth of Horahora creek… arrived at Ngunguru, a village near the coast….

18 Leaving Ngunguru… in a boat… to Owae, a small village in Wangaruru Bay.

19-20 [at Owae].

21 Leaving Owae in a canoe… we paddled across Wangaruru Bay, and gained the upper end of Wangaruru River…. Landing at Tutaimatai… proceeded on over Te Ranga, a high hill… descending… through a swamp at the base of the hill… arrived at Waikare….

22 down the Waikare River [to Paihia].

1843 August

“My time has been fully occupied in study; excepting about 3 weeks in August, when the Bishop kindly sent me to visit the Natives at Wangarei Bay and adjacent villages.” [letter to C. M. S. 2 October 1843].

2 left the Waimate and arrived at Paihia.

3 sailed from the Bay of Islands.

5 anchored at Auckland.

8-10 [at Auckland].

10 on board the Columbine… sailed [from Auckland]… anchored under Rangitoto.

13 sailed… at evening we made Hobson’s Harbour in Aotea (Barrier Island).

14 again ventured to sea.

15 made Tauranga Harbour… anchored without Maunganui… got in safely into the desired haven.

16-17 [at Tauranga].

18 this evening, sailed.

19 at 10 a. m, we anchored off Rev. G. A. Kissling’s Station, near the Kawakawa in Hick’s Bay [landed alone] walked to Mr. Kissling’s.

20 the Columbine… sailed away, leaving [me] behind [at Mr. Kissling’s]!

21 left [Mr. Kissling’s for Turanga] and, at 5, p.m., arrived at Mr. Stack’s Station, near Rangitukia.

22 [at Rangitukia].

23 Started this morning [from Rangitukia] on my way to Turanga. Crossed the… Waipu River at Mangaẁero, a small village about four miles from Mr Stack’s… [returned to Hick’s Bay].

25 at 10… again started [from Hick’s Bay] by an inland route, for Waiapu; reached Pukemaire, (a large village about 3 miles WSW from Rangitukia,) by a very hilly route, at sunset.

26 Early this morning I started from Pukemaire; crossed the Waiapu River at a large pa…. Gaining the sea coast… about noon I arrived at Reporua… halted, for the night, at Waipiro.

27 Proceeding [from Waipiro] on my journey… at noon we reached Te Ariuru (the large pa at Tokomaru)… and, passing on, halted at Tuatini… proceeded… At 7, p.m., I reached Anaura.

28 [left Auaura]… About 5 p.m., I arrived at Mr. Baker’s Station at Uawa….

29 [at Uawa].

30 Left Uawa… At sunset arrived at Pakarae, a small village on the seashore….

31 This evening arrived at Turanga.

1843 November

1 [went] on board the Columbine….

2 obliged to put back… when about 20 miles S. of Ẁarekawa, (Portland Island) on the N. side of Table Cape.

3 sailed again… off Hawke’s Bay.

4-15 [unable to land, due to severe hurricane].

15 this morning at ½ past 3… rowed… into a little harbour (which I named Deliverance Cove) just under Rangiẁakaoma, (Castle Point) where we landed… [walked] about 2 miles distant by the coast, in a N. direction [to a] small village... called Waiorongo [near Mataikona, a village about 12 miles further N.].

16 proceeded on by the coast… to Mataikona… after walking 8 or 9 miles, arrived at Poroutaẁao… proceeded by coast about 2 miles further to Mataikona… situated on the banks of a small river close to the sea.

17-30 [at Mataikona].

1 At 10, a.m., we started [from Mataikona]… for Akitio, the next village, N., on the Coast , at which place we arrived about 7 p.m… the distance about 15 miles.

2-3 [at Akitio].

4 At an early hour we left Akitio… reached Porangahau… situated on the banks of a small river about 3 miles from the sea.

5 remained [at Porangahau].

6 At ¼ past 10, a.m. I left [Porangahau], and… proceeded on over one long sandy beach to Parimahu, (a conspicuous promontory) which we reached by ¼ past 2 p.m… halted at a… waterfall close to the Cape… travelled over a rocky and devious route at the bases of… cliffs, to Pohatupapa, a little cove)… distant from Parimahu about 5 miles… pushed on to Ouepoto, another small cove, about 3 miles further N… over a firm sandy beach.

7 started at 20m. past 6. At ¼ past 8, a.m., we arrived at Pauanui, (? Black Head of Cook’s Cht.)… proceeded to Okura… which place I reached by noon… again proceeded, by the Coast, to Manawarakau… situated on the bank of a small river.

8 started [from Manawarakau] at ½ past 6…. Proceeded on by the Coast for a mile or two… struck inland… climbing the high range of hills... ascended to the top of the highest ridge of Te Puku – ­a bold jutting promontory having an Islet lying off it – and descended to Waimarama, a small village… 15 miles S. of the Southern Headland of Hawke’s Bay, (Matau-a-maui)…. At 1, p.m., we left this village (Waimarama)… and travelled over one long sandy beach for 3 hours, when we struck inland… consented to halt at ½ past 4 at the base of the high range of Te Matau-a-maui.

9 Resumed our journey this morning at 20m. past 4, and at 20m. past 7 descended into Hawke’s Bay, 3 or 4 miles within the Southern Headland…. At 9, we breakfasted… on the beach, – ­at noon passed a small village (Te Awanga)… and at 2, p.m., reached Te Awapuni, the principal village….

10-11 [at Te Awapuni].

12 Left [Te Awapuni] directly after breakfast… Arriving at Mataruahou, the headland, (of the inner harbour,) we crossed to Te Taha, on the opposite shore, in a Canoe… proceeded… over the long stony beach… and, towards evening, we arrived at Ngamoerangi, a large pa on the inner shore of Hawke’s Bay….

13 left [Ngamoerangi]. Our course was directly inland, up a valley and over high hills. At 2 p.m. we halted at a small village, called Aropauanui…. Leaving Aropauanui, we proceeded on over high hills…. At Sunset we brought up by the side of a stream, called Moeangiangi….

14 resumed our journey [from Moeangiangi stream]… arrived at Waikari, a small village… situated on a river of the same name, by 11 a. m…. Crossing the river in a Canoe, and ascending the high range of hills before us, we travelled until we arrived at Mohaka , a village (or rather several scattered hamlets) on a fine river of the same name… by Sunset….

15 started [from Mohaka] about 8 a.m., and, at noon, passed through a small village on the top of the hills…. At 4 p.m., we descended to the seaside. I was gratified to find the English Sweet Pea (Painted Lady, var,) flourishing luxuriantly in this solitary spot; when or how introduced must be quite conjectured…. Proceeding hence, over long sandy beaches, we arrived at the embouchure of the Wairoa River… continuing… up the River, for nearly 3 miles… arrived late at Uruhou, a village on the northern bank of the River….

16 At Uruhou.

17 [at Uruhou].

18 at 10 a.m., I left [Uruhou for Waikare Lake]…. Our course lay up the valley of Te Wairoa, in a NNW direction. After travelling 6 or 7 miles, during which we crossed Te Wairoa in a Canoe, we arrived at the junction of Te Waiau River, and bore away for about a mile on its left bank, when we crossed it in a little canoe, at a small village,called Hinemokai… travelled W. by the right bank of the river for 2 miles, then NW to Iringataha, a small village…. From this village 2 miles of ascent to the summit of Kainganui, whence, Panekire, (the precipitous cliff overhanging Waikare Lake,) bore WNW., Uruhou SE., and Ẁakapanake (a high and table-topped mountain,) NE. Proceeding hence for 2 miles, we came to Herepunga, a small village… traveled… over hill after hill, until 8 p.m., in hopes of reaching Te Matai… brought up for the… night in an old plantation…

19 managed… to start at 7, and at 9 reached Te Matai, a small clean village on the immediate bank of the River Waikaretaheke, which we crossed in a canoe…. At ½ past 11, a.m., we left Te Matai and at 4 p.m., brought up… on the grassy banks of Mangamauka, a small rivulet. Hence we continued travelling until sunset, when we halted… about 3 miles from Waikare Lake. Our course this day was by the side of the River Waikaretaheke….

20 [crossed the river]… in about 2 hours we arrived on its [Waikare Lake’s] banks [at a pa, Te Onepoto].

21-26 [at Te Onepoto].

27 at ½ past 7… left [Te Onepoto, paddled across the lake, and] landed at Mokau, a small village on the opposite shore of the Lake , at 5m. past 9.

28 [left Mokau and] paddled to Hereheretaunga, the landing place at the further extremity of the Lake…. At 8 a.m. recommenced my journey… travelling through the ancient forests of this mountainous region…. At Sunset we arrived at Te Takapau, a village… situated in… a dense forest, close under the high hills of Ruatahuna, which gives its name to this District.

29 walked [from Te Takapou] to Oputao, (a fenced vil1age,) situate [sic] on the high E. bank of the river Ẁakatane….

30 left Oputao for Te Ẁaiiti District… WSW. over very high and densely wooded hills; having gained their topmost ridge, we travelled for several miles in a westerly direction, when descending to the base of the mountains, we journeyed WNW. and NW. by the banks of the stream… crossing and recrossing the river no less than 61 times…. At 5 p.m., we emerged from... the forests to an extensive but very barren plain, composed of volcanic sand… through this plain the River Ẁirinaki runs in a Northerly direction, on the NW bank of which is Te Ahikereru, a fenced pa… arrived at this village at 6p.m.

31 [at Te Ahikereru].

1844 ­Jauary

1 started [from Te Ahikereru] for Tututarata. We proceeded up the valley in a W. direction for a few miles until we came to the base of the hill on which Otukopeka, a fenced village, is situated… we forced our way through the thick jungle at its base, and continued our journey in a NNW direction to Tututarata, which village we reached about 3 p.m…. This village is… situated on the apex of the high mountain range... Ruapehu and Tongariro… bore SSW; Tauẁara… SW. 50’; Paeroa, W. 80’; Kaingaroa, NNW. 30’; and Putauaki, (near Ẁakatane on the E. coast,) N. 5’; while beneath... the Rivers Ẁirinake and Rangitaiki mingled….

2 Commencing our descent [from Tututarata] in a N. direction, we arrived on the plains in l½ hours, and pursued our Course towards the banks of the Ẁirinake, distant about 3 miles [to] an encampment….

3 About noon… started [from this “sitting-place”, and] reached… a tongue of land at the very junction of the Rangitaike and Ẁirinake Rivers – in a little more than an hour.

4 leaving… crossed the River Ẁirinake, and proceeded by its Eastern bank in a returning direction to [the encampment reached on the 2^nd] distant about 4 miles…. About noon I left this place for Te Onepu…. Halted at Te Hinau… on the banks of Ẁirinake River…. About sunset we reached Te Onepu, a small fenced village on the banks of the same river… continued our journey [spent the night somewhere between Te Onepu and Te Ahikereru].

5 Started at 8 a.m., and reached Te Ahikereru at ½ past 10 a.m., distance about 7 miles through woods on the banks of the river… continued our journey towards Oputao, by the road through which we came… obliged to bring up... in a little plantation on the top of the highest range at 7 p.m.

6 in 2 hours we reached Oputao.

7 [at Oputao].

8 left [Oputao] for Mangatepa… travelled in a NNE. direction, and in l½ hours we arrived at the village of Mangatepa, which is about 4 miles from Oputao, on the E. bank of the Ẁakatane River… now… deserted… left the place [Mangatepa] for Te Kape, a village about a ¼ of a mile from it further down the river… pursued my journey [to] Pipi, about a mile and quarter from Te Kape… [at ½ past 8 p.m., I proceeded on a little way into the wood… finding a shed or two, we threw ourselves down….

9 At ½ past 7, a.m., left [Pipi] for Maruteangi, proceeding in a N.E. direction. Passed through Te Ruataniẁa, a small village… 3 miles from Pipi… contined our journey… At noon we reached Maruteangi, a large pa on the E. bank of the Ẁakatane river… about 12 or 14 miles from Pipi.

10 left [Maruteangi] at 9, a.m.; travelling ENE. up a steep range of hills [to] Pahitaua, a small village… on the top of the first ridge… proceeded… SE., and still up steep hills and through eternal forests…. At one, p.m., we gained the top of the range, Te Rangaataneiti…. Descending into the deep recesses of the forest, we travelled ESE. for an hour [as far as] a stream [where we] remained… for the night.

11 resumed our journey…. At 10 we came… upon a small village, in the midst of these dense woods… travelled E. and NE. to Maunga Poẁatu and, at 2, p.m., arrived at Te Toreätai, a small village at the base of the mountain (Maunga Poẁatu)….

12 At11 a.m., we left [Te Toreätai] course NNE. through the woods…. About a mile from Toreätai, is the little village of Ngauwaka, and about 2 miles from Ngauwaka is Te Kahakaha, another small village… leaving Te Kahakaha [proceeded hence] NNW., and at 2 p.m., we reached Tauaki, a small village…. Hence we travelled in a NW. direction until 4 p.m., when we stopped… at a small village… starting again at 5, we reached Oẁiorangi by 7… and brought up… a few yards further on.

13 This morning at ½ past 4, I rose and… started afresh…. At 7, we halted at the foot of Te Ẁarau, a very high hill…. Proceeding thence, over Te Ẁarau, in a NNW. direction, we travelled about 3½ hours, when we arrived at Aropaki, a small village on the W. bank of the River Ẁakatane, and about ½ a mile from Maruteangi….

14 [at Aropaki].

15 this morning… started at 5 [from Aropaki]; our Course being nearly NNW. by the banks of the River Ẁakatane [and then] over high hills clothed with wood to their summits… traveled… until 1 p.m., until we descended a very steep descent from the top of the range to the river [at Marumaru]…. At 3, p.m., we left Marumaru… and, travelling nearly N., arrived at Tunanui at half past six…. We crossed and recrossed this river of Ẁakatane about 20 times during the day’s march.

16 At 5 this morning we resumed our journey [from Tunanui] travelling N. by W…. at ¼ past 6 we reached Ngamahanga, a small village on the W. bank of the river [Ẁakatane] about 4 miles from Tunanui…. At ¼ past 8 we left [Ngamahanga]… and at ½ past 12 p.m., reached Ruaatoki, a straggling village situated on both sides of the river… crossing the river… travelling E. and SE., I arrived at ½ past 7 at Te Pukurua, a village in Te Waimana District….

17 left [Te Pukurua]. Crossing Te Waimana River, which flows N. close under Te Pukurua… we travelled ½ a mile SE. to Te Ruaaẁakatorou, a small village… proceeded ½ a mile further to Te Ihooteata, a village….

18 11 a. m… left [Te Ihootea] on our return to Ruaatoki; at which place we arrived by 6 p.m….

19 [at Ruaatoki].

20 left [Ruaatoki] at 7 in 2 Canoes for Pupuaruhe, (the large pa near the mouth of the Ẁakatane River,)… passed Papakoẁatu and Tahunaroa, 2 small villages near each other on the E. bank of the river; and, about a mile and half further on, Parewarewa, another small village on the W. bank…. At ½ past 5 we landed at Pupuaruhe, a middle-sized pa, on the N. bank of the river, and not far from the sea.

21 [at Pupuaruhe].

22 [left at 7 and] struck[ from Pupuaruhe] in a SW. direction, for 2 villages situated near the base of the isolated mountain Putauaki… arrived at Te Reke Manuka, a small fenced village… on the immediate E. bank of the River Rangitaiki by 2 p.m. At Te Mata, on the edge of the long swamp, we passed a hot sulphurous spring….

23 proceeded [from Te Reke Manuka at 4 a.m.] to Te Kupenga…. Left this village at 9 a.m., in 2 fine canoes…. The bank of the river, on either side, is composed of volcanic sand, pumice and lava…. At noon we arrived at Te Matata, an old village on the S. bank of the river [Rangitaiki] (which here runs west), and near the sea…. left at ½ past 2, and, at 4 landed at Otamarora, a small village at the mouth of Te awa o te atua. Hence, proceeding over the long sandy beach, we arrived at Otamarakau, a middle sized pa… on the top of cliff by the sea-side, by 8 p.m….

24 Started at ½ past 4, a.m., [from Otamarakau] and at ½ past 6 halted on the beach…. Resuming our journey at ½ past 7, at ½ past 9 we arrived at Waihi… and at 10 we arrived at Maketu… [at noon] crossing the inlet in a Canoe, we proceeded on over the long sandy beach… and at 7 reached the beach of the inner harbour of Tauranga, opposite Te Papa, the Mission Station.

25 [paddled to Te Papa].

26 left [Te Papa] at 10 p.m., in the Mission boat for Te Puna, where we landed at ½ past 12….

27 started [from Te Puna] at ½ past 5. [Over Te Wairere.] At noon we crossed Te Waihou River…. Arrived at Tapiri an hour before sunset….

28 [at Tapiri].

29 left [Tapiri] this morning at 6, our course being NW. and W. over a long plain; at ½ past 9 we reached Pakarau, a small village…. at noon we left this place; our Course being nearly SW. over long plains, with small deep swamps continually occurring... passed a good strong Eel Weir…. At 5… we halted in the midst of an extensive plain and at 8 p.m. arrived at a small village on the banks of the R. Horotiu….

30 Leaving this place at 11 a.m., we paddled down the river [Horotiu] and, passing Ngaruawahie (the junction of this river with the Waipa) at 3 p.m., arrived at Pepepe, Mr. Ashwell’s station, at 4….

31 At 10 a.m., left Mr. A’ s [Pepepe] and proceeding down the Waikato river, reached Mangataẁiri, a small swampy creek on the right bank of the same, by Sunset.

1 we proceeded to the head of the narrow muddy creek [Mangataẁiri]. Landing at 10 a.m., we proceeded and travelled until Sunset, bringing up for the night on Papakura Plains, having Manukau Bay before us.

2 Started early this morning and arrived at Otahuhu, Mr. Fairburn’s, by 11 a.m.

3 At Otahuhu.

4 Walked over [ from Otahuhu] to Pukaki, a village on a Creek of the Manukau, about 5 miles from Otahuhu… returned to Otahuhu.

5 Left Otahuhu… in a canoe, intending to land at Te Ẁau in Manukau Bay, where the path leading to Kaipara commences… [landed] on the Scoria near Onehunga, a small village on the N. side of the Bay, about 5 miles from Otahuhu… arrived at Te Ẁau – where we eventually passed the night.

6 about 11 a.m., [left Te Ẁau]… and brought up for the night by the side of a small stream in the barren plains between Thames and Kaipara.

7 Early this morning we resumed our journey towards Kaipara, and reaching the landing-place on the furthest S. Bank [of Kaipara Harbour].

8 At 2 a. m, we arrived at Maukopakopa… had to remain all day.

9 [left Maukopakopa] about 2 p.m… landed at 5 p.m. on the W. bank of the Kaipara…. Started again an hour before midnight.

10 Continuing our boating we crossed the heads [of Kaipara Harbour] about daybreak Hence we proceeded up the Wairoa river… we anchored in the river at 8 p.m.: – we could not land…. About midnight we again resumed our course.

11 we landed at 6 a.m., at Te Ẁarau (the residence of a Mr. Walton)… at 2 p.m… we proceeded up the river [and landed at] Mr. Buller’s Station (W. M.) [Tangiteroria].

12 Left Mr. B’s and gained the landing place at the top of the Wairua river by nightfall, where was passed the night.

13 Starting early… arrived at Waioreore (a small village) by 3 p.m… travelled on to Te Ngauatehangehange…. Here… we passed the night.

14 Started at ½ past 5 [from Te Ngauatehangehange]; at 1 p.m. reached Waiomio…. At 3 we left and arrived at Te Kawakawa by 5, where, obtaining a canoe, we paddled for the Bay of Islands, and arrived at Paihia by 8.

15 Returned to the Waimate….