Ana səhifə

Libr 550 bibliography goodly Gear


Yüklə 413.5 Kb.
səhifə6/13
tarix26.06.2016
ölçüsü413.5 Kb.
1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   ...   13

22 Bradfield, Nancy. Historical Costumes of England: From the Eleventh Century to the Twentieth Century. London: Harrap, 1958. New ed. Originally published 1938. [184] pages. Bibliography (of other costume books): 184. ISBN: none.
B&W interpretive drawings on pages facing the text. The first 83 pages cover the reigns of English sovereigns before James.
Although this has coloured many recreators’ ideas of costume, it is not of the best, being prone to generalisations of other costume writers’ generalisations. A browser: for serious work use sources closer to the originals.
[ENGLAND – SURVEYS]


23 Braun and Schneider (original publishers: no other author information is offered). Historic Costume in Pictures. New York: Dover Publications, 1975. No page numbers given (125 pages, each printed on a double spread, preceded by one page of “Publisher's Note” and two of “List of Plates”). ISBN: 048623150X.
250 pages of interpretive B&W etchings, based (with varying degrees of accuracy) on original artworks.
A gathering together of an occasional series of plates published between 1861 and 1890, first issued as a single volume in 1874 and revised with additions from then until the end of the century. The first third takes us up to 1600 and there is a sizeable section on the 17th century. German focus, but general survey scope including ancient civilisations. An old-style browser which redraws armour and dresses in a “realistic” style while leaving the original artistic conventions intact. This gives mail armour, for instance, a most unusual appearance, and may well have encouraged the idea that people wore “ring-mail” and “scale-mail”. Has a knack of making silhouettes look odd. Later centuries are better served, but try tracing the original illustrations before costuming.
[SURVEYS]

Britnell, Richard. See Sutton, Anne.




24 Brooke, Iris. English Costume Series. London: A.& C. Black, 1934-1948. Each 87 pages (+ advertising for the other books at the back).
24.1 English Costume of the Early Middle Ages: The Tenth to the Thirteenth Centuries. 1948.
24.2 English Costume of the Later Middle Ages: The Fourteenth & Fifteenth Centuries. 1948.
24.3 English Costume of the Age of Elizabeth. 1938.
24.4 English Costume of the Seventeenth Century. 1934.
Line drawings, some coloured, facing text. Some illustrations freely interpreted from original sources.
The accurate information presented in this series can better be gleaned from other sources which do not mix it with more dubious representations.
[ENGLAND – SURVEYS]


25 Brooke, Iris. Footwear: A Short History of European and American Shoes. London: Pitman, 1974. First published 1972. 131 pages. ISBN: 0273361392.
66 figures: line drawings
A general introduction to footwear, with about the first half of the book relevant to our time period. A reasonable summary of what was believed about historical shoes in the early 1970s, with all that that entails. Uses passages from literature to advance arguments. Some few drawings may be from original shoes. Although the title says “European” the chapters take their titles from the reigns of English sovereigns, which is a fair indicator of the actual scope.
[FOOTWEAR; SURVEYS]


26 Brooke, Iris. A History of English Costume. 2nd edition. London: Methuen, 1946. First edition 1937. [224] pages. ISBN: none.
142 B&W line drawings and 4 colour plates by the author. Highly interpretive
By reign from William the Conqueror to Victoria. There are better sources for every period covered. Brooke has the occasional interesting snippet, but her free adaptations and lack of description of sources make this work of limited use.
[ENGLAND – SURVEYS]


27 Brooke, Iris. Medieval Theatre Costume: A Practical Guide to the Construction of Garments. London: Adam & Charles Black, 1967. [112] pages. Index: [112]. ISBN: none.
56 B&W line drawings. 16 pages of pattern layouts on scaled graph paper.
Covers a wide range of topics which might be of use to theatrical productions costumed in medieval style. A sometimes-disconcerting blend of quite good historical detail with theatrical pragmatism. In general, it is not an accurate guide for recreation, but it presents some useful ways of faking things well. Patterns are likewise variable: this is one of the few works to illustrate bias cuts using the semi-circle and the diagonally-sliced rectangle, but there is no attempt to show gusset and gore piecing. Covers basic heraldry, how to costume the Devil, and how to make stage animals. Some interesting passages from medieval theatrical manuscripts.
[THEATRE; PATTERNS – MODERN]


28 Brooke-Little, John. Knights of the Middle Ages: Their Armour and Coats of Arms. London: Hugh Evelyn, 1966. Un-numbered pages. ISBN: none.
12 coloured illustrations taken from memorial brasses, with small B&W outline drawings of the royal arms at the time of each brass.
Oddity seems to be a characteristic of costume works published by Hugh Evelyn, and this large-format (54cm x 37cm) coffee-table book is a little short on traditional book features, such as page numbers. The work looks at one dozen titled and well-known knights, from William Marshal (c.1146-1219) to Henry Stafford (1455-1483). The text, written when John Brooke-Little was Bluemantle Pursuivant of Arms, gives a reasonable run-down on the life of each knight, the arms they bear, and the armour they are shown wearing. The drawings of the brasses are large and detailed.
[ENGLAND; ARMOUR]


29 Bruce-Mitford, Rupert, et al. The Sutton Hoo Ship-Burial. London: British Museum Publications, 1975-1983. 3 vols. ISBN: 071411331X.
Well over a thousand illustrations, mostly B&W scale photographs or detailed drawings of artifacts from the Sutton Hoo ship burial.
This report on the finds at the Sutton Hoo ship burial is substantial in both content and mass. The analytic techniques applied to the recovered items are remarkable and the quality of scholarship is excellent. These are books you can drown in for days. For costumers, the relevant sections are those concerned with arms, armour and regalia in volume 2, and with textiles, shoes, and accessories such as strap-ends and combs in chapters of volume 3.
29.1 Volume 2: “Arms, Armour and Regalia.” Rupert Bruce-Mitford. 651 pages. Bibliography: 626-639. Index: 641-651.
24 colour plates and 443 B&W figures, all of artifacts from Sutton Hoo or comparable artifacts from elsewhere. Scale photographs, detailed and accurate drawings, diagrams and reconstructions.
Chapters cover the shield, the gilt-bronze ring from the shield, the helmet, the mailcoat, spears and angons, the sword, and the gold jewellery. The level of detail will give you a fair idea not only of the appearance of the sword, but of the techniques used to forge it and the impurities found in the metal. As the writers try to find the most plausible reconstruction of each item, they give examples of other similar items, so this is also a guide to the general state of knowledge about material culture of the time.
29.2 Volume 3: Chapter 4. “The Textiles.” Elisabeth Crowfoot. p. 409-479. Glossary: 478-479.
47 B&W figures of textiles and weave patterns from Sutton Hoo and elsewhere. Scale photographs, detailed and accurate drawings, and diagrams.
Discussion of fibres and their preparation, looms, colours and dyes, and clothing. There is a catalogue of the textiles found at the Sutton Hoo ship burial and appendices on wool from Anglo-Saxon sites, dye analysis and textiles from Sutton Hoo and other similar sites.
29.3 Chapter 11 “Buckles, strap-ends and related objects.” Rupert Bruce-Mitford. 758-787.
24 B&W figures of bits of buckles and fittings. Scale photographs and accurate drawings.
About a dozen pieces of buckles, buckle-mounts, strap-ends and catches were retrieved from the Sutton Hoo ship burial. All are shown here in scale photographs and described at some length in the text.
29.4 Chapter 12 “The Shoes.” Katherine East. 788-812.
16 B&W figures of artifacts from Sutton Hoo or comparable artifacts from elsewhere. Scale photographs, detailed and accurate drawings, diagrams and reconstructions.
Fragments of four turnshoes (which do indeed appear to be two pairs) were found at Sutton Hoo, with a range of bronze and silver buckles, fasteners and latchets. East describes the construction and typical wear patterns on turnshoes, shows artworks of such shoes, and suggests reconstructions of the patterns.
29.5 Chapter 13 “The Combs.” Angela Care Evans and Patricia Galloway. 813-832.
14 B&W figures of combs from Sutton Hoo and elsewhere. Scale photographs, detailed and accurate drawings, diagrams and reconstructions.
Fragments of 3 bone combs, described and analysed.
[ANGLO-SAXON; TEXTILES; WEAPONS; ARMOUR; JEWELRY; FOOTWEAR; ACCESSORIES; SURVIVING GARMENTS; ARCHAEOLOGY]


30 Bruhn, Wolfgang and Max Tilke. A Pictorial History of Costume: A Survey of Costume of All Periods and Peoples from Antiquity to Modern Times Including National Costume in Europe and Non-European Countries. London: Zwemmer, [1955]. Reprinted London: Alpine Fine Arts Collection, 1991. 74 pages + 200 pages of plates. ISBN: 088168185 (Alpine Fine Arts reprint).
200 pages of plates, some coloured, mostly of interpretive drawings “representing nearly 4000 specimens of costumes” (p. [5]). Many plates laid out in three rows, showing a variety of figures in each row. Some plates are of photographs of artworks.
A browser. The redrawings give a general idea of shape and style, and the originals–particularly of sculpture–are interesting.
[SURVEYS]


31 Buchanan, Rita. A Weaver’s Garden. Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press, 1987. 230 pages. Glossary: 217-220. Index: 224-230. ISBN: 0934026289.
B&W drawings of plants and plans of gardens. 16 pages of colour plates showing dyed textiles and plants.
Buchanan is a botanist who also spins, dyes and weaves. Her book, written with the aid of the Herb Society of America’s 1985 Scholarship Grant, is both sound and accessible. Its interest for the recreator is that it contains much information about fibres, dyestuffs and clothmaking techniques from medieval and Renaissance Europe, alongside other references to New World plants and dyestuffs. Gives guidance for growing and using medieval dyestuffs such as woad, weld and madder; growing and processing flax and ramie for cloth; and even the appropriate teazle thistle once used to raise the nap on cloths. Approachable, interesting and informative.
[DYES and DYEING; COLOUR; TEXTILES]

Buck, Anne. See Cunnington, Phillis. Children's Costume in England.



Bucknell, Peter A. See Hill, Margot Hamilton. The Evolution of Fashion.


32 Bull, Stephen. An Historical Guide to Arms & Armour. London: Cassell, 1991. 224 pages. Index: 222-224. ISBN: 0304340553.
Numerous illustrations, about half of them in colour, of surviving arms and armour, and representations of arms and armour in sculpture, paintings, brasses, stained glass and photographs.
Well-bound, full of good pictures, and has been readily available. One of the standard picture books in most people’s armour collections because it gives examples of real armour and weapons, and shows clear contemporary images of the arms and armour in use. The only real problem is that the medieval/Renaissance portion is a bit small: the scope of the book is from classical times to the 19th century, with sections on oriental and tribal arms and armour (check out the Indian elephant armour on p. 175 and chakram on p. 176) as well as the usual Western survey view. Medieval and Renaissance tilting and tourneying armours are in the final chapter on sporting arms and armour.
[ARMOUR; WEAPONS; SURVEYS]


33 Burnham, Dorothy K. Cut My Cote. Royal Ontario Museum: Toronto, 1973. [36] pages. ISBN: none.
Illustrated with photographs and line drawings showing seams in surviving constructed garments and flat pattern layouts on widths of cloth.
The title comes from a proverb recorded in John Heywood’s Proverbs in the English Tongue in 1546: “I shall cut my cote after my cloth.” Burnham’s thesis is that the cutting of garments was in the past determined by the widths of cloth that came off the loom. In Cut My Cote she examines 28 garments, from a 5-6th century Coptic shirt to an early 20th century Korean coat, showing how the garment pieces, which are usually rectangles, triangles and truncated triangles, can be reassembled on rectangular pieces of cloth which fit with what we know of the loom-widths of the different times and places. This way of cutting produces very little wastage of fabric, which was once an expensive commodity. This would appear to be the approach used for cutting loose-fitting garments through our period (certainly for smocks and shirts) and probably for most close-fitting garments until the mid-14th century. If Burnham’s ideas seem self-evident these days, it is in the same way that Shakespeare’s plays are full of clichés. Her idea is one that is now accepted as a test of the likely accuracy of a proposed cut. Unfortunately, given the usefulness of this slim work, there are only two garments described which relate to the times and places under study, being a man’s shirt from 13th century France and a woman’s shirt, probably Italian, which dates from the 17th century but which seems to preserve a cut from the century before.
[PATTERNS – FROM SURVIVING GARMENTS; SURVIVING GARMENTS; CONSTRUCTION – THEORY]


34 Byrde, Penelope. The Male Image: Men's Fashion in Britain 1300-1970. London: Batsford, 1979. 240 pages. “Select Bibliography” (the better costume books): 233-234. Index: 235-240. ISBN: 071340860X.
142 B&W illustrations of artworks and photographs.
While the emphasis of the book is later than our time, there are good illustrations in the “Pictorial Survey” section, an introduction to trends in the chapter “The Suit I: to 1670” and sections on particular garments and types of dress in the later chapters on hair, mantles, accessories, hats, shoes etc. Text is a reasonable summary of the better preceding costume books, and the pictures include some not often seen elsewhere.
[ENGLAND; MEN; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY; FOOTWEAR; ACCESSORIES]


35 Calthrop, Dion Clayton. English Costume 1066-1820. London: A. & c. Black, 1907. First published in four volumes 1906. xvi, 463 pages. ISBN: none.
61 colour plates: watercolours by the author giving an impression of historic clothing. Numerous B&W line-drawn figures in the text.
Calthrop shows a love of the pageantry of history, and among the stories she tells are snippets that repay further study in an effort to figure out the identities and reliability of her sources. However, Calthrop has little to offer apart from the big picture: the illustrations are not particularly accurate or useful, dates are very approximate, and there is always uncertainty about whether what you’ve just read is justified.
[ENGLAND – SURVEYS]


36 Cassin-Scott, Jack. Costumes and Settings for Historical Plays. Volume 2: The Medieval Period. London: Batsford, 1979. 96 pages. Index: 95-96. ISBN: 0713417048.
Line redrawings: most B&W, 4 coloured. Sources not given, although some, especially for the later times, can be identified.
A book to browse before moving on to more substantial sources. Written for general and theatrical audiences, paying special attention to stage props of the time, this provides a broad introduction but is not sufficient to embark upon a costume. Redrawings are not reliable, although the errors are often not as egregious as those in other comparable works, being more in the drape and fold of garments. Dating of garments is not always reliable, and important geographical differences–some of them even mentioned in the text–are not noted in picture captions, giving the misleading idea that German styles were common in England. Be wary of Cassin-Scott’s costume vocabulary: he is prone to jargon malapropisms.
[THEATRE]


37 Cassin-Scott, Jack. The Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Costume and Fashion: From 1066 to the Present. London: Studio Vista, 1995. Reprint of a 1971 original. 193 pages. Glossary: 8-9. Index: 191-192. ISBN: 0289800935.
Colour illustrations, many redrawn from identifiable sources in art or other costume books. A list on p. 7 gives a brief statement of the source for each picture, although they tend to be unhelpful: try finding the original of “Almark Publishing”, “After MS. British Museum” or “Contemporary Continental Sources”.
The first two chapters of this work cover 1066-1550 and 1550-1620 (p. 11-32). Although the quality of the redrawings improves as the centuries pass, the plates of clothing from before 1480 are not recommended, and the plates from 1480-1620 should be used with care. Drawings tend to be slightly blurry and it is not always clear how the parts of a costume relate to each other. Cross-check the commentary as well: Cassin-Scott has unique interpretations of terms such as “goffered fillet”.
[SURVEYS]

Clarke, Helen. See Batey, Colleen. Cultural Atlas of the Viking World.




38 Contini, Mila. Fashion: From Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. London: Paul Hamlyn, 1965. 321 pages. Index: 318-321. ISBN: none.
Illustrated with photographs of artworks and some artifacts. Some illustrations colour.
A survey work with chapters on the Middle Ages, Fifteenth Century and Sixteenth Century (p. 59-142). Good pictures, but forgettable text loaded with unsupported assertions, factual inaccuracies (calling Henry II the grandson of William the Conqueror, p. 72, or deriving the name poulaine for long-toed shoes from a person named Poulain, p. 84) and statements about the place of women that now seem somewhat bizarre.
[SURVEYS; ILLUSTRATIONS]

Cottrell, Joyce. See da Monticello, Catarina [Joyce Cottrell] “Since You Ask.”

Coulston, J.C.N. See Bishop, M. C. Roman Military Equipment.

Covey, Liz. See Ingham, Rosemary. The Costumer’s Handbook.




39 Crowfoot, Elisabeth, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland. Textiles and Clothing, c.1150-c.1450. Volume 4 of Medieval Finds from Excavations in London. London: HMSO, c1992. x, 223 pages. Glossary: 212-213. Bibliography: 215-223. ISBN: 0112904459.
183 B&W figures and 16 colour plates, showing photographs and careful drawings of surviving textiles and some artworks.
An essential resource for medieval recreators; it is a pity so few copies are available in this country. Here are details from surviving fragments of cloth and garment pieces, with discussion of fibre composition, thread counts, seams, edging techniques, buttonholes and eyelets. Includes scale photographs of the textile pieces. Line drawings show textile structures, reconstructions of patterns from small snippets of cloth, the shape and use of the various looms from the time, techniques for making narrow wares for bands and belts, ways of making cloth buttons, and the cut of the typical garments (cote and hood) from the later part of the period covered. Penelope Walton has provided an appendix on the dyes used. A wonderful book which shows how textile effects were produced at the time using techniques which are no longer part of the common sets of clothmaking and sewing skills.
[ARCHAEOLOGY; CONSTRUCTION; SURVIVING GARMENTS; HEADGEAR TECHNIQUES; PATTERNS – FROM SURVIVING GARMENTS; ENGLAND; 12th CENTURY; 13th CENTURY; 14th CENTURY; 15th CENTURY]

Crowfoot, Elisabeth. See also Bruce-Mitford, Rupert. The Sutton Hoo Ship-Burial.




40 Cumming, Valerie. Exploring Costume History 1500-1900. London: Batsford Academic and Educational, 1981. 96 pages. Glossary: 92. Bibliography: 93-94. Index: 95-96. ISBN: 071341829X.
50 B&W illustrations and 5 colour plates of artworks.
Aimed at the school market, with suggestions for presenting a project, this includes a worthwhile section on “Finding information”. Only the earliest portions of the book are relevant to our time period, but they are a reasonable introduction for beginners.
[ENGLAND; 16th CENTURY; 17th CENTURY; ELIZABETHAN; STUART; COSTUME STUDY – THEORY]


41 Cumming, Valerie. A Visual History of Costume: The Seventeenth Century. London: Batsford; New York: Drama Book, 1984. 144 pages. "Select Bibliography": 141-142. "Glossary and Select Index": 143-144. ISBN: 0713440937 (Batsford); 0896760782 (Drama Book).
15 B&W and 8 colour illustrations of artworks from the period.
A brief introduction explains the available sources of visual information about 17th century clothing, and the problems of dating and accuracy which accompany them. Good pictures, each with commentary noting and explaining points of interest.
[ENGLAND; 17th CENTURY; STUART]

Cumming, Valerie. See also Ribeiro, Aileen. The Visual History of Costume.




42 Cunnington, C. Willett. The Art of English Costume. London: Collins, 1948. xii, 243 pages. Index: 237-243. ISBN: none.
48 B&W illustrations of illuminations, sculptures, and fashion etchings and photographs. 8 colour plates.
C. Willett Cunnington’s first costume work is a thematic view of English costume from the Middle Ages to the 1940s. The illustrations are fine, but the text, which is most of the work, is discursive and mostly concerned with theories of artistic balance and the social and sexual signals sent by clothing. Although interesting in its own post-war psychosocial way, the focus on costume oddities and big questions makes this not entirely useful for the recreator.
[ENGLAND – SURVEYS]


43 Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. Handbook of English Costume in the Seventeenth Century. 3rd ed. London: Faber and Faber, 1972. (First edition published 1955.) 229 pages. Glossary: 200-206. Bibliography: 207-212. “Sources of Illustrations”: 213-220. Index: 221-229. ISBN: 0571047734.
93 B&W figures, many with more than one line drawing, carefully redrawn from garments and artworks.
Divides the century into halves, looking at the clothing of men and women separately, with a final chapter on the clothing of children. Classification of styles and variants, with first and final dates for fashions where they are known. An excellent source.
[ACCESSORIES; CHILDREN; ENGLAND; 17th CENTURY; STUART; FOOTWEAR; HEADGEAR]


44 Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth Century. Rev. ed. London: Faber, 1970. (First published 1954.) Illustrations by Barbara Phillipson with additions by Catherine Lucas and Phillis Cunnington. 244 pages. “Glossary of materials”: 212-227. “List of sources (primary and secondary, in lieu of bibliography)”: 228-234. Index: 239-244. SBN: 571046924.
76 pages of B&W line drawings from original identified sources (detailed list of sources given in p. 235-238). Discussion of decoration. Appendices on the clothes of working people and children.
Another treasure. Divides the century into the periods 1500-1545 and 1545-1600, offering a detailed and classified analysis of the garments worn by men and women in each period. Gives descriptions of each garment, dates for the beginning and end of fashions for garments, and lists variations in length and cut (neckline, sleeves). Particularly useful for explanation of where and when garments might be worn: such as for mourning, outdoors only, or by old people. The system of organising information in ordered lists means that a costume can almost be selected from a menu and described by a combination of numbers and letters. Use this as a guide to make sense of what you see in picture books. Invaluable when devising an outfit or a wardrobe.
[ENGLAND; TUDOR; ELIZABETHAN; 16th CENTURY; ACCESSORIES; FOOTWEAR; HEADGEAR]

1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   ...   13


Verilənlər bazası müəlliflik hüququ ilə müdafiə olunur ©atelim.com 2016
rəhbərliyinə müraciət