Here the items annotated in the bibliography are listed in order of first publication. Note that many of the items have been reprinted or re-edited, and that the annotations apply to the latest edition mentioned. A number of the most influential items, such as A Handbook of English Medieval Costume by the Cunningtons, reached their final and quotable form in a second revision edition. The influence the item has had on costume theory and popular thinking about costume, however, usually dates from its first publication, and that date is also likely to inform the reader of the context in which the work was written.
The earliest two books listed here, both from the end of the 16
th century, represent two quite different traditions. Cesare Vecellio’s costume book was a work of popular history, with woodcuts of costumes from ancient times through to contemporary costumes from foreign parts. It is a book to satisfy people’s curiosity about outlandish garb and give them ideas about how to dress up for masques. Although it is not particularly accurate as a record of the clothing worn by ancient Romans or Normans, it tells us quite a bit about how the past looked to people of the late 1500s.
The other book is Juan de Alcega’s tailors’ pattern book, which gives real patterns for real clothes worn at the time. It is a how-to guide, with very little fantasy in it and no concern at all to show us how the garments look on the outside when they’re made up. This is about the process and structure of clothing, rather than about the appearance and romance of it.
There is then a hiatus of two centuries. This is a result of both production and selection. Little appears to have been written about the theory of historical costume, beyond the sort of costume survey represented by Vecellio and a few tracts praising classical draperies and the Empire line at the expense of unstylish medieval clobber. Note also that the contemporary sources for pattern-making fall outside the main timespan
allocated to this bibliography, although Norah Waugh’s works are recommended to those interested in these centuries.
When writing on costume recommences it is—not by chance—at the beginning of the Gothic revival. The works of Joseph Strutt and Walter Scott were both part of a multi-disciplinary stirring of interest in the medieval past. The novels of Scott, the architecture of Viollet-le-Duc and Pugin, the artistic and social concerns of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and the Arts and Crafts Movement, and the interest in medieval liturgy which was a characteristic of the Oxford Movement were all aspects of a revival of interest in the Gothic which seems to have started in the late 18
th century and flourished in the 19
th century.
The 20
th century has seen a diversification of types of writing on costume history, as discussed in Appendix B. Although this has included a proliferation of tertiary works and dubious claims, it has also featured much serious publication, including systematic study of archaeological evidence for clothing and textiles. This analysis of surviving artifacts is the most significant recent advance in the study of medieval and Renaissance clothing, and it is to be hoped that the steady trickle of publications in this vein continues.
Index references are to item numbers, not page numbers.
1598 Alcega, Juan de. Libro de Geometra Pratica y Traca. A facsimile reprint has been published as Tailor’s Pattern Book 1598; Facsimile. 1979. 1
------ Vecellio, Cesare. Habiti Antichi et Moderni de Tutto il Mondo. A reprint containing the woodcuts from this work has been published as Vecellio's Renaissance Costume Book: All 500 Woodcut Illustrations from the Famous Sixteenth-Century Compendium of World Costume, 1977. 159
1796 Strutt, Joseph. A Complete View of the Dress and Habits of the People of England, from the Establishment of the Saxons in Britain to the Present Time: Illustrated by Engravings Taken from the Most Authentic Remains of Antiquity. To Which is Prefaced an Introduction, Containing a General Description of the Ancient Habits in Use Among Mankind from the Earliest Period of Time to the Conclusion of the Seventh Century. Rev.ed. James Robinson Planché, 1842. 151
1834 Planché, James Robinson. History of British Costume. 125
1843 Shaw, Henry. Dresses and Decorations of the Middle Ages from the Seventh to the Seventeenth Centuries. 136
1846 Pugin, A. Welby. Glossary of Ecclesiastical Ornament and Costume, Compiled from Ancient Authorities and Examples. 2nd ed. (enlarged and rev. by Bernard Smith). 126
1871-1875. Viollet-le-Duc, E. (Eugène-Emmanuel). Dictionnaire Raisonné du Mobilier Français de l'Époque Carlovingienne a la Renaissance. 161
1876 Planché, James Robinson. A Cyclopaedia of Costume, or, Dictionary of Dress: Including Notices of Contemporaneous Fashions on the Continent; and A General Chronological History of the Costumes of the Principle Countries of Europe, from the Commencement of the Christian Era to the Accession of the George the Third. 124
1888 Racinet, A. Costume Historique. First published in serial form, then gathered together and published in 1888. Translated and republished as The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes, 1988. 127
1907 Calthrop, Dion Clayton. English Costume 1066-1820. First published in four volumes 1906. 35
1909 Ashdown, Charles Henry. British and Foreign Arms & Armour. Republished as British & Continental Arms and Armour, 1970. 6
1913 Victoria and Albert Museum: Department of Textiles. Guide to the Collection of Costumes. Rev. ed., 1924. 160
1918 Payne, Blanche, Geitel Winakor and Jane Farrell-Beck. The History of Costume: From Ancient Mesopotamia Through the Twentieth Century. Rev. ed., 1992. 119
1924 Norlund, Pöul. “Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes.” In Meddelelser om Grønland. 115
------ Norris, Herbert Costume and Fashion. Vol. 1. The Evolution of European Dress Through the Earlier Ages. Reprinted with slight revision, 1931. 116.1
1925 Kelly, Francis M. and Randolph Schwabe. Historic Costume: A Chronicle of Fashion in Western Europe 1490-1790. 2nd ed., 1929. 94
1927 Goddard, Eunice Rathbone. Women’s Costume in French Texts of the Eleventh and Twelfth Centuries. 71
------ Norris, Herbert Costume and Fashion. Vol. 2. Senlac to Bosworth: 1066-1485. 116.2
1928 Köhler, Carl [Karl Köhler]. Praktische Kostümkunde. Edited and augmented by Emma von Sichart; translated by Alexander K. Dallas, and published in English as A History of Costume. 1928. 96
1929 Ashdown, Mrs Charles H. [Emily Jessie Ashdown]. British Costume During XIX Centuries (Civil and Ecclesiastical). 7
1931 Hartley, Dorothy. Mediaeval Costume and Life: A Review of their Social Aspects Arranged Under Various Classes and Workers with Instructions for Making Numerous Types of Dress. 83
------ Houston, Mary G. Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume & Decoration. 2nd ed. 1959. 87
------ Kelly, Francis M. and Randolph Schwabe. A Short History of Costume & Armour: Chiefly in England: Vol. I. 1066-1485. 95
1932 Ffoulkes, C.J. (Charles John). European Arms and Armour. 69.1
------ Truman, Nevil. Historic Costuming. 157
1934 Brooke, Iris. English Costume of the Seventeenth Century. 24.4
------ Morse, Harriet Klamroth. Elizabethan Pageantry: A Pictorial Survey of Costume and its Commentators from c.1560-1620. 108
------ Stone, George Cameron. A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration and Use of Arms and Armour: In All Countries and In All Times; Together with Some Closely Related Subjects. 147
1936 Linthicum, M. Channing. Costume in the Drama of Shakespeare and his Contemporaries. 103
1937 Barton Lucy. Historic Costume for the Stage. 13
------ Brooke, Iris. A History of English Costume. 2nd ed., 1946. 26
------ Fernald, Mary, and Eileen Shenton. Costume Design & Making: A Practical Handbook. 68
1938 Bradfield, Nancy. Historical Costumes of England: From the Eleventh Century to the Twentieth Century. New ed., 1958. 22
------ Brooke, Iris. English Costume of the Age of Elizabeth. 24.3
------ Norris, Herbert Costume and Fashion. Vol. 3. The Tudors. Book I: 1485 -1547. 116.3
------ Norris, Herbert Costume and Fashion. Vol. 3. The Tudors. Book II: 1547 - 1603. 116.4
------ Wilson, Lilian M. The Clothing of the Ancient Romans. 167
1939 Houston, Mary G. Medieval Costume in England and France: The 13th, 14th and 15th Centuries. Mineola, N.Y.: Dover Publications, 1996. Reprint of original published in 1939 by Adam & Charles Black, London. 88
1942 Wilcox, Ruth Turner. The Mode in Costume. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1948. First published 1942. 166
1948 Brooke, Iris. English Costume of the Early Middle Ages: The Tenth to the Thirteenth Centuries. 24.1
------ Brooke, Iris. English Costume of the Later Middle Ages: The Fourteenth & Fifteenth Centuries. 24.2
------ Cunnington, C. Willett. The Art of English Costume. 42
------ Davenport, Millia. The Book of Costume. 55
1950 Hald, Margrethe. Olddanske Tekstiler. Translated, revised and expanded, and republished as Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials: A Comparative Study of Costume and Iron Age Textiles, 1980. 77
------ Pereira, Harold B. The Colour of Chivalry. 122
1951 Blum, André. Early Bourbon, 1590-1643. Vol. 3, no. 6 of Costume of the Western World. 18
------ Blum, André. The Last Valois, 1515-90. Vol. 3, no. 2 of Costume of the Western World. 19
------ Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. The History of Underclothes. 46
------ Laver, James. Early Tudor, 1485-1558. Vol. 3, no. 1 of Costume of the Western World. 101
------ Reade, Brian. The Dominance of Spain, 1550-1660. Vol. 3, no. 4 of Costume of the Western World. 128
------ Reynolds, Graham. Elizabethan and Jacobean, 1558-1625. Vol. 3, no. 3 of Costume of the Western World. 129
------ Thienen, Frithjof van. The Great Age of Holland, 1600-60. Vol. 3, no. 5 of Costume of the Western World. Translation of Het Noord-Nederland costuum vande gouden eeuw by Fernand G. Renier and Anne Cliff. 153
1952 Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. Handbook of English Mediaeval Costume. Rev. ed., 1969. 45
1952 Evans, Joan. Dress in Mediaeval France. 66
------ Gorsline, Douglas. What People Wore: A Visual History of Dress from Ancient Times to Twentieth-Century America. 72
------ Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth Century. Rev. ed., 1970. 44
1954 Hansen, Henny Harald. Costume Cavalcade: 685 examples of Historic Costume in Colour. 78
------ Nicolle, Patrick. A Book of Armour. 113
------ Sronkova, Olga. Gothic Woman's Fashion. 144
------ Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines. 163
1955 Bruhn, Wolfgang and Max Tilke. A Pictorial History of Costume: A Survey of Costume of All Periods and Peoples from Antiquity to Modern Times Including National Costume in Europe and Non-European Countries. 30
------ Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. Handbook of English Costume in the Seventeenth Century. 3rd ed., 1972. 43
1958 Maxwell, Stuart. and Robin Hutchison. Scottish Costume: 1500-1850. 106
1959 Sronkova, Olga. Fashions Through the Centuries: Renaissance Baroque and Rococco. 143
1960 Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington . A Picture History of English Costume. 47
------ Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington, and Charles Beard. A Dictionary of English Costume. 48
------ Ffoulkes, C.J. “European Arms and Armour” in Social Life in Early England. Ed. Geoffrey Barraclough. 69.2
------ Harrison, Michael. The History of the Hat. 81
------ Mann, James. An Outline of Arms and Armour in England: From the Early Middle Ages to the Civil War. 105
1962 Dunbar, John Telfer. History of Highland Dress: A Definitive Study of the History of Scottish Costume and Tartan, both Civil and Military, including Weapons: With an Appendix on Early Scottish Dyes by Annette Kok. 61
1963 Hargreaves-Mawdsley, W. N. A History of Academical Dress in Europe until the End of the Eighteenth Century. 79
------ Hargreaves-Mawdsley, W.N. A History of Legal Dress in Europe until the End of Eighteenth Century. 80
------ Laver, James. Costume through the Ages. Plates drawn and arranged by Erhard Klepper. First published in German, 1961. 100
1964 Laver, James. Costume in the Theatre. 99
------ Thomas, Bruno, Ortwin Gamber and Hans Schedelmann. Arms and Armour: Masterpieces by European Craftsmen from the Thirteenth to the Nineteenth Century. 154
------ Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes, 1600-1900. 164
1965 Contini, Mila. Fashion: From Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. 38
------ Cunnington, Phillis, and Anne Buck. Children's Costume in England: From the Fourteenth to the end of the Nineteenth Century. 50
1966 Brooke-Little, John. Knights of the Middle Ages: Their Armour and Coats of Arms. London: Hugh Evelyn, 1966. 28
------ Grange, R.M.D. A Short History of the Scottish Dress. 73
------ Green, Ruth M. The Wearing of Costume: The Changing Techniques of Wearing Clothes and How to Move in Them: From Roman Britain to the Second World War. 74
1967 Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. 21
------ Brooke, Iris. Medieval Theatre Costume: A Practical Guide to the Construction of Garments. 27
------ Hill, Margot Hamilton and Peter A. Bucknell. The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and Cut from 1066 to 1930. 85
------ Rubens, Alfred. A History of Jewish Costume. Revised and enlarged edition 1973. 131
1968 Kybalova, Ludmilla, Olga Herbenova, and Milena Lamarova. The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion. Translated by Claudia Rosoux. 97.1
------ Stavridi, Margaret. The Hugh Evelyn History of Costume: 1500-1660. Vol. 3 of The Hugh Evelyn History of Costume. Illustrated by Faith Jacques. 146
------ Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Women’s Clothes, 1600-1930. 165
1969 Cunnington, Phillis, and Alan Mansfield. English Costume for Sports and Outdoor Recreation from the Sixteenth to the Nineteenth Centuries. 53
------ Strong, Roy. The English Icon: Elizabethan & Jacobean Portraiture. 149
------ Tompkins, Julia. Stage Costumes and How to Make Them. 155
------ Laver, James, and Amy de la Haye. A Concise History of Costume. Rev. exp. and updated ed. concluding chapter by Amy de la Haye published as Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, 1995. 102
1970 Kybalova, Ludmilla, Olga Herbenova, and Milena Lamarova. Encyclopedie Illustrée du Costume et de la Mode. 97.2
------ Stavridi, Margaret. The Hugh Evelyn History of Costume: BC - AD 1500. Vol. 4 of The Hugh Evelyn History of Costume. 145
1971 Cassin-Scott, Jack. The Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Costume and Fashion: From 1066 to the Present. 37
1972 Brooke, Iris. Footwear: a Short History of European and American Shoes. 25
------ Cunnington, Phillis, and Catherine Lucas. Costume for Births, Marriages & Deaths. 52
------ Lister, Margot. Costumes of Everyday Life: An Illustrated History of Working Clothes from 900 to 1910. 104
1973 Arnold, Janet. A Handbook of Costume. 3
------ Barsis, Max. The Common Man Through the Centuries: A Book of Costume Drawings. 12
------ Beedell, Suzanne. Brasses and Brass Rubbing. 15
------ Burnham, Dorothy K. Cut My Cote. 33
1974 Anthony, Pegaret and Janet Arnold. Costume: A General Bibliography. 2nd ed. 2
------ Cunnington, Phillis. Costume of Household Servants: From the Middle Ages to 1900. 49
------ Hunt, John, with contributions from Peter Harbison. Irish Medieval Figure Sculpture, 1200-1600: A Study of Irish Tombs With Notes on Costume and Armour. 91
------ Squire, Geoffrey. Dress Art and Society, 1560-1970. 142
1975 Birbari, Elizabeth. Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500. 16
------ Bonfante, Larissa. Etruscan Dress. 20
------ Braun and Schneider (original publishers: no other author information is offered). Historic Costume in Pictures. Dover reprint. 23
1975-1983 Bruce-Mitford, Rupert, et al. The Sutton Hoo Ship-Burial. 3 vols. 29
1977 Sichel, Marion. Jacobean, Stuart and Restoration. Vol. 3 of Costume Reference. 138
------ Sichel, Marion. Roman Britain and the Middle Ages. Vol. 1 of Costume Reference. 139
------ Sichel, Marion. Tudors and Elizabethans. Vol. 2 of Costume Reference. 140
1978 Cunnington, Phillis, and Catherine Lucas. Charity Costumes of Children, Scholars, Almsfolk, Pensioners. 51
------ Ewing, Elizabeth. Dress and Undress: A History of Women's Underwear. 67
------ Jackson, Sheila. Costumes for the Stage: A Complete Handbook for Every Kind of Play. 93
------ Strong, Roy. And When Did You Last See Your Father?: The Victorian Painter and British History. 148
1979 Byrde, Penelope. The Male Image: Men's Fashion in Britain 1300-1970. 34
------ Cassin-Scott, Jack. Costumes and Settings for Historical Plays. Volume 2: The Medieval Period. 36
1980 Ingham, Rosemary, and Liz Covey. The Costumer’s Handbook: How to Make All Kinds of Costumes. 92
------ Newton, Stella Mary. Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince: A Study of the Years 1340-1365. 111
------ Scott, Margaret. Late Gothic Europe, 1400-1500. 134
------ Yarwood, Doreen. Costume of the Western World: A Pictorial Guide and Glossary. 168
1981 Baines, Barbara Burman. Fashion Revivals: From the Elizabethan Age to the Present Day. 11
------ Cumming, Valerie. Exploring Costume History 1500-1900. 40
------ Dreher, Denise. From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking. 60
------ Emery, Joy Spanabel. Stage Costume Techniques. 65
------ Herald, Jacqueline. Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500. 84
1982 de Marly, Diana. Costume on the Stage, 1600-1940. 56
1983 Geijer, Agnes. “The Textile Finds from Birka.” In Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson. 70
------ Hägg, Inga. “Viking Women’s Dress at Birka: A Reconstruction by Archaeological Methods.” In Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson. 76
------ Harte, N.B. and K.G. Ponting, eds. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson. 82
------ Munro, John H. “The Medieval Scarlet and the Economics of Sartorial Splendour.” In Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson. Edited by N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting. 109
------ Sichel, Marion. History of Children’s Costume. 137
------ Strong, Roy, and V.J. Murrell. Artists of the Tudor Court: The Portrait Miniature Rediscovered, 1520-1620. 150
------ Turnau, Irena. “The Diffusion of Knitting in Medieval Europe.” In Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson. 158
1984 Cumming, Valerie. A Visual History of Costume: The Seventeenth Century. 41
------ Holkeboer, Katherine Strand. Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915. 86
------ Mayo, Janet. A History of Ecclesiastical Dress. 107
------ Nunn, Joan. Fashion in Costume: 1200-1980. 117
1985 Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women c.1560-1620. 4
------ de Marly, Diana. Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History. 57
------ Nockert, Margareta. Bockstensmannen och hans Dräkt. 2nd ed. 1997. 114
1986 de Marly, Diana. Working Dress: A History of Occupational Clothing. 58
------ Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800. 89
------ Owen-Crocker, Gale R. Dress in Anglo-Saxon England. 118
------ Peacock, John. Costume 1066-1966. 120.1
1987 Buchanan, Rita. A Weaver’s Garden. 31
------ Ruby, Jennifer. Costume in Context: The Tudors. 133
------ Warren, Geoffrey. Fashion Accessories Since 1500. 162
1988 Ruby, Jennifer. Costume in Context: The Stuarts. 132
------ Arnold, Janet. Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d: The Inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes prepared in July 1600 edited from Stowe MS 557 in the British library, MS LR 2/121 in the Public Records Office, London, and MS V.b.72 in the Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington DC. 5
------ Ashelford, Jane. Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I. 9
------ da Monticello, Catarina [Joyce Cottrell] “Since You Ask.” Complete Anachronist. 38-40. 54
------ de Rheims, Audelindis [Linda Rheims Fox] and Catarina da Monticello [Joyce Cottrell]. “General Bibliography of Costume.” Complete Anachronist. 39. 59
------ Edge, David, and John Miles Paddock. Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight. 62
------ Grew, Francis, and Margrethe de Neergaard. Shoes and Pattens. Vol. 2 of Medieval Finds from Excavations in London. 75
------ Newton, Stella Mary. The Dress of the Venetians, 1495-1525. 100
------ Nicolle, David. Arms and Armour of the Crusading Era, 1050-1350. 112
------ Zijlstra-Zweens, H.M. Of His Array Telle I No Lenger Tale: Aspects of Costume, Arms, and Armour in Western Europe, 1200-1400. 170
1989 Pekridou-Gorecki, Anastasia. Mode im antiken Griechenland: Textile Fertigung und Kleidung. 121
------ Ribeiro, Aileen, and Valerie Cumming. The Visual History of Costume. 130
------ Tortora, Phyllis, and Keith Eubank. A Survey of Historic Costume. 156
1991 Bull, Stephen. An Historical Guide to Arms & Armour. 32
------ Egan, Geoff and Frances Pritchard. Dress Accessories, c. 1150-c. 1450. Vol 3 of Medieval Finds from Excavations in London. 63
------ Peacock, John. The Chronicle of Western Costume: From the Ancient World to the late Twentieth Century. 120.3
1992 Crowfoot, Elisabeth, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland. Textiles and Clothing, c.1150-c.1450. Volume 4 of Medieval Finds from Excavations in London. 39
------ Yarwood, Doreen. Fashion in the Western World: 1500-1990. 169
1993 Bishop, M. C. and J.C.N. Coulston. Roman Military Equipment: From the Punic Wars to the Fall of Rome. 17
------ Lacy, Michael S. “The Development of the Coat of Plates: The Evolution of Cloth-Covered Armour, 1250-1500.” Compleat Anachronist. 69. 98
1994 Batey, Colleen, Helen Clarke, R.I. Page, and Neil S. Price. Cultural Atlas of the Viking World. 14
------ Embleton, Gerry, and John Howe. The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs. 64
------ Peacock, John. Costume 1066-1990s. 120.2
------ Sebesta, Judith Lynn, and Larissa Bonfante. Eds. The World of Roman Costume. 135
1995 Baclawski, Karen. The Guide to Historic Costume. 10
------ Singman, Jeffrey L., and Will McLean. Daily Life in Chaucer’s England. 141
1996 Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society 1500-1914. 8
------ Hunnisett, Jean and Kathryn Turner (Ill.) Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500. 90
1997 Norris, Herbert. Tudor Costume and Fashion. Dover reprint of volume three of Costume and Fashion, with a new introduction by Richard Martin. 116.5
------ Piponnier, Françoise, and Perrine Mane. Dress in the Middle Ages. [Se vêtir au Moyen Age. English] Trans. Caroline Beamish. 123
1998 Sutton, Anne. “Dress and Fashions c. 1470.” Chapter 1 of Daily Life in the Late Middle Ages. 152
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