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45 Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. Handbook of English Mediaeval Costume. Illustrations by Barbara Phillipson and Catherine Lucas. London: Faber, 1969. Rev. ed. (First published 1952.) 210 pages. Bibliography: 190-194. Index: 203-210. SBN: 571046703.
Line drawings from noted original sources. 3 leaves of coloured plates.
“The aim of this Handbook is to present in a concise form a systematic account of English Mediaeval Costume, from A.D. 800 to A.D. 1500.” (p. 6) The Cunningtons achieved their aim so well that this book remains the leading source for systematic and descriptive classification of medieval English clothing. A densely packed treasure, small enough to be easily comprehensible, yet detailed enough to list the components of dress for each century or half-century, giving the dates when alternative styles were fashionable, and mentioning when and by whom certain garments would be worn. This is not a physically impressive volume, but any who ignore it in favour of the more lavishly illustrated browsing books are missing out on a framework for understanding and a depth of explanation which is still rarely found elsewhere.
[ENGLAND; 9th CENTURY; 10th CENTURY; 11th CENTURY; 12th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; CHILDREN; ACCESSORIES; FOOTWEAR; HEADGEAR]


46 Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. The History of Underclothes. London: Michael Joseph, 1951. 266 pages. Bibliography: [259]-260. Index: [263]-266. ISBN: none.
119 B&W illustrations, including photographs of surviving garments, artworks, advertising and cartoons, and line redrawings of garments from artworks.
Chapter 1 covers the medieval period and chapter 2 covers 1485-1625. From the Cunningtons’ earlier work, still showing the heavy influence of Freud in comments on the sex attraction—or lack of it—of certain styles of underwear. Shows a number of shirts, smocks and pairs of drawers from the 16th and 17th centuries (mostly Italian or Swedish), and discusses artworks showing chemise edges and the like. Follows Norris a little too closely on the idea of 12th-century corseting, drawing the so-called “corset” in its context but outlining it in such a way that it appears to be a distinct garment rather than the laced body draperies seen in the original. Also tends to assume that medieval references to a garment called a corset or corsettus in royal trousseaux are corsets in the modern form of the word, rather than what we would now identify as a form of cloak which could be worn as a dressing gown. Unlike later works by the Cunningtons, the early chapters here show a willingness to extrapolate a little too freely on the basis of inadequate evidence. An introduction, with some jewels and some nuggets of more dubious worth. Recently reprinted by Dover.
[UNDERCLOTHING; ENGLAND; ITALY; SCANDINAVIA; SURVIVING GARMENTS]


47 Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. A Picture History of English Costume. [S.l.]: Vista Books, 1960. 160 pages. ISBN: none.
441 B&W plates of photographs and artworks, with dates. Middle Ages to 20th century, England.
Many of the line drawings which the Cunningtons used in their handbooks of English costume were derived from manuscripts, paintings, etchings and fashion plates which are here shown in their original form. The book consists primarily of pictures, with brief summaries of clothing trends at the beginning of each chapter. The captions point out features of the illustrated clothing, explaining that a certain wig is characteristic of doctors or a certain decorative feature is now behind the times. Most of the book is post-1600, and an excellent resource for later recreation. The medieval section draws heavily on the Luttrell Psalter (not necessarily a bad thing). About the only warning is that some of the Anglo-Saxon illustrations look as through they have been taken from Strutt’s etchings made in the 1790s, rather than directly from the original manuscripts. Interesting Tudor portraits of non-royals.
[ENGLAND – SURVEYS; ILLUSTRATIONS]


48 Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington, and Charles Beard. A Dictionary of English Costume. London: Adam & Charles Black, 1976. Originally published 1960. [vii], 284 pages. Glossary of Materials: 241-280. Glossary of Laces: 281-283. Obsolete Colour Names (Prior to 1800): 284. ISBN: 0713603704.
“With 303 line illustrations by Cecil Everitt and Phillis Cunnington.”
The terms explained are primarily from the 17th-19th centuries, but there is sound—although brief—discussion of a number of terms applied to medieval clothing. It is refreshing to see a definition begin like this one “Goffered Veil, Nebula Head-Dress: 19th-c. terms for a head-dress worn by women from c. 1350 to 1420.” The Cunningtons are confident with their material. Likely to be of occasional use to cast light on a costume or textile term.
[GLOSSARIES; ENGLAND]


49 Cunnington, Phillis. Costume of Household Servants: From the Middle Ages to 1900. London: Adam and Charles Black, 1974. ix, 165 pages. Bibliography: 153-159. Index: 161-165. ISBN: 0713613939.
1 coloured plate, 48 B&W plates, all of artworks. 97 B&W line drawings, either from artworks or of etchings and Punch-style cartoons.
Sections on “Classification of servants: their titles and occupations”, “Livery”, “Dress in general”, “Men servants’ costume of the more outstanding types”, “Women servants’ costume–special features”. The sections on medieval servants are mixed in with information about servants through the centuries. Useful illustrations supporting the idea that, for instance, the head was left uncovered when serving at table (even by a rare example of a 14th century female cupbearer). There are snippets of interesting information about the type and number of servants in certain noble households, down to the two Rockers to rock the cradle in the nursery of a 16th century Earl of Northumberland. As with any Cunnington book, sources are given and can be traced. It is typical of the later Cunnington books, however, that they are a little more rambling and general interest than the titles of their middle years.
[ENGLAND; SERVANTS; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY]

Cunnington, Phillis. See also Cunnington, C. Willett. Handbook of English Mediaeval Costume.

Cunnington, Phillis. See also Cunnington, C. Willett. Handbook of English Costume in the Seventeenth Century.

Cunnington, Phillis. See also Cunnington, C. Willett. Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth Century.

Cunnington, Phillis. See also Cunnington, C. Willett. A Picture History of English Costume.

Cunnington, Phillis. See also Cunnington, C. Willett, Phillis Cunnington and Charles Beard. A Dictionary of English Costume.




50 Cunnington, Phillis, and Anne Buck. Children's Costume in England: From the Fourteenth to the end of the Nineteenth Century. London: Adam & Charles Black, 1965. 236 pages. Bibliography: [226]-229. Index: [231]-236. ISBN: none.
32 B&W plates of original sources and numerous B&W line drawings from original sources.
A chapter per century on the clothing of children and young people in England. Good quotations from wardrobe records and descriptions. If the coverage feels a little patchy, it’s because this is not a subject which has been studied (or, for that matter, recorded) in great detail. Not as satisfying as one would like, but still probably the best current resource on this topic.
[ENGLAND; CHILDREN; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY]


51 Cunnington, Phillis, and Catherine Lucas. Charity Costumes of Children, Scholars, Almsfolk, Pensioners. London: Adam & Charles Black, 1978. x, 331 pages. Index: [318]-327. "Index of Textiles": [329]-331. ISBN: 0713617365.
184 B&W illustrations: photographs, plates and line drawings.
Traces “the history in England of clothing provided for poor people of all sorts by charity; that is to say clothing given in kind by a wide range of benevolent individuals and groups, but not including supplies given out as statutory relief, nor hand-me-downs from masters to servants.” (p. x). Chapters deal with uniforms for charity schools, people in almshouses, university scholars, young people in training, homes for children and young women, the armed forces and pensioners. Many of the types of charity distribution of clothing began during the 15th and 16th centuries, such as the series of almshouses founded by bequest of Dick Whittington which were completed by 1424, and the many poor schools established during Tudor times. Information about the normal clothing of people who were not of high station is scattered through the book, along with much social history.
[ENGLAND; COMMONERS; CHILDREN; ACADEMIC]


52 Cunnington, Phillis, and Catherine Lucas. Costume for Births, Marriages & Deaths. London: A. and C. Black, 1972. 331 pages. “Select Bibliography”: [303]-313. Index: [317]-331. ISBN: 0713611928.
64 B&W plates and 104 B&W figures drawn from artworks and surviving garments.
Chapters on the clothing appropriate to the various festivals marking the course of life, from clothing for pregnancy and lying abed, to swaddling (which might be spiral- or cross-bound) and christening, children’s wear, weddings of the ordinary folk and the grand folk, funeral shrouds and mourning. Mentions the use of white for mourning and the wearing of long hair loose for weddings and coronations. Discusses customs for the occasions as well as clothes, with reference to contemporary textual and pictorial sources. Cover medieval times (about the 13th century) to the 19th century, but a fair proportion is marked as medieval and Renaissance.
[CHILDREN; WOMEN – PREGNANCY; WEDDINGS; FUNEREAL; ENGLAND]


53 Cunnington, Phillis, and Alan Mansfield. English Costume for Sports and Outdoor Recreation from the Sixteenth to the Nineteenth Centuries. London, Black, 1969. 388 pages. Bibliography: [363]-366. Index: [377]-388. ISBN: 0713610174.
254 B&W line drawings, 65 plates (1 colour).
Organised in 22 chapters by type of sport or outdoor recreation, from cricket to archery, to hawking to picnics. Mostly later than our period, although—despite the title—there are pictures of people fishing from the 15th century, hawking from the 14th century and 1575, and practising archery from c.1510. A sparse source for recreators, but worth checking if you want to know what you would have worn to play football c.1610.
[ENGLAND; SPORTS]


54.1 da Monticello, Catarina [Joyce Cottrell] “Since You Ask.” Compleat Anachronist 38, 1988. 46-61. Bibliography: 60-61.
10 B&W line drawings, including sourced diagrams of the cut of surviving garments from the 11th to 13th centuries.
54.2 da Monticello, Catarina [Joyce Cottrell] “Since You Ask: Patterns 1340, 1380, 1420.” Compleat Anachronist 39, 1988. 34-54. Bibliography: 53-54.
20 B&W line redrawings from named sources in artworks.
54.3 da Monticello, Catarina [Joyce Cottrell] “Since You Ask: Hill & Bucknell Patterns 1440, 1470, 1485.” Compleat Anachronist 40, 1988. 12-23.
3 B&W line redrawings from named sources in artworks.
54.4 da Monticello, Catarina [Joyce Cottrell] “Since You Ask: Hill & Bucknell Patterns for the 16th Century.” Compleat Anachronist 40, 1988. 24-31.
1 B&W line redrawings.
A series of articles commenting on the book The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and Cut from 1066 to 1930 (London: Batsford, 1967) by Margot Hamilton Hill and Peter A. Bucknell. Examines the claims Hill and Bucknell make for their work, presents a short discussion of the development of clothing over the period, and analyses the clothing described by Hill and Bucknell for the years from 1066 to 1595. Gives sources (where they exist) for Hill and Bucknell's drawings, points out discrepancies, and makes recommendations for better sources of information for the clothing of each time. An essential companion work to a book which is often used by recreators new to the game.
[COMMENTARY; ENGLAND; 12th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; 16th CENTURY]

da Monticello, Caterina. See also de Rheims, Audelindis. [Linda Rheims Fox] and Catarina da Monticello [Joyce Cottrell]. “General Bibliography of Costume.”




55 Davenport, Millia. The Book of Costume. New York: Crown, 1948. Printed in two volumes: vol. I: 1-468; vol. 2: 469-958. “Appendix of Sources”: 935-945. Index: 946-958. ISBN: none.
2778 B&W photographs of artworks and artifacts.
Hugely influential work, being an annotated collection of B&W photographs of costume resource material from art and archaeology. Just about every artwork that has become known and reproduced in later costume books is found here, along with pictures of dated items of clothing which could, with some benefit, be circulated again. Figures 435-446 show the parts of armour and the development of styles of various pieces of fighting gear over the centuries. Suffers somewhat from dark and grainy reproduction of photographs, but invaluable nonetheless.
[SURVEYS; ILLUSTRATIONS; ARMOUR; SURVIVING GARMENTS]

de la Haye, Amy. See Laver, James. Costume and Fashion.




56 de Marly, Diana. Costume on the Stage, 1600-1940. London: Batsford, 1982. 167 pages. Bibliography: 160-162. Index: 165-167. ISBN: 0713437707.
100 photographs and drawings for and of stage costumes.
A history of stage costume which does include some information on 16th century masquing costumes.
[ENGLAND; 16th CENTURY; THEATRE; MASQUES]


57 de Marly, Diana. Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History. London: Batsford, 1985. 166 pages. Bibliography: 160-[162]. Index: 163-166. ISBN: 0713444932.
96 B&W illustrations from contemporary sources.
A decidedly readable history of men's clothing from the 14th century to the early 1980s, with one chapter on medieval clothing (“A Verray Parfil Gentil Knight”: mostly 1300s), another on the gear of the Renaissance (“Renaissance Man”) and a third on the 1600s and early 1700s (“Effeminate and Wanton Age”). De Marly uses contemporary sources (wardrobe records, accounts, correspondence, etc) in her account of the clothing of each time. Fairly brief, and mostly—but not entirely—English. The author is very keen to show the relation between clothing and gender. Worth a look for background reading and to send you off in search of large colour copies of the illustrations.
[MEN; ENGLAND; 14th CENTURY; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY; TUDOR; STUART]


58 de Marly, Diana. Working Dress: A History of Occupational Clothing. London: Batsford, 1986. 191 pages. Bibliography: 183-187. Index: 188-191. ISBN: 0713450282.
92 B&W illustrations and 8 colour plates from contemporary sources.
Although the book is a good account of its subject, the section on pre-1600 working dress is one brief introductory chapter which touches lightly on the clothing of more than a millennium. Except in the most general of senses, there is not enough information here to work with. The chapter on the seventeenth century—one of de Marly's specialities—is a dramatic improvement.
[COMMONERS; SERVANTS; ENGLAND; SURVEYS; 17th CENTURY]

de Neergaard, Margrethe. See Grew, Francis. Shoes and Pattens.




59 de Rheims, Audelindis [Linda Rheims Fox] and Catarina da Monticello [Joyce Cottrell]. “General Bibliography of Costume.” Compleat Anachronist. 39. September 1988. 1-33. ISSN: none.
No illustrations.
A very interesting bibliography for recreators. Informed, informative and opinionated: “All the figures here look like left-over hippies.” Frustrating for New Zealanders because so many of the titles are not held in New Zealand, but might be an incentive to international interloan for the dedicated.
[BIBLIOGRAPHIES]


60 Dreher, Denise. From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking. Minneapolis, MN: Madhatter Press, 1981. 200 pages. Glossary: 185-194. Bibliography: 195-199. ISBN: 0941082008.
Numerous decorative etchings of Victorian women. B&W photographs and line drawings showing hatmaking techniques. Graphed patterns for hats and headdresses.
An introduction to modern millinery techniques. Its reputation as a good source for recreators is based on its clear communication of technical and design skills for hatmaking, and not on the rather dubious patterns it proffers as historical.
[HEADGEAR; CONSTRUCTION – MODERN]


61 Dunbar, John Telfer. History of Highland Dress: A Definitive Study of the History of Scottish Costume and Tartan, both Civil and Military, including Weapons: With an Appendix on Early Scottish Dyes by Annette Kok. Edinburgh: Oliver & Boyd, 1962. xii, 248 pages. Bibliography: [241].
58 plates, some colour.
The introduction states that Dunbar, unimpressed by the repetitious nature of previous works on Scottish clothing where “[t]he application of scissors and paste was rather more in evidence than research into fresh material and practical ‘field’ work” (p.vii) set out to remedy the lack. This work focuses on later times, from the start of the 17th century, when there is sufficient evidence to make supported statements about the clothing of the Scots, and yields to H.F. McClintock, author of Old Irish and Highland Dress (1950), the time up to the beginning of the 17th century. Some of the information in the general introductions to each section is useful, and there is an appendix of the natural dyestuffs used in Scotland that may well prove interesting to dyers. Good history of the development of the modern kilt.
[SCOTLAND; 17th CENTURY; DYES and DYEING; WEAPONS]


61A Dunleavy, Mairead. Dress in Ireland. London: B.T. Batsford, 1989. 192 pages. “Select Glossary”: 187-189. Index: 190-192. ISBN: 071345251X.
129 B&W ills, 8 col. plates. Ills are of surviving garments and artworks showing clothing.
Major book on Irish clothing. Covers the Bronze Age to the 19th century, ending with an appendix on 19th and 20th century Irish “folk costume”. The first three chapters are “Early Ireland”, “Medieval Ireland: 1300-1500” and “The Sixteenth Century”. Each chapter begins with a summary of the historical setting and ends with lists of textiles used at that time. The pictures include B&W images of many surviving garments. Makes use of literary sources and financial accounts. The medieval section feels a bit sparse because so much time is covered in one chapter.
[IRELAND; SURVIVING GARMENTS]
East , Katherine. See Bruce-Mitford, Rupert. The Sutton Hoo Ship-Burial.


62 Edge, David, and John Miles Paddock. Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight. London: Bison, 1988. [192] pages. Glossary: 183-189. Index: [190]-[192]. ISBN: 0861244141.
Numerous illustrations, some colour, showing artworks and surviving pieces of weaponry and armour.
An excellent introduction to arms and armour which concentrates on the medieval and Renaissance timespan. Good illustrations, good text, useful glossary and a section at the back showing close-ups of the inside and details of armours. Good binding, good paper, has an example of most things you’re likely to want to know about and groups information by time so you’re likely to find all the relevant details in one lump.
[WEAPONS; ARMOUR; EARLY – GERMANIC; ANGLO-SAXON; 11th CENTURY; 12th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; 16th CENTURY; TOURNAMENTS; ENGLAND; FRANCE; SCANDINAVIA]


63 Egan, Geoff and Frances Pritchard. Dress Accessories, c.1150-c. 1450. Vol 3 of Medieval Finds from Excavations in London. London: HMSO, 1991. xi, 410 pages. Bibliography: 402-410. ISBN: 0112904440.
269 B&W illustrations, including photos of excavated accessories, many scale drawings and cross-sections, photographs and drawings of supporting costume sources. Scale is indicated for all catalogued items. 12 colour plates, each with 2-8 photographs of the items.
An excellent guide to medieval dress accessories. The Medieval Finds from Excavations in London series by the Museum of London is a boon to recreators, showing and explaining artifacts from medieval rubbish dumps which had been used to reclaim land on the banks of the Thames. The items are mostly everyday gear, sometimes showing signs of heavy use and breakage, rather than the “portrait best” which tends to survive in artworks. “Accessories” here do not include footwear (they’re in Shoes and Pattens by Grew and de Neergard) or hoods (which can be found in Textiles and Clothing by Crowfoot, Pritchard and Staniland). However, Dress Accessories has chapters on many types of accessory: girdles, buckles, strap-ends, mounts, combinations of diverse strap fittings and possible ensuite items, brooches, buttons, lace chapes (which are the metal tags on the ends of laces to help thread them through eyelets), hair accessories, pins, beads, chains, pendants, finger rings, bells, purses, cased mirrors, combs, cosmetic sets and needlecases. If you want to see the remains of a plaited silk hair-piece, or front, back and side views of buttons, this is the book for you. Unparalleled as a resource.
[ENGLAND; ACCESSORIES; JEWELRY: SURVIVING GARMENTS; PATTERNS; 12th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY]


64 Embleton, Gerry, and John Howe. The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs. London: Windrow & Greene, 1994. 144 pages. ISBN: 1859150365.
Approximately 270 photographs of re-enactors in reconstructed clothing.
Many photographs and an informative text from the Swiss-based “Company of Saynte George”, a living history group with high standards of authenticity which focuses on the 1470s. The Company’s interests are largely military, so armour and the clothing worn in military camps are particularly well-represented, although not to the exclusion of women’s dress or urban clothing. Good examples of late 15th century houppelande styles for the fighting and artisan classes. Particularly interesting for the full sets of accoutrements: personal accessories, camping gear, barracks and urban interiors.
[15th CENTURY; LIVING HISTORY; WEAPONS; ARMOUR]


65 Emery, Joy Spanabel. Stage Costume Techniques. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, 1981. 362 pages. Index: 356-362. ISBN: 013 8403309.
17 B&W and 4 colour illustrations: photos of theatrical costumes, techniques for manufacture, charts and guidelines for preparation.
A theatre costume book useful for its explanations of techniques for construction of clothing. As well as sections about pattern drafting and moving shaping from darts to seams, there are instructions on steaming felt for hats and a solid introduction to textiles and costuming materials. Not recommended for the costumes it shows.
[THEATRE; CONSTRUCTION – MODERN]

Endrei, Walter. See Harte, N.B. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe.

Eubank, Keith. See Tortora, Phyllis. A Survey of Historic Costume.

Evans, Angela Care. See Bruce-Mitford, Rupert. The Sutton Hoo Ship-Burial.



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