Parrot family birds
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| Copyright 1950
All-Pets Magazine Fond du Lac, Wisconsin First Edition June 1950 Revised Second Edition March 1951 Revised, Enlarged Third Edition March 1953 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 53-8119
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Chapters on Talking Birds: PARRAKEETS, COCKATOOS, MYNAHS, CROWS, MAGPIES, STARLINGS, LORIES AND MANY OTHERS. By Julien L. Bronson
Dedicated to the propagating and keeping of Talking and Parrot-like Birds in cages and aviaries, by the bird fancier. TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction 5 Taming 7 Teaching Birds to Talk 9 Breeding and Housing in Captivity ... - 11 Feeding of Parrots, Macaws and Cockatoos - - - 18 Parrots 21 Hill Mynahs 26 Lorikeets and Lories 34 Loriquets or Hanging Parrakeets 39 Lorilets or Fig Parrots 41 African Love Birds 42 Pigmy Parrot 51 Magpies 52 Cockatoos 55 Cockatiels 63 Macaws 65 Australian Shell Parrakeets 70 The Larger Parrakeets 79 Hawk-headed Caiques 86 Caiques 87 Cpnures 88 Parrotlets 91 Brotogerys Parrakeets 94 Dwarf Parrots 94 Eclectus Parrots 94 Crow Family 95 European Starling 99 Diseases and Health Problems 101 Regulations 110 All bird drawings, unless otherwise specified, were done by R. A. Vowles, well known English artist.
Parrots, and other Psittacine Birds, have been kept as pets for centuries; since the days of ancient Rome, Greece and other civilizations before them. The African Grey Parrot was the best known in Europe during those times, and was brought in by the merchant galleys. In India and China, which had older civilizations, the Alexandrine and other Asiatic Parrakeets were kept by the natives. Back in South America, the Incas and other Indian nations kept Macaws and the various species of Amazon Parrots. The most recent and most beautifully colored Psittacine Birds known to man are the Parrakeets and Cockatoos of the Australian Continent, of which 59 species are known to science. Australian Birds were introduced in Europe only about 200 years ago. Some of these Parrakeets are now rare and in danger of extinction due to the encroachment of civilization. During this time the Lories, Lorikeets, and new species of Cockatoos, Parrots, and Parrakeets were discovered in many South Pacific Islands. Many of these are extremely local species and deserve man's full protection. Some Psitta-cines are now extinct within the space of only a few hundred years. Some rare species are being bred in good numbers by English aviculturists who deserve much credit. The best method of preventing the extinction of birds would be to encourage aviculturists to breed and sell them. In their native habitat government protection should be given, with a specified number permitted to be trapped and sold to bird breeders and fanciers each year. Between this natural and artificial breeding, a species' continued existence would be assured. Another aid would be artificial insemination of birds, which has been practiced with success by scientists on small birds like the Canary and the Pigeon, as well as on Finches.* * References: The Artificial Insemination of Farm Animals — E. J. Perry, Rutgers Univ. Press. $3.50. A Method of Obtaining Spermatozoa from the Domestic Fowl. Poultry Science, Vol. XIV, No. 4, July, 1935. The Collection of Spermatozoa from the Domestic Fowl and Turkey. Poultry Science, Vol. XVI, No. 1, January, 1937. Artificial Insemination of Pigeons and Doves. Poultry Science, Vol. XX, No. 5, September, 1941. Poultry Science—450 Ahnaip St., Menasha, Wis., @ 50c ea.   
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can be applied to all birds except Oil usual specimens like ostriches, penguins, etc. TAMING 
Psittacine Birds are different from all other birds, in that they have strong hooked beaks, and all have two toes behind and two in front. During their evolution, these birds all preferred climbing to hopping from branch to branch. A species such as the Hanging Parro-quets, have a locking joint in their legs which enables them to hang from a branch and sleep upside down, their favorite position at night. Before training a bird to talk, it is first necessary to tame it by winning its confidence, and getting your presence and that of others acceptable to the bird. The larger Psittacine Birds, Hill Mynahs, and the Crow Family, become very tame and attached to their owners, especially when obtained at a young age, 2 to 6 months. When an older bird is purchased, more patience and understanding are required of the owner, particularly if the bird is very wild or has been mistreated or neglected. Full-grown Parrots, Macaws and Cockatoos can bite hard and should be approached slowly, and not making any quick, sudden motions or loud noises. Offering a tidbit from the hand (not candy or cake), or scratching their head for them gently, are winning suggestions. Various nuts, grated hard-boiled egg yolk, celery stalk, a small piece of fresh corn on cob, etc., make tempting offerings for the large Psittacines. Treats with very strong appeal to Hill Mynahs, Magpies, Crows and English Starlings, which they will take from your fingers, are red colored fruits such as cherries, a piece of tomato, various berries, and they love a drink of milk from the bottle cap. Grapes are irresistible and some go for mealworms. Fruit cake is the only kind that should be offered, dipped in milk for an occasional treat. 8 Parrot Family Birds H Another way of taming a wild bird, is to place the cage right beside you while reading, writing or sewing. A nervous bird will eventually take your presence for granted. Birds kept alone, tame more readily than when in company of other birds. Some of the larger birds enjoy a little roughing up from their owner as they like attention. This doesn't mean teasing, which would make a bird vicious. They do enjoy having their head scratched and back stroked. With the larger Psittacines, a towel or glove should be used at first in handling them till they get used to their master. They will eventually expect this attention from persons they know who are near them. EXAMINE YOUR BIRD I always believe in a thorough examination of all birds, going over them by hand once a month. Wings, tail and body should be looked over, as there is always the possibility of finding some minor or major condition in your pet which could be corrected. This may be an ingrown feather, toenails or beek needing trimming, a swollen or dark abdomen indicating egg-binding or liver trouble. The vent should also be examined. The legs, if rough and too scaly and encrusted with droppings, need washing in warm water, then anointing with either mineral oil, castor oil or vaseline, to soften the scales and kill any scale lice if they are present.
Y TEACHING BIRDS TO TALK 
Which ever species of bird is selected for training, it is preferable to buy young, and if possible hand-raised birds between 2 and 6 months old. A bird's learning ability is not as rapid, the older it becomes. It is much more difficult to teach a wild or untrained adult bird, as its own calls or whistles will have been firmly implanted in its memory. However, a grown bird still can learn, but the owner will have to use more patience in teaching words to it. There is much variation in their ability to imitate the human voice, whether hand-raised or wild, young or adult. This faculty depends on the species selected, the owner's teaching technique and patience, and most important, tame-ness of the bird itself. Half the success is assured with a bird which is calm and gives you a bold look when you approach 10 Parrot Family Birds i The different species of Amazon Parrots from the American Tropics are good talkers, some better than others. Cockatoos can also be taught to talk. Ravens, which are really big black Crows, will talk. Young ones are sold very reasonably. Less proficient talkers are: Macaws, Cockatiels, Conures, Magpies, the Lesser or Malabar Hill Mynah, Grass Parra-keets, English Starlings, Love Birds and the larger species of Parrakeets. To teach a bird to talk, constant repetition of a word or short phrase is necessary. This can be done at different times, such as before removing the cover from the cage in the morning. In the dark with no distractions, a bird will concentrate on listening and answering back. Repeating words at feeding time, or when giving it a preferred tidbit helps also. At times, when you may be out of sight, you may hear your bird trying to enunciate some word or phrase. This is a good opportunity to repeat what you want it to learn, or if the bird seems to be attempting a different expression from what you are teaching it, fit in words or a short phrase to go with the bird's vocal efforts and make them clear. Meanwhile keep out of sight and don't approach the cage. Still another excellent method of teaching your bird to talk, whistle or sing a tune, is by having a phonograph record made with a few words or short phrase on it. If your own voice isn't clear and distinct, some friend of yours could oblige by repeating in the recording machine for you. The Breeding and Housing in Captivity 11 c BREEDING AND HOUSING IN CAPTIVITY
An outdoor breeding cage for the larger Parrakeets would have to be about 20 ft. long x 6 ft. wide x 6 ft. high. For Parrots and Cockatoos the length should be from 25 to 30 feet, for Macaws a little longer. Six feet of the top and sides of these aviaries should be solid, to act as a shelter in wind and rain, and to keep their food dry. When constructing a breeding enclosure, length is the most important consideration. Plenty of wing exercise and the proper food are necessary to keep them in top breeding condition and in good health. Perches should be placed only at each end of the enclosure with clearance from the sides for the tail. To compel the lazy larger Psittacines to 12 Parrot Family Birds  use their wings more often, it is advisable also to build a solid 2 or 3 foot wall from the ground, all around the cage, instead of using netting in this part of the construction. Parrots, Cockatoos and Macaws use their wings as little as pos-
Layout of a row of breeding pens. sible in captivity, and this wall forces them to fly up or down to their food dish, rather than to crawl along the netting. By attaching 1 1/2 to 2 foot sheet metal sections to the sides of the pen thru the center of which you place your perch ends, Polly has to fly to get anywhere. The site for the enclosure should be considered before any construction is done, and this should be in a sheltered spot, out of strong winds, draughts or dampness. A south-east exposure is good, as birds like morning sun and bright quarters, especially in Winter. In Summer the aviary may be partly shielded from the sun's rays with vines. Some Psitta-
Breeding and Housing in Captivity 13 c A year-round outdoor aviary should consist of a closed dry shelter opening into a wire flight. The breeding enclosure with shelter previously described was a simple open type for use during mild weather or in the South. The dimensions for a year-round enclosure may be the same, with the closed shelter 6 feet square. This should be constructed with tongued and grooved boards, which will give a draught-proof wall. For snug insulation, the inside walls and ceiling may have a half-inch diameter sheet of composition board, after which the whole interior should be whitewashed. Whitewashing should be done at the beginning and end of each breeding season to keep the place spic and span, free of mites and disease. Finishing the outside depends on how much you care to spend. The cheapest method is to paint or creosote the walls and tar-paper the roof. The outside may also be entirely tar-papered or, if you wish to make a neat, attractive building, you may use the many styles, designs and colors of imitation brick or shingle siding which are available.
If you build the solid 2 to 3 foot wall from the ground all around the outside aviary flight, your birds will be protected from cats, rats, mice and snakes above ground. However, you won't keep the enclosure free from intrusion with this wall only, as mice and rats burrow underground. It is necessary to dig a IY2 foot deep trench all around the outside flight. Y4 inch gauge wire netting tarred or painted should be placed around the flight cage base lx/2 feet into the ground. One edge of the netting should be nailed along the base with 14 Parrot Family Birds d Flooring: Another method of protection against underground burrowing vermin, if you have a dirt or sod flooring, is to cover the whole enclosure floor with 1/4 inch netting embedded a few inches under the soil. It will be too expensive to do this if you are building several breeding pens, and won't be necessary if you have the more desirable concrete flooring. The netting laid along the trench outside, should be used in either case to make your aviaries absolutely vermin-proof. A floor of earth, even though turned over regularly, can be a breeding place for avian diseases which will wipe out your flock. The excreta of a sick bird remains in the soil. It is a fact that Turkeys are so susceptible to fowl diseases that they are raised in pens well off the ground, unless they are on an open range. Turkeys are kept well away from the hardier chicken, which should apply to cage birds also. Concrete flooring should extend below the frost line, by being partly filled with a layer of gravel or cinders. In your locality, you may find out how much or how little you have to excavate so your cement floor won't heave or crack in cold weather. For easy cleaning and quick drying, a few drainage holes should be made around the enclosure with 1/4 inch net- Breeding and Housing in Captivity 15 t Whether you are building one breeding enclosure or several, a quick and thorough cleaning of the pens may be facilitated through the following suggestions: The concrete flooring may be graded in three ways to enable water, excreta, etc., to flow off freely and dry quickly. It may be either slanted slightly from a raised center down to the side drainage holes, or else the floor may be raised slightly on the sides and rear, and graded to a depression in the center forming a groove leading to a drainage hole. Still another method would be to raise the flooring in the rear and grade it down slightly to the front, where water will run into a groove leading to a drainage pit. Where a row of breeding pens are laid out, all the flooring may lead to a single groove for drainage. Using a hose either alone or with a broom once or twice a week is sufficient to keep the above laid-out cement floors clean and quick drying. You may also sprinkle sand or sawdust on the floor to absorb droppings. |
ou may find that your bird is plucking its pin feathers. Suggested remedies for bird disorders will be given later in this book. This is also the time when looking your bird over, to apply the proper insecticide powder with a small rubber bulb blower under the feathers close to the body where mites would be found. Even if your bird doesn't have any mites, a once-a-month delousing is a good preventative. This is best done in the evening, so that the powder will remain among the feather shafts overnight. 
t. In talking ability the African Grey Parrot is said to be the most proficient among birds. However, by careful comparison it seems that the Greater Indian Hill Mynah and the Javan Hill Mynah, which is the larger, are more distinct in pronunciation, with more human tonal qualities than African Grey or Amazon Parrots. Hill Mynahs don't seem to need as much prompting as Parrots do to start talking. They will answer words or whistles in a few seconds. Some have lived over 30 years with proper care. Parrots on the other hand 
learest voice is that of a child, next a woman's and lastly a man's. When the record is made it should be played at different times during the day, and it will surely drill the lesson into your bird. Let's hope that you can stand hearing the sound of your own voice frequently. It is important when making a record, to limit it to a few words or a phrase only. If you change over to 
ines won't touch growing vegetation, but most will destroy it. In that case color and shade may be created around your aviaries by growing attractive vines, such as the various species of Morning Glories, Clematis, Thunbergia, etc. In the South, Bougainvillea, Allamanda and many others are suitable. Kudzu Vine, Dutchman's Pipe and the Ivies furnish dense shade but insignificant flowers. These vines may be trained over wire or string stretched across and fastened a foot from the cage netting to prevent their destruction by the birds.
ouble pointed tacks (staples), or else embed this end in the cement flooring. A better method is to fasten the netting with laths. The other end of the netting should be bent at right angles away from the aviary and laid along the sides of the trench. The reason for bending it in this manner is that a mouse, burrowing down the side of the aviary, is discouraged when it encounters the mesh leading away from the direction it wants to go. The specification of 1/4inch mesh is made because a very young mouse can actually go through the more commonly used 1/2 inch mesh. This has actually happened in aviaries where the baby mouse got in. It couldn't leave the same way, as its full tummy couldn't go through the % inch mesh. Many birds, even small ones, are not afraid of mice, however, their droppings are poisonous to birds and they will kill and eat nestlings. Thin galvanized or corrugated sheet metal may also be used instead of % inch netting.
ing over them. At the spot where the holes lead into the ground, fill in a square-foot hole with stones for drainage. An occasional sprinkling of chlorinated lime powder will keep this hole free from odors and germs.