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66 Evans, Joan. Dress in Mediaeval France. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1952. xvi, 94 pages. Bibliography (mainly 19th century French works): [81]-82. Index: [83]-94. ISBN: none. 84 pages of B&W plates of artworks from the period: predominantly sculpture. Good illustrations, especially of sculpture which is elsewhere under-represented. The text, arranged by the reigns of French kings, is in the discursive style of Herbert Norris, with plentiful references to historical and literary sources and a frustrating penchant for delivering the thrust of an argument in a passage of untranslated Old French. A disconcerting note is struck by Evans’ handling of a pattern draft for the Charles de Blois doublet (Fig, IV, p. 30) which bears no resemblance to the draft shown in other sources for this garment. Later, however, (p. 48, Fig. VI) Evans gives a draft for the body of this doublet (but not the famous multi-part sleeves) over the description “Gippon de quatre quartiers. After Harmond.” It is best to confirm Evans’ written information from other sources. [FRANCE; ILLUSTRATIONS; 11th CENTURY; 12th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY] 67 Ewing, Elizabeth. Dress and Undress: A History of Women's Underwear. London: B.T. Batsford, 1978. 191 pages. "UK Bibliography": 183-185. "USA Bibliography": 186-187. Index: 188-191. ISBN: 0713416297. 199 B&W illustrations: photographs of surviving items and artworks, and line redrawings. A reasonable attempt to examine the history of women’s underwear. Primarily later than our period, but the first few chapters are a sound introduction. Medieval underwear is not often shown in artworks, and attempts to figure out what it was depend on a very few artworks and quotations. Ewing examines these sources, arguing that the devil in the famous Cottonian manuscript is wearing “the shapemaker that was to become the corset” (p. 18-19) even though the garment is outerwear and was not seen again for “some three centuries” (p. 19). Ewing also corrects Strutt’s misunderstandings about the corsettus, noting that Joan Evans and Kay Staniland interpret the corsettus as a cloak rather than what we would call a corset. By the time of farthingales and whalebone stays, Ewing has more to work with. One sometimes wishes for footnotes. General background, but not a direct guide to costuming. [SURVEYS; UNDERCLOTHING; ENGLAND] Farrell-Beck, Jane. See Payne, Blanche. The History of Costume. 68 Fernald, Mary, and Eileen Shenton. Costume Design & Making: A Practical Handbook. London: Adam & Charles Black, 1937. 164 pages. Bibliography: 159. ISBN: none. 24 Illustrations (B&W, from artworks) and 51 pages of diagrams (mostly cutting layouts). English costume from Saxons to Victorians: “This book is intended as a practical guide to the making of period costumes for stage purposes, but since a minimum of historical knowledge is essential to successful designing, a short historical survey is necessary” (p. 9). The introduction contains strangely compelling information about the effects lighting schemes have on colours of cloth, the difficulty of finding the right sorts of velvet and the process of costuming a play. Pages 20-62 are short summaries of the costumes of the times covered, and the remainder of the book is a collection of pattern layouts. The medieval patterns appear to have been constructed along modern lines, and are admirably suited to the theatrical purpose for which they were designed. [THEATRE; ENGLAND; SURVEYS; CONSTRUCTION - MODERN] 69.1 Ffoulkes, C.J. (Charles John). European Arms and Armour. London: Published for the Historical Association by G. Bell and Sons, 1932. 16 pages. Historical Association. Pamphlet ; no. 88. ISBN: none. 22 B&W line drawings redrawn from named sources. Also published, with editing to remove the more modern sections, as: 69.2 Ffoulkes, C.J. “European Arms and Armour” in Social Life in Early England. Ed. Geoffrey Barraclough. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1960. 124-138. ISBN: none. 19 B&W line drawings redrawn from named sources. A history of arms and armour in the Western world, starting with the replacement of saplings by flint-headed spears and concluding with World War I helmets, all in 16 pages. Does include a diagram naming the parts of armour, but otherwise manages to be alternately opinionated and uncritical. There are better sources. [ARMOUR; WEAPONS; SURVEYS] Fox, Linda Rheims. See de Rheims, Audelindis [Linda Rheims Fox] and Catarina da Monticello [Joyce Cottrell]. “General Bibliography of Costume.” Galloway, Patricia. See Bruce-Mitford, Rupert. The Sutton Hoo Ship-Burial. Gamber, Ortwin. See Thomas, Bruno. Arms and Armour. 70 Geijer, Agnes. “The Textile Finds from Birka.” In Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson. Edited by N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting. London: Heinemann Educational Books, 1983. 80-99. ISBN: 0435323822. 16 B&W scale photographs and diagrams showing textiles and decorative trims. Birka, near Stockholm, was a major international market town in the 800s and 900s, but was destroyed around 1000. Since 1871, some 1100 graves from Birka have been excavated, and their contents have revealed much about eastern Scandinavian clothing during the Viking age. However, the poor condition of the textile fragments—many are tiny pieces protected from rotting by oxides in metal brooches or braids—has made it hard to draw definite conclusions, and the lack of English-language publication on the finds has made good information about the raw data hard to find. Anges Geijer, whose work on the Birka finds includes Birka, III: Die Textilfunde aus den Grabern (Uppsala, 1938) here presents a summary in English. Scale photographs show examples of the different weaves, while the text explains the particular factors affecting the preservation of the different types of fibres. Particularly interesting is the section on “Costume trimmings of gold and silver”, which shows trim of gold and silver wire twisted into figurines (a stag), knotwork and ornaments with inserts of mica. There are also pictures of tablet-woven bands, and a discussion of garments which might explain the positioning of certain fragments. Although the article is useful background for anyone working on Viking clothing, it is a sobering reminder of the difficulty of the field that someone who had been working with the materials for nearly 50 years could offer only the most general of hypotheses. [SURVIVING TEXTILES; VIKING; SCANDINAVIA; 9th CENTURY; 10th CENTURY] Gervers, Veronika. See Harte, N.B. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe. 71 Goddard, Eunice Rathbone. Women’s Costume in French Texts of the Eleventh and Twelfth Centuries. Baltimore, Maryland: John Hopkins Press; Paris: Presses Universitaires, 1927. Reprinted as The John Hopkins Studies in Romance Literatures and Languages, v. VII, 1973. [i], [265] pages. Bibliographies of: Texts Read with Abbreviations and Dates (p. 239-246), Works on Archaeology (p. 247-249), Works on Philology (p. 250-252), and Works on Costume (p. 253-256). Index: 257-263. ISBN: 0384190405. The body of the work is an annotated glossary of terms used in texts of the 11th and 12th centuries to describe women’s clothing (p. 24-224). 12 B&W figures (14 illustrations) of contemporary manuscripts and sculptures. A specialist resource, useful for anyone trying to make sense of the clothing worn by women in France and similar countries in the 11th and 12th centuries. Most useful to those with enough French to take a stab at the meaning of the frequent untranslated snippets of Medieval French, and to consult the French-language costume resources such as Viollet-le-Duc which are so frequently referenced. An illuminating work which suggests that many commonly held views of the bliaut style of dress are misinformed, but does not set out a taxonomy of dress to replace them. Was there, sometimes, a seam at waist or hip between the cors (body-part) and the gironee (flaring skirt) of the bliaut? How many different styles of clothing were worn at the time, and in what circumstances would each be appropriate? Much information is presented which the reader may use to develop ideas. [FRANCE; 11th CENTURY; 12th CENTURY; GLOSSARIES; WOMEN; PHILOLOGY] 72 Gorsline, Douglas. What People Wore: A Visual History of Dress from Ancient Times to Twentieth-Century America. New York, Viking Press, 1952. xiii, 269 pages. Bibliography: 249-257. Numerous B&W illustrations, redrawn from original sources. An upmarket browser. Chapters by era, with a short summary followed by pages of illustrations. The drawings are more accurately detailed than is usually the case, and sometimes give enough information to trace the original illustration. The bulk of the book is later than our period: before 1485, coverage is sparse, and only after 1605 does it really pick up speed. Worth a browse when getting to know a new time. [SURVEYS] 73 Grange, R.M.D. A Short History of the Scottish Dress. London: Burke’s Peerage, 1966. 120 pages. Bibliography: 115-116. “Index of Sources”: 119-120. ISBN; none. 111 illustrations, including 8 colour plates, of artworks of the times (mostly portraits) and a sample of textile. A tour of the sources relating to the contentious question of the history of Scottish clothing, and particularly of the development of tartans and kilts. While admitting that the modern clan tartan system is an invention of the 19th century, Grange seeks to trace the history of the wearing of plaid and the development of the kilt. There is general information on the saffron shirt and the belted plaid, as well as curious examples showing that you’ll see what you’re looking for in the skirts of 15th century doublets from corbel sculpture. [SCOTLAND] 74 Green, Ruth M. The Wearing of Costume: The Changing Techniques of Wearing Clothes and How to Move in Them: From Roman Britain to the Second World War. London: Sir Isaac Pitman and Sons, 1966. 171 pages. ISBN: none. 102 B&W line drawings. A fascinating read. Not on making costume, but on wearing it, walking in it, sitting in it, and the possibilities for delineating character by flashing an ankle while swirling hoops. Intended to give actors an idea of the appropriate movements and mannerisms to make them appear comfortable in period clothing. Good reading for recreators wanting to know how to manage trailing skirts or swords while dancing, or what to do with your legs while sitting on a throne. [WEARING OF CLOTHING; ENGLAND] 75 Grew, Francis, and Margrethe de Neergaard. Shoes and Pattens. Vol. 2 of Medieval Finds from Excavations in London. London: HMSO, 1988. vi, 145 pages. Glossary: 123-125. Bibliography: 140-142. ISBN: 0112904432. 165 B&W illustrations and 22 tables. Many photographs of surviving shoes and pattens, with line drawings showing cut and pattern layout. The best guide there is to medieval footwear. Covers shoes and pattens excavated from London sites dated between 1100 and 1450, giving extensive and detailed information on materials, leather stitching, decorative treatments and general shoe-making. Pattern diagrams are given for dozens of pairs of shoes and low boots. Tables show the size distributions of the excavated shoes from the various sites (most of them are on the small side), and one chapter examines the wear patterns, slashes and repairs for evidence of foot and gait problems. Another chapter on “Shoes in art and literature” provides an excellent review of sources, including some of the costume books mentioned in this bibliography. “Most of the conclusions about medieval shoe fashions reached over the past hundred years have been based on evidence from manuscripts and sculpture of the relevant period. Thus an opportunity to compare this work with surviving datable archaeological finds must not be overlooked. The evidence of the shoes in the present collection suggests that many of the conclusions about medieval shoes should be modified, or simply abandoned. The most obvious example of this is the occurrence of ‘poulaines’, not as the standard footwear of the late 14th century but as exceptional.” (p. 122) Gives the information required to reproduce the footwear of the time, and a fair amount of background about when, where, and by whom such footwear would be worn. Highly recommended. [FOOTWEAR; ENGLAND; 12th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; SURVIVING GARMENTS; ARCHAEOLOGY] 76 Hägg, Inga. “Viking Women’s Dress at Birka: A Reconstruction by Archaeological Methods.” In Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson. Edited by N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting. London: Heinemann Educational Books, 1983. 316-350. ISBN: 0435323822. 38 B&W photographs, line drawings, sketches and schematic diagrams showing textiles, brooches and reconstructed stratifications. It is interesting to read this article in conjunction with Agnes Geijer’s article on the Birka textiles described above. As Hägg points out, about 90% of the Birka textiles remain unpublished, since Geijer’s work selected only the best examples for study. Using more modern techniques, Hägg examined about 4000 textile samples that had remained in their lumps of earth. Although this tells the interested reader much about important aspects of archaeology (don’t “clean” the metal items of their textile and earth traces; record the sequence of layers and the positions of textiles and other “soft” remains), and although the photographs are intriguing, this is still about pieces of the puzzle. The reconstructed stratifications of textiles found over and under the oval brooches which Scandinavian women seem often to have worn near the collarbones suggest that the layering of garments was more complex than we thought, perhaps including a tunic and jacket/caftan as well as the linen shirt, pinafore-dress and mantle. Viking clothing is, however, still an uncertain field: watch this space. [SURVIVING TEXTILES; VIKINGS; ARCHAEOLOGY] 77 Hald, Margrethe. Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials: A Comparative Study of Costume and Iron Age Textiles. [Copenhagen]: The National Museum of Denmark, 1980. 398 pages. Bibliography: 394-398. ISBN: 8748003123. The English translation of Olddanske Tekstiler from 1950, with some revision and expansion. [466] B&W illustrations of surviving garments and textile fragments, artworks, weaving patterns and ways of cutting a jacket out of the hide of a deer or polar bear. An impressive gathering of information. The textiles in question were preserved by the particular qualities of Danish peat bogs (slightly acid with low oxygen content). Dating these pieces is not always straightforward, but they seem to range from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages. We can often tell more about the weaving techniques–and anything which we can learn by analysing the textiles themselves–than about the ways they were worn, their times and contexts, or sometimes even whether they were garments at all. Many kinds of garments are shown, and the collection of items presented in this book has had a considerable impact on ideas about the cut of medieval tunics and kirtles. As well as plentiful information about such garments, this is a weaver’s and fibre-worker’s dream, giving information about techniques which are almost unknown today, such as shadow-weave, where the different directions of twist in the spun yarn are used to weave cloths which are of one colour but reflect the light differently, or the use of tablet-woven starting bands or tablet-woven brocaded trim, or the weaving of broken lozenge twills, or embroidery techniques, or the items made by techniques such as sprang and looped needle-netting. Instructions are given for many of these techniques, and the clear diagrams which accompany many of the items can be used to replicate other methods. Be aware that Hald does draw on a variety of modern cultures for supporting evidence and ideas about how some textile effects may be achieved. Also watch the dating: Hald’s interest is in grouping together similar types of textiles, and it may take some cross-referencing through the book to work out that a Bronze-Age example is immediately followed by another from the 1300s. [SURVIVING GARMENTS; SURVIVING TEXTILES; ARCHAEOLOGY; CONSTRUCTION; PATTERNS – FROM SURVIVING GARMENTS; SCANDINAVIA; WEAVING; EARLY – GERMANIC; VIKING; 11th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY] 78 Hansen, Henny Harald, 1900. Costume Cavalcade: 685 examples of Historic Costume in Colour. London: Methuen, 1956. First published 1954. 160 pages. “Select bibliography of costume books”: 155. Index: 157-160. ISBN: none. Colour illustrations copied or accurately repainted from original sources. B&W line drawings in essay on clothing through the ages. The bulk of Costume Cavalcade is a series of images from contemporary illustrations, cut and pasted into a collage in two rows per page with short notes at the base of each page giving brief descriptions and approximate dates. At the end of this is a discussion of the development of clothing from Egypt c.3000 B.C. to 1954, which makes reference to the illustrations in the earlier section. A good book for browsing to find shapes and styles, and also useful for colours, although the originals are generally a fraction lighter in shade. Very traditional view of the times and places that make up a costume history. Possibly published as Costumes and Styles in the US. [SURVEYS] Harbison, Peter. See Hunt, John. Irish Medieval Figure Sculpture, 1200-1600. 79 Hargreaves-Mawdsley, W. N. A History of Academical Dress in Europe until the End of the Eighteenth Century. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1963. 235 pages. Glossary: [190]-195. “Critical biography”: [196]-210. Index: [ 211]-235. ISBN: none. 21 plates (some colour) and 12 B&W drawn figures showing academic dress. Academic dress from the founding of the first universities; a process which Hargreaves-Mawdsley dates to the 12th century. After a general introduction the book progresses through geographical areas: 1. Italy, Spain, Portugal and Malta; 2. France; 3. Great Britain and Ireland—i. Oxford; Great Britain and Ireland—ii. Cambridge; iii. Scotland; iv. Ireland; 5. German-speaking Countries, the Low Countries, Switzerland, Scandinavia, Hungary and Poland. Scholars, even in countries like Italy where they were not assumed to be in orders, tended to adopt dress similar to that of secular clerks. Hargreaves-Mawdsley then traces the developments of each area’s academic dress as it acquired characteristics which would ultimately distinguish it as academic rather than religious. There is discussion of the medieval and Renaissance developments in the text, and the figures in the glossary are useful for earlier academic clothing, but most of the plates are later than our period. [ACADEMIC] 80 Hargreaves-Mawdsley, W.N. A History of Legal Dress in Europe until the End of Eighteenth Century. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1963. 151 pages. Glossary: [117]-120. “Critical Bibliography”: [121]-129. Index: [130]-151. ISBN: none. 21 B&W plates and one colour frontispiece from artworks of the time, with 9 B&W redrawings in the glossary. A large portion of this work is on medieval and Renaissance legal dress, which is represented not infrequently in illuminations and memorial brasses. After an introduction examining the origin of legal institutions, legal degrees and legal dress, Hargreaves-Mawdsley follows the developments for four geographical regions: 1. Italy, Spain and Portugal; 2. France; 3. Great Britain and Ireland; and 4. German-speaking Countries, the Low Countries, Switzerland, Scandinavia, Hungary and Poland. Certain items of clothing such as coifs, skullcaps and the mantle open at the right arm became fossilised as the distinctive wear of sergeants and judges, and were used in Tudor times, for instance, well after other people had stopped wearing them. [LEGAL] 81 Harrison, Michael. The History of the Hat. London: H. Jenkins, 1960. 188 pages. “Source Material” (predominantly other costume books): 179-181. Index: 184-188. ISBN: none. B&W line drawings in margins. A general introduction, marred somewhat by the author’s reliance on secondary sources. Harrison apparently misunderstands the arrangement of Norman women’s headgear, insisting that the portion of the barbette visible beneath the pillbox-style hat was actually attached earflaps (p. 33-34). Quite readable in a discursive sort of way. It does present some interesting theories, such as the parallelism between the shapes of women’s headgear and military helms, but these theories can usually be found better argued elsewhere. After a short tour of hats of the classical world, the remaining focus is on English hats. Not much use for recreation except in the most general way. [SURVEYS; HEADGEAR] 82 Harte, N.B. and K.G. Ponting, eds. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson. Pasold Studies in Textile History 2. London: Heinemann Educational Books, 1983. 401 pages. Index: [391]-401. ISBN: 0435323822. B&W photographs of surviving textiles. Maps and tables. A collection of 17 essays to do with medieval textiles and garments, with an introduction and bibliography of the published writings of Professor Carus-Wilson. The essays, which take approaches ranging from archaeology to literary and economic analysis, are of a high standard and have been influential. Some of them cover ground which is not otherwise accessible in the English language. Essays which have their own entries are in bold type: John H. Munro. “The Medieval Scarlet and the Economics of Sartorial Splendour.” p. 13-70. Judith H. Hofenk-De Graaf. “The Chemistry of Red Dyestuffs in Medieval and Early Modern Europe.” p. 71-79. Agnes Geijer. “The Textile Finds from Birka.” p. 80-99. Margareta Nockert. “A Scandinavian Haberget?” p. 100-107. Walter Endrei. “The Productivity of Weaving in late Medieval Flanders.” p. 108-119. Philippe Wolff. “Three Samples of English fifteenth-Century Cloth.” p. 120-128. Herman van der Wee. “The Charter of the Clothiers’ Guild of Lier, 1275.” p. 129-150. Raymond van Uytven. “Cloth in Medieval Literature of Western Europe.” p. 151-183. Hidetoshi Hoshino. “The Rise of the Florentine Woollen Industry in the Fourteenth Century.” p. 184-204. Manuel Riu. “The Woollen Industry in Catalonia in the Later Middle Ages.” p. 205-229. Francoise Piponnier. “Cloth Merchants’ Inventories in Dijon in the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries.” p. 230-247. Jerzy Wyrozumski. “The Textile Trade of Poland in the Middle Ages.” p. 248-258. Hermann Kellenbenz. “The Fustian Industry of the Ulm Region in the Fifteenth and Early Sixteenth Centuries.” p. 259-278. Veronika Gervers. “Medieval Garments in the Mediterranean World.” p. 279-315. Inga Hägg. “Viking Women’s Dress at Birka: A Reconstruction by Archaeological Methods.” p. 316-350. Marta Hoffmann. “Beds and Bedclothes in Medieval Norway.” p. 351-367. |