Colenso’s collections
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6 23 21
58 16 12 12α 42 18
24 th. – Leaving Anaura and striking inland (in order to visit some natives residing on the banks of the River Uawa), we ascended some steep hills, on the summits of which I noticed several fine plants of Trophis, (T. opaca? Sol. ?) none, however, possessing either flowers or fruit. In a swamp near by I obtained an Epilobium (21), which was new to me; and in a wood a little further on I gathered specimens of several shrubs, or young trees (35), but unfortunately could not obtain any either in flower or fruit. Here a very graceful species of Metrosideros, with ovate-acuminate leaves (22), hung pendent from the trees; and another species in flower (13), perhaps one of those described by Cunningham. In the shady recesses of this wood I discovered a handsome species of Polypodium [P. sylvaticum, n. sp., W.C.] (55), together with an elegant Davallia [D. Novæ Zelandiæ, n. sp., W.C.] (56), the only Davallia hitherto found in these islands. Polypodium tenellum (57), here adhering to the trees, apparently varied, in the shortness of its pinnæ, &c., from the specimens I had noticed in the north parts of the island. An Epilobium (23), with very pubescent leaves and peduncles, which grew hereabouts in grassy places, I also secured. This plant as well as the former (No. 21) grew high from 12-30 inches. Arriving at the banks of the Uawa, at present a muddy rapid stream, swollen greatly through the late rains, I noticed a Lobelia (58) growing plentifully, probably L. angulata, Forst. After some little time spent in fording the stream (on the opposite bank of which Erpetion spathulatum, Don, was plentiful, but not in flower), we continued our journey until we arrived at Mangatuna, a small village, where, at the very pressing invitation of the chief we consented to remain for the night. In a wood close by I found an Orchis (16), the leaf of which I had often seen at the northward; but though I had frequently sought its flower, I had never been fortunate enough to obtain it. The flowering season of this, too, unfortunately was long past; I brought away, however, the capsule for examination. The next morning we left this little village and, recrossing the Uawa, proceeded over the alluvial plains which form its banks towards the sea. In this morning journey I obtained two species of Epilobium; one (12) with large ovate leaves, adpressed on the stalk; the other (12α) with long lanceolate leaves. I also got specimens of a pretty little decumbent plant (42) in flower and fruit. At 2 P.M., we reached Hinuroro, a large village on the seashore at the mouth of the Uawa River. This bay, or rather open roadstead, is the Tolaga Bay (in 38° S.) of our illustrious circumnavigator, Cook. Here his ships were at anchor in October, 1769; here, too, it was that “the first Knightia excelsa, Br., was seen, and the first Areca sapida, Sol., was cut down for the sake of its top.” And here, near the S.E. headland of the bay, Cook dug a well for the supplying of his ships with water; which well is shewn at this day by the natives to the curious “white man” travelling this way. 9th. – We recommenced our journey this morning, crossing the Uawa, at its mouth, in a canoe. Our route, at first, lay inland, thence we turned towards the sea. Descending a high hill near the coast, I was both gratified and rewarded in finding an elegant little Arthropodium in flower, quite a new species (18); I only observed the plant in this locality, although I sought it assiduously during the remainder of my journey as I wished more specimens. Close by it grew a very handsome shrubby Pimelea (24), which, to me, appeared to be a new species, and distinct from the one numbered 32. Proceeding on, over the long sandy beaches, we were soon overtaken with rain, from which we endeavoured to shelter ourselves under some fine trees of Corynocarpus lævigata, Forst., which often grow in clumps near the seashore; but the rain continuing, we were obliged to proceed. From some natives whom we met, I obtained a basket of Haliotis, the black fish of which my baggage-bearers ate raw, with great zest. On the shells I found a peculiar little Patella, identical with a species discovered by Dr. Jos. Hooker, at Auckland Island. At four P.M., we arrived at Parinuiotera, the high bluff promontory, commonly known from its appearance at sea, by the not inappropriate though quite unclassical appellation of “Gable-End F 59 11 39 25 46 44 38
oreland.” This remarkable headland, not less than 200 feet in perpendicular height, is entirely composed of white indurated clay, on whose face and sides grew not so much as a single moss or lichen, from the continual crumbling down of the clay of which it is composed. Here, in the pelting rain, beneath this towering crag where we could scarcely stand on our feet, owing to the extreme slipperiness of the clayey rocks, we found that the tide had not sufficiently receded to allow of our passing onwards without hazard. As, however, the evening was drawing on, and we had still some distance to travel ere we should meet with either food or shelter, we were necessitated to make the attempt. Scrambling, in some places, on all-fours, like a cat, and upborne by my faithful natives, I rounded this cape, through the breakers, passing under a natural archway in the rocky cliff, a thing of common occurrence, in similar situations, in New Zealand, and reached in safety, though wet, and cold, and hungry, the other side. Continuing my march, I picked up several specimens of Algæ which were new to me (59). At six P.M., we arrived at Pakaræ, a small village, containing about twelve persons, who, according to their custom, heartily welcomed us although they had not a scrap of food to give us. The old chief kindly pulled up three stakes from the fence of his little city as tent-poles for my tent, for trees there were none in this neighbourhood, and presented me with a dead craw-fish which I was happy enough to obtain, and divide among six of my party, including myself, as a substitute for supper. Next morning we started early, (having procured a basket of sweet potatoes for our breakfast, which were fetched during the night from some distance) travelling, as yesterday, by the sea-side. At two P.M., we halted to roast a few potatoes for our dinner which afforded me an opportunity of straying about a little, after specimens. In doing so I was fortunate enough to obtain Euphrasia cuneata in flower, which was abundant here on the clayey cliffs, and three species of Compositæ, two of them quite new to me. I had previously noticed the leaves of one, a curious little plant, in the slatey defile, near Waiapu, where I obtained the small Plantago (11), and other plants; the leaves and stalk of this plant (39) were covered with a viscid substance which exuded from its glandular pores. Another (25) grew commonly about the bases and faces of the low clayey and sandy cliffs, and often attained the height of 4 or 5 feet. The third (46), a Composita, was found in similar situations and of the same height as the preceding. The peculiar glaucous leaves of this last, so much resembling those found on the flowering stems of many varieties of Brassica oleracea greatly attracted my notice. Here, also, procumbent upon the sand, grew a small plant (44), somewhat resembling in habit and general appearance Tetragonia ex- pansa, but differing in the fruit, the berries being large, succulent, pimpled, and dewy, and filled with a carmine-coloured juice; this juice is used by the natives in writing as a substitute for ink; but like most other simple vegetable dyes is very evanescent; the natives call it Kokihi. Here, too, I noticed a Chenopodium (38), which, I think, I must have sent you before. A Linum (17) which appeared to differ somewhat from L. monogynum, at least in size, I also discovered in this locality; with a small, straggling, procumbent plant (48), which at first I supposed to be Anchusa spathulata, Rœm; but Cunningham, I find, describes that species as possessing “folia ovata obtusa,” which this one has not; to that family, however, it belongs in common with its ally the plant numbered 6, already mentioned. Having hastily gleaned this neighbourhood, we once more struck inland. The little decumbent plant (2), first seen at Warekahika was common here on the sand-hills near the shore. Leaving the sand-hills and proceeding on through a long swamp of Phormium, about five P.M., we reached the river at Turanganui in the inner N.W. angle of Poverty Bay, and crossing the river in a canoe made the best of our way for Kaupapa, a mission station, where the Rev. W. Williams resides; this place we reached by seven P.M., quite tired. The hospitable reception, however, which we received from Mr. Williams went far towards causing us to forget the toils of the journey. As the vessel in which I came to Warekahika had been to this place, one of my first inquiries was after my package of paper, and I was happy to find it safe in Mr. W’s keeping. A 48 6 2 47 33 49 26
60 45 43
51 t Mr. W’s I remained for several days, occasionally, when weather and duty permitted itinerating in the neighbourhood in quest of specimens. In the alluvial plains on the banks of the river, grew a plant of the Order Compositæ (47), possessing a very elegant coloured imbricated involucre. In the swamps, among Typha, I detected a curious little floating plant (33),132 which covered the whole surface of the standing water. Here, also, on the banks I procured fine specimens of a spiny shrub, of the order Rhameæ (49). I had noticed it when here in 1838, and got living plants, which unfortunately died in my garden at Paihia. Until this time, however, I had neither seen its fruit nor flower; it appears to possess characters indicative of its belonging to the genus Colletia, Brongn.; perhaps a new species of Discaria?133 It forms strong dense bushes, 2 to 4 feet in height, and would, doubtless, make an excellent fence; for which purpose I gathered a quantity of its seed, now nearly ripe. The natives give this plant the expressive name of Tumatakuru, i.e. literally, Standingface-beater. I also noticed a small linear-leaved Senecio (26), common here among the grass which appeared to me to be distinct from any species yet observed. On a hill in the neighbourhood, I procured fine specimens of a species of Cheilanthes (60), perhaps C. tenuifolia, R. Br., and in a damp wood, at a little distance, a fine and lovely Moss (45), which was quite new to me. I felt gre atly disappointed, however, in not being so fortunate as to find a single specimen in fruit. In this locality, too, a small Galium (43) occurred, which may possibly prove different from the two species noticed by Cunningham. I again observed in this neighbourhood that elegant Rubus already mentioned (51), but much in the same state as those previously seen at Waiapu; and I was rather surprised to find the Ngaio (Myoporum lætum, Forst.) growing here very commonly as a forest-tree, with a straightness and height unknown in the north part of the island. In the Bay of Islands and adjacent districts, M. lætum is an irregular growing shrub, or small tree, only found in the immediate neighbourhood of the sea; there, its wood is so small as not to be of any use, and is not even collected for the purpose of firing; while here, the tree attains the height of 30-35 feet, and is very commonly used by the natives for posts, poles, rafters, &c. I quite satisfied myself, however, of its perfect identity with the northern one. D 89 93 103 104
106 107
109 105
110 88 90 267 97
100 264
162 84 82 265 266 99 86 81 91
85
94 96 ec. 20. – This morning I re-commenced my journey, directing my course for the first time directly into the interior. For some time we proceeded up the valley by the banks of the river over alluvial and grassy plains; and about two P.M., reached the forests at the base of the first high range of hills. Here, growing on the river’s bank, was a species of Compositæ (84) differing from any I had yet noticed. A species of Viola (82) occurred plentifully; but I could not obtain a specimen in flower. In a damp wood I discovered an elegant membranaceous-leaved Lomaria (265), [L. rotundifolia, n. sp., W.C.,] with fine specimens of another species of the same genus (266) which appeared a variety of the plant formerly sent by me to you, and figured in Icones Plantarum Tab. CDXXIX (L. lanceolata.) In pools in marshy ground, almost entirely submersed in water, I found a fine aquatic Ranunculus (99) with very long petioles. On the clayey hills and generally in dry elevated spots, I obtained specimens of what may probably be species of Celmisia (86). I think these will prove two distinct species, and different kinds of Anchusa, or Myosotis (81, 91) I also obtained in this locality. Ascending a hill I discovered a plant with copious verticillate inflorescence, and large subrotund leaves, with long succulent petioles (83). Most unfortunately I could not find a specimen possessing either seeds or flowers, although I sought most assiduously for such. It must have flowered very early in the season, as both carpels and peduncles in every specimen were quite withered; some flower-stalks were from 12-20 inches in height. 134 On a barren hill in this neighbourhood grew a Lycopodium (85) which I had not before noticed; together with a few mosses, (39, 94, 96). From these heights the prospect is most extensive. Beneath me lay Poverty Bay with its romantic headlands; while far away to the left, Hikurangi (the isolated mountain near Waiapu) hid his venerable head in clouds. The atmosphere, however, was so filled with smoke arising from the fern which was burning furiously to windward, that it was only with difficulty that I discovered a single distant object. We travelled until near sunset, halting for the night by the side of a small stream in a desolate wild, called by the natives, Tapatapauma. Here several species of the genus Epilobium flourished luxuriantly, of which I secured specimens, (vide Nos. 89, 93, 103, 104, 106, 107 and 109); Nos. 105 and 110 may, in all probability, be merely varieties of 103. This last, 103, grew most plentifully in tufts every where on these hills among the fern. The sides of the rivulet were ornamented with fine plants of a Fagus (88), which I think will prove distinct from the large-leaved species discovered by me in the more northern parts of the Island; the leaves of this species being rhomboid-ovate, upper half of the leaf serrate or sub-laciniate, much truncate, tridentate, and attenuated at the base, serratures, 11-13, acuminate or mucronate, petioles and whole upper surface of the leaf tomentose; while the leaves of that species, (discovered by me at Wangarei, and sent to you in July, 1841), are ovato cordate, serrate nearly to the base, truncate, subtridentate, serratures 15-21, and petioles slightly villous; leaves much larger and broader. 21st. Rising early this morning I resumed my journey – and gaining the summit of the hill before me, I had an extensive view of the interior. Hill rose on hill, – Pelion on Ossa, in continuous succession far as the eye could reach. To the left was Wakapunake, an immense table-topped hill, of rather mountain; while far away in the distance to the right, a peculiarly precipitous mountain cast its bold outline in fine relief into the sky: this, my native guide informed me, was Waikare, to which we were going. Time, however, would not permit a lengthened gaze; so, descending the hill, we proceeded onwards. Here, among the short grass, a pretty little Ophioglossum (90) grew, which to me seemed to differ from those already noticed by Cunningham, and I first gathered also that very graceful fern, Lomaria linearis, n. sp., W.C. (267), which grew rather abundantly in one spot in those grassy dells. On the dry and barren summit of a high hill, I procured a peculiar little Compositæ (97); and shortly after discovered a specimen of Leptospermum (95) for examination; which I believe, from its foliage and general appearance, to be a new species. It here grows as a stunted shrub; sometimes, however, reaching 7-10 feet in height. In this neighbourhood I noticed a new and very distinct species of Coriaria (100), an elegant procumbent plant with undulated ovate-acuminate leaves. It seldom rises above two feet in height and is mostly found quite prostrate, and very abundant; disputing the possession of the soil with those very common occupiers, Pteris esculenta and Leptospermum scoparium. Among the fern it has a very peculiar appearance; and, at first sight, might almost be taken for a gigantic foliaceous Lichen overspreading the surface of the ground. I have named this species C. Kingiana, (in honour of my much respected friend, Capt. P.P. King, R.N.), and was fortunate in procuring fine specimens in flower and fruit. At Hopekoko, a small stream (where we rested awhile to dine on roasted potatoes) the bed of which at the ford was one flat block of sandstone, I procured a specimen of a pretty little Restiaceous plant (264), and also of a Hydrocotyle (162). Having feasted with hearty zest on our roast, we proceeded on our journey. We soon arrived at a small cataract, down which the water fell perpendicularly about t 268 98
142 97
92 111
wenty feet into a deep and dark basin. The only ford at this place was on the very slippery edge of the fall, (composed of a single mass of rock), over which I was obliged to be carried, for I dared not trust my own footing on that perilous and uncertain path, which forcibly reminded me of the bridge to the Mahometan Elysium. As it was, I very nearly fell, through nervous excitement, into the gloomy depth below. At a short distance beyond this, stream, and on its banks, I found another small Lomaria (268) (L. deflexa, n. sp., W.C.], and, in the same locality, a graceful species of Composita (98), the leaves of which I had before observed. In a deep swamp through which we had to pass, I found a large-leaved Epilobium (102), and on a little hillock in the midst of the swamp, a small Composita (142), which may prove but a finer variety of 97 already noticed. Passing onwards I obtained a species of Galium (101) and a Hydrocotyle (92), which appeared to be new. I also noticed the leaf of an orchideous plant (111) differing from any I had hitherto seen; it was, however, past flowering, so I was obliged to be content with a leaf or two as a memento of such a plant. About six P.M., we arrived at the banks of the river Wangaroa, (one of the principal branches of the river Wairoa which disembogues into Hawke’s Bay). Here I obtained two canoes from the natives, and paddled down the river about two and a half miles to Te Reinga, the principal village of the district. This river winds round the enormous hills of Wakapunake at the base of which the village is situated. I had often heard from time to time about this place from the natives, and the abyss-like cataract in its immediate vicinity, and had long cherished a hope of one day visiting it. Tired as I now was, I wished for morning that I might realize my desire, and gain a few more additions to the New Zealand Flora. The roar of the waters during the stillness of the night had much that was soothing as well as solemn in the sound. Morning broke, and, prayers and breakfast over, I entered into a little canoe and paddled about 200 yards to the bed of rock, which, crossing the river, dams up the water and causes the fall. This cataract, from its situation, is exceedingly romantic; the most so, I think, of any I have yet seen in New Zealand. The bed of rock, or rather deposit of indurated clay, sand and mud, of a very white colour, which here obstructs the progress of the river, (and through a narrow hollow in which the water rushes with fearful velocity) is filled with marine shells in a fossil state, although at a considerable distance from the sea and at a very, great height above its level. This bed of white rock is large, being not less than 200 feet in width, and, when the river is swollen, by the winter’s rains, surrounded as it is by high and densely wooded hills, the fall must present a very imposing appearance. I gained several specimens of shells, Uni- Bi- and Multivalve by digging them out of the rock with my hatchet. Among them were specimens of the genera Terebratula (Terebratula Tayloriana, n. sp.), Valuta, Pecten, Lepas, and others, at present unknown to me. The waters fell from, rock to rock three several times, ere they were swallowed up in the dark eddying gulph below. The deep gloom of the river in the gorge beneath, the different hues of the dense masses of foliage on either side, the sunbeams peering downwards through the tops of the trees, the enormous bed of rock above, white as snow, with the natives who accompanied me perched here and there upon the same, and the little village in the back-ground, contributed to give the whole an enchanting effect. In the height only of the fall was I disappointed. I attempted a hurried sketch, but could not do the scene before me justice. In fact, I had too many things upon my hands at once, consequently I did nothing well. I wished, afterwards, when it was too late, that I had remained a day at this place, instead of pressing on, post-haste, in the manner I did. I just glanced at the vegetation here, and obtained two specimens of white-flowered Gnaphalium, (80, 130) which I had not before seen. Returning to the village, and obtaining, though with great difficulty, guides and baggage-bearers, we again commenced our journey. Paddling up another branch of the river, named Ruakituri, for nearly a mile, we landed on the left bank. The sun was intensely powerful, not a zephyr playing, nor a cloud in the air, nor a tree which could afford us a shade anywhere at hand. Through unfrequented paths, (if paths such could be termed) up and down steep hills overgrown with the young fern, (Pt. escul.) which at this season is peculiarly disagreeable from the clouds of fine yellow dust with which it is loaded, and which, inhaled at every breath causes you incessantly to sneeze, we travelled until three P.M. many times halting by the way. Having roasted a few potatoes, on which we dined, I endeavoured to cheer my companions in travel, but to little purpose. We however recommenced our journey, and continued our march, through want of water, until after sunset. Fortunately I succeeded in finding some, by the side of which, in the wilderness we encamped; all too fatigued to care much about anything save rest. O 80 130 127
“ All-conquering heat, oh intermit thy wrath! |