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Appendix C: Interloan Library AbbreviationsThe source of the copy of each bibliographic item which was annotated is indicated by an interloan code after the keywords: ACT UNITEC Institute of Technolgy Library AT Sylvia Ashton-Warner Library, Auckland College of Education AU University of Auckland, General Library CN National Library of New Zealand: Christchurch Service Centre CU University of Canterbury, Central Library DP Dunedin Public Libraries DU University of Otago, Central Library IP Invercargill City Libraries WN National Library of New Zealand WP Wellington City Libraries WU Victoria University of Wellington Library Books marked REsources for the RECREATION of medieval and renaissance CLOTHING1 Alcega, Juan de. Tailor’s Pattern Book 1598; Facsimile. Translated from Libro de Geometra Pratica y Traca by Jean Pain and Cecilia Bainton. Carlton, Bedford: Ruth Bean, 1979. [89] pages of facsimile, 66 pages of commentary. Glossary: 61-62. “Select Bibliography”: 66. ISBN: 0903585065. Numerous B&W pattern layouts in facsimile. Patterns repeated in smaller scale with English translation and notes. This facsimile of Juan de Alcega’s Tailor’s Pattern Book includes patterns for a wide range of clothing fashionable in Spain in the late 16th century. The editors of the facsimile then run through the patterns again, giving English translations of the cutting instructions. Shows that piecing fabric was an extremely common way of getting large pieces out of narrow widths of fabric. Perfect for anyone making Spanish clothing of the time, and a very useful resource for anyone interested in the late 16th century. Despite hostilities between nations, Elizabethan clothing was strongly influenced by Spanish fashions. [16th CENTURY; SPAIN; PATTERNS – ORIGINAL; CONSTRUCTION; ELIZABETHAN] 2 Anthony, Pegaret, and Janet Arnold. Costume: A General Bibliography. 2nd ed. London: Costume Society and Department of Textiles, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1974. 42 pages. ISBN: 090340706X. No illustrations. A significant annotated bibliography, still useful for its listings of older costume resources which are grouped by country and type of clothing. Its use for medieval recreation, however, is limited by the relatively small number of books it lists which focus on medieval clothing, and by the difficulty of obtaining in New Zealand some of the tantalisingly promising titles. [BIBLIOGRAPHIES] 3 Arnold, Janet. A Handbook of Costume. London: Macmillan, 1973. 336 pages. Each chapter lists “Books with useful illustrations” and there is a particular concentration of bibliographic information in the chapter on “Costume Bibliography”: [217]-232. ISBN: 0333124812. Illustrated with 240 B&W photographs of original garments, reconstructions, and associated paraphernalia. Although dealing predominantly with costume of later times, this is a sound introduction to the techniques of the study of costume. The first twelve chapters each take a type of primary source, be it sculpture or archive material, and explain how to use that type of information to learn about costume. Subsequent chapters discuss dating costume from construction techniques, costume for children and students, costume for the stage, costume bibliography, and collections of costume and costume accessories in England, Scotland and Wales. Gives insights into the roles and skills of researchers, conservators and theatrical costume designers, as well as guidance on getting the best out of libraries and museums. Lists artists to follow in different periods. Very good for 18th and 19th century costume. [ENGLAND; COSTUME STUDY – THEORY; CONSTRUCTION; CHILDREN; ACADEMIC] 4 Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, c1560 - 1620. London: Macmillan, 1985. 128 pages. ISBN: 0333382846. Photographs of surviving garments, as well as portraits, sculptures, woodcuts, and diagrams from contemporary books of fabric cutting layouts. Drawings of surviving garments from different angles, with pattern drafts taken from the garments. The book on costume of the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Has almost everything, including close-ups of bits of corroded metal braid and dress trains which have been cut up for upholstery. In addition to detailed photographs and descriptions of original items, there are patterns drawn on squared paper which can be scaled up for use. All is not quite perfection, however: in addition to the need for further scaling to fit your size (the original wearers tended to be on the slight side), there are problems with some of Arnold’s pattern drafts, particularly for sleeve caps. Stay alert, and see if you can get hold of “The Annotated Arnold” (I couldn’t) for its list of fixes. [ELIZABETHAN; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY; STUART; ENGLAND; GERMANY; SPAIN; SCANDINAVIA; PATTERNS – FROM SURVIVING GARMENTS; CONSTRUCTION; SURVIVING GARMENTS] 5 Arnold, Janet. Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d: The Inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes prepared in July 1600 edited from Stowe MS 557 in the British library, MS LR 2/121 in the Public Records Office, London, and MS V.b.72 in the Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington DC. Leeds: Maney, 1988. xvi, 376 pages. Index I: “Miscellaneous subjects including paintings, persons, places, and events”: 351-358. Index II: “Clothing, textiles, jewels, motifs, colours, techniques, and articles for the toilet”: 359-376. ISBN: 0901286206. 465 B&W illustrations of artworks and artifacts, including garments, from the time. This large-format book is one costumers drool over, laden with pictures of portraits (many with detail of interesting bits), embroideries, jewels, fashion dolls, shoes, coifs, gloves, smocks, stockings, drawers, reed bents, ribbons, etc. It is a hybrid between a coffee table book with discussion of portraits of the Queen and a scholarly look at Queen Elizabeth’s wardrobe records. The specific focus is on Elizabethan women’s court wear, and particularly the clothing of Elizabeth herself, leavened with discussion of the structure and clothing of the royal household and the painting of royal portraits (there were certain official patterns of the Queen’s face, and a time would be made for a lady-in-waiting to pose for the artist wearing the Queen’s gown). Fascinating for the incidental information about the people who made and gave clothing, for examples of pieces of costume, and for explanation of the fashions over the years, which often led to the remodelling of old garments. [ENGLAND; ELIZABETHAN; 16th CENTURY; WOMEN; SURVIVING GARMENTS; UNDERCLOTHING; WARDROBE ACCOUNTS] Arnold, Janet. See also Anthony, Pegaret. Costume: A General Bibliography. 6 Ashdown, Charles Henry. British & Continental Arms and Armour. New York: Dover Publications, [1970]. x, 384 pages. Reprint of the 1909 edition published under the title British and Foreign Arms & Armour. Index: 371-384. ISBN: 0486224902. 445 B&W line drawings of armour and weapons, and 41 B&W plates showing artifacts. Although starting in the Stone Age, Ashdown quickly moves through the Assyrians, Romans, Saxons and Danes, and then lingers for the next 300 pages over the time from the Norman Conquest to 1600. This is an earlier work, and some ideas have changed in the interim: Ashdown believes in the existence of banded mail, and discourses on it at length, hypothesising that it is made from washers strung on leather straps and lying flat. These days it is considered that banded mail, along with “ring mail”, is a misunderstanding of the changing artistic conventions for depicting ordinary mail. The book is a mix of rarely seen pieces of armour, glaive profiles that look like someone crossed an old-style tin opener with a fishing fly, ancient arquebuses and arbalests. Contains nuggets of insight, but probably best used with care as a wordy browser. [SURVEYS; ENGLAND; EUROPE; ARMOUR; WEAPONS] 7 Ashdown, Mrs Charles H. [Emily Jessie Ashdown]. British Costume During XIX Centuries (Civil and Ecclesiastical). London: Nelson, [1929]. 376 pages. Glossary: 359-363. Index: 365-376. ISBN: none. 459 B&W and 9 colour line-drawn and engraved figures of original artworks, some seeming to have been taken from sources which interpret them–many of the medieval ones are familiar from Strutt. 8 colour plates of coloured photographs of reconstructed costumes and headdresses. Not a bad introduction, making a real attempt to describe, illustrate and date the clothing shown in manuscripts and other artworks, and described in texts from the times. The line drawings are very familiar, forming part of a tradition which drew heavily on Strutt’s work (see below) and continues today. Scholarship has advanced, but this may still be used as a general introductory work, so long as one is alert to the factors where thinking has most changed. A word of warning: Ashdown’s extraordinary reconstructed headdresses shown in the photographs are hugely out of proportion and should not be imitated. [ENGLAND – SURVEYS; ANGLO-SAXON; 11th CENTURY; 12th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY; ECCLESIASTICAL] 8 Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society 1500-1914. Photographs by Andreas von Einsiedel. London: National Trust, 1996. 320 pages. Select bibliography: 314. Index: 315-320. ISBN: 0810963175 (clothbound); 0707801850. 270 plates (most colour) of garments and artworks from named sources. Ashelford provides a good balance of text and illustrations, showing extant garments where they are available, portraits, and using quotations from diaries, letters and published books of the time to produce a work on English clothing which is interesting, informative and glossily presented. Only a little is on the earlier Tudors: Ashelford takes off once she gets to the Elizabethans. The importance of the text to a work on costume history is brought home in the section on Restoration dress, which points out that the rather revealing soft gowns in gleaming satin which are a feature of the portraits by Sir Peter Lely were in fact nightgowns, designed for lounging comfortably and stylishly at home once freed from the tight stays and formal court dress of the day. A purely pictorial guide might leave one with the mistaken impression that this was what a well-bred woman of the 1660s might wear out. It is to be regretted that Ashelford’s interests do not extend earlier, since works on medieval clothing in her thoughtful and well-presented style would be a boon. [ENGLAND; TUDOR; ELIZABETHAN; STUART; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY; SURVEYS] 9 Ashelford, Jane. Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I. London: Batsford, 1988. 159 pages. Glossary: 150-153. Select bibliography: 154-155. Index: 157-159. ISBN: 0713456221. 100 B&W illustrations from paintings, artworks and garments of the time. 8 colour plates of portraits and a surviving embroidered jacket. An excellent book about Elizabethan clothing, following the dress of women and of men from 1558-1603. Other chapters describe the fashion trade, the language of dress (colour symbolism and emblems), dress and social status and festive dress. Replete with quotations and anecdotes from writings of the time, including poetry, guidebooks and household accounts (“The Clerk of the Wardrobe, being a fairly lowly person, received four yards of puke (a woollen textile) for his gown, whereas the Lord Chamberlain as Head of the Household received the highest entitlement of fourteen yards of velvet for his gown.” p. 112). Significant discussion of the clothing shown in portraits. The chapter on festive dress mentions the interest shown in this century in exotic “national costumes” as starting points for the costuming of masques and triumphs–an interest which was associated with the publication of picturesque but not always reliable books of costume at this time (such as those by Boissard and Vecellio). Check out the extraordinary bare-legged portrait of Thomas Lee (p. 123) showing him in an idealised and Elizabethan-ised version of the clothing of Irish soldiers. [ELIZABETHAN; ENGLAND; 16th CENTURY; COLOUR; MASQUES] 10 Baclawski, Karen. The Guide to Historic Costume. Foreword by Negley Harte of the Pasold Research Fund. London: B.T. Batsford, 1995. 239 pages. Glossary: [232]. Bibliography: [240]. ISBN: 0713460601; 0713480947 (pbk). 268 B&W photographs of surviving garments. “This book is a reference work organised in dictionary format. Each entry provides a discussion of the history and development of the garment in question as it relates to surviving examples, and lists various examples housed in English, Scottish and Welsh museums or public collections.” [p. 16] The weight of the work is in 18th-20th century clothing, although some garments are relevant, including a few medieval shoes and hats, 16th or early 17th century shirts, supportasses (for the prevention of ruff-droop), a woman’s loose gown in the ropa style and a boy’s leather jerkin. A readable guide, but more useful for the Jane Austen Society. [ENGLAND; GLOSSARIES; FOOTWEAR; HEADGEAR; UNDERCLOTHING; SURVIVING GARMENTS] 11 Baines, Barbara Burman. Fashion Revivals: From the Elizabethan Age to the Present Day. London: Batsford, 1981. 191 pages. “Guide to Further Reading”: 187-188. Index: 189-191. ISBN: 0713419296. 144 B&W and 4 colour illustrations: portraits, original drawings and photographs. People have been dressing up in fashions inspired by the past for a very long time. Baines picks up the sequence of revivals in the mid-16th century, when a general interest in historic and exotic costumes, particularly for elaborate masques, was cause and consequence of the new genre of costume books. Although the book is a good read, its use for recreators is largely in giving a feel for trends affecting Elizabethan and Jacobean dress. Shows pictures of Elizabethan embroidered sleeves, and a stunning late-Elizabethan gown with dagged sleeves in the Gothic style. [ENGLAND; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY; FASHION TRENDS - REVIVALS; MASQUES] Barraclough, Geoffrey. Ed. See Ffoulkes, C.J. 12 Barsis, Max. The Common Man Through the Centuries: A Book of Costume Drawings. New York: Ungar, 1973. xiii, 354 pages. “Sources for this book” in essay form: ix-xiii. Index "A guide to the pictures" by country and century: 349-354. ISBN: 0804410755. c. 340 B&W interpretive line drawings. Costume books tend to concentrate on the clothing of the powerful, prosperous and picturesque, since they are most likely to have left records of their clothing. This is a welcome antidote to that focus, but could have been better. The line drawings are tantalisingly hazy, sometimes showing unusual garments, but since there is no direct source for any of the garments (the sources are discussed in a general way in the introduction), it is difficult to trace the origins of these drawings to learn more about the garments. Covers classical times to the end of the 18th century, with a strong emphasis on the 16th and 17th centuries. [SURVEYS; COMMONERS; SERVANTS] 13 Barton Lucy. Historic Costume for the Stage. London: Adam and Charles Black, 1935. Ill. David Sarvis. x, 605 pages. Bibliography: 589-595. Index: 596-605. ISBN: none. 76 pages of B&W line drawings of costumes, often 6 to a page, some loosely based on artworks. The first half of the book is of interest. The text of each section offers advice on the materials, colours and motifs, as well as a short summary of the costume of men, women, soldiers and clergy, and a description of typical settings which might be used for stage settings. Fairly good for the theatre, and under the heading “Practical Reproduction” has some useful tips for faking things. Only generally useful for recreation. [THEATRE; SURVEYS; ECCLESIASTICAL] 14 Batey, Colleen, Helen Clarke, R.I. Page and Neil S. Price. Cultural Atlas of the Viking World. Ed. James Graham-Campbell. New York: Facts On File, 1994. 240 pages. Glossary: 224-226. Bibliography: 227-228. Index: 235-240. ISBN: 0816030049. Photographs of original and reconstructed items and sites, maps, and coloured drawings. Included on the basis of one page–page 67–which is a self-contained summary of Viking clothing with drawings showing the best guesses of the time. Also photos of original shoes and brooches. A good summary page to give new recreators an idea of Viking clothing, although I gather the women’s “caftan” dress has been reinterpreted once again. The book is generally sound and interesting, with lots of photos of useful items to recreate. Scope is mostly Scandinavia in the 9th-11th centuries, bearing in mind that the “Viking World” covered a lot of ground (from Kiev and Constantinople to Ireland and possibly Newfoundland) and the introduction and conclusion cover a lot of time; there are photos of the clothes from the Early Bronze Age burial at Egtved (p. 24) and of one of the mid-14th century Herjolfsnes hoods (p. 223). [VIKING; SCANDINAVIA; EARLY – GERMANIC; SURVIVING GARMENTS] Beard, Charles. See Cunnington, C. Willett. A Dictionary of English Costume. 15 Beedell, Suzanne. Brasses and Brass Rubbing. Edinburgh: John Bartholomew, 1973. 96 pages. Bibliography: 94. Index: 95-96. ISBN: 0851529399. 95 B&W illustrations of brasses, brass rubbings, the process of making brass rubbings and diagrams of the parts of armour. Memorial brasses are an important source of information about clothing from the 13th to the 16th centuries. This smallish guide contains many examples of brasses, often with details of head attire or belts, and includes discussion of the context of brasses. Of particular interest is the way it takes the reader through the different types of garments and armours worn over the centuries, both in the descriptive text and with the aid of diagrams naming the parts of armour. [ENGLAND; ARMOUR; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; 16th CENTURY; ACCESSORIES; HEADGEAR] 16 Birbari, Elizabeth. Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500. London: Murray, 1975. ISBN: 0719524237. c. 115 B&W photographs of paintings. Line drawings of clothing cut and style. A good resource for Italian Renaissance clothing. Looks closely at paintings of the time to figure out how they are put together, showing–among other things–that many of the “fantasy” garments in mythical scenes were quite possibly variants of basic clothing of the time. Readable text discusses household accounts and letters which mention clothing and fabric. Gives dates for variations in the cut of sleeves, and interesting chapters on fastenings and veils. [ART; CONSTRUCTION; ITALY; 15th CENTURY; PATTERNS] 17 Bishop, M. C. and J.C.N. Coulston. Roman Military Equipment: From the Punic Wars to the Fall of Rome. London: Batsford, 1993. 256 pages. Bibliography: [231]-247. Index: [248]-256. ISBN: 0713466375. 143 B&W figures and 8 pages of plates showing artworks, detailed archaeological drawings of surviving items, and reconstructions. A scholarly and approachable guide to Roman military equipment. Examines the types of evidence–representational, archaeological and documentary–goes chronologically through the time of the dominance of the Roman Empire, from the Republican period to the Dominate, and concludes with chapters on production and technology, and the study of military equipment. Good theoretical grounding, good representations and explanations of gear, as well as discussion of the history of interpretation, showing previous attempts to reconstruct the lorica segmentata and explaining the current debates about the accuracy of the carvings on Trajan’s Column. An excellent source for Roman military kit, with a fair bit which is applicable to men’s clothing and accessories. [EARLY – ROMAN; ARMOUR; WEAPONS; ACCESSORIES] 18 Blum, André. Early Bourbon, 1590-1643. Vol. 3, no. 6 of Costume of the Western World. London: Harrap, [1951]. 28 pages. Bibliography: 28. ISBN: none. 66 plates, 8 of them coloured, showing artworks from the time. Browse the pictures, read the notes that go with them, and take a short tour through the short essay on clothing of this period. Gives lists of fanciful colour names, reference to the sobering influence which the Bourbon monarchs had on clothing, and indications of the bout of decorative fashion which was to follow. [FRANCE; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY; COLOURS] 19 Blum, André. The Last Valois, 1515-90. Vol. 3, no. 2 of Costume of the Western World. London, Harrap, 1951. 28 pages, followed by 40 pages of plates. Bibliography: 28. ISBN: none. 71 plates on 40 pages, 8 pages colour. All are of paintings, drawings and engravings–mostly portraits–from the period. Good pictures. The text is not as good as some others in the Costume of the Western World series, so check Blum’s assertions against other sources. His statements about women’s headgear on p. 16 are particularly suspect. [FRANCE; 16th CENTURY] 20 Bonfante, Larissa. Etruscan Dress. Baltimore and London: The John Hopkins University Press, 1975. [244] pages. “Bibliography and Abbreviations”: 213-230. “Sources for Illustrations”: 231-232. Index: 233-243. ISBN: 0801816408. 164 B&W photographs and line drawings of artworks. There is little published on Etruscan dress, and less in English. Bonfante fills the gap with a work on these people whose clothing often bridged the gap between Greek and more orientalised Roman styles. A chronological table of Greek and Etruscan dress lists not only the garments that were worn, but those represented on statues which were probably not worn in real life. Chapters discuss fabrics and patterns, perizoma and belts, chiton and tunic, mantles, shoes, hats, hairstyles and beards, and foreign influences and local styles. There are appendices on “Strange costumes and special problems” and vocabulary. [EARLY – ETRUSCAN; EARLY – GREEK; EARLY – ROMAN; FOOTWEAR; HEADGEAR] Bonfante, Larissa. See also Sebesta, Judith Lynn. The World of Roman Costume. 21 Boucher, François. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. New York: Harry N. Abrams, [1967]. 441 pages. General bibliography: 423. Glossary: 425-436. Index: 437-440. SBN: 810900564. 1150 illustrations, some colour, of artworks and a fair few original items, including shoes and jewellery as well as garments. About a third of the work is concerned with the period in question. One of the more solid surveys, in both content and presentation. Covers its extensive field surprisingly well for a survey, and is a most useful browser which has the attraction of being generally reliable. Written from a French perspective, which means it acknowledges the existence of Merovingians and has more continental content than the English sources. Not a book where you can go directly to the information you need: the chapter headings are not always a good guide and there is some doubling back in time. [SURVEYS; ILLUSTRATIONS; SURVIVING GARMENTS; JEWELRY; FOOTWEAR] |