Subject/ Area: Fiji Islands
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Kavala Bay and Tiliva Resort: Kavala Bay is a deeply inset bay on the N side of Kadavu, and offers great protection from all winds except N-NW. And even with a moderate N, the anchorage is protected by a shallow reef. The anchorage is shown on the Calder Guide: 7m of water, right next to the concrete wall, (dinghy landing) of the village store. From here, you can walk to the store, (basics, bread, frozen meat, ice cream, gas, diesel, kerosene), the village to do sevu sevu with the Elders, or to a beautiful 40 meter waterfall with pool. ($3-5 entry or give a gift or service to the family). The Tiliva Resort will pick up divers and/or diners from this bay and take you to their very lovely resort on the NE side. Barbara and Kim, owner-managers have created a fine quality hide-away that offers amenities not found in any other resort on the S or E side of Kadavu. They have gone great lengths to create an atmosphere of quiet nature, balmy breezes and lapping waves, with pleasing touches of Fijian art and history, natural woods and fibers. Each of the 6 large bures has ensuite baths beautifully crafted furniture of local wood, and wide decks and terraces that are placed to catch the sea breezes. There’s a British Colonial feeling of bringing civilization to the wild; high tea with china service in a jungle setting. Having worked in the hospitality field ourselves for many years, we could see the eye for detail, and the huge effort they make to provide what most visiting metropolitans would take for granted (salads with variety lettuce, carrots and tomatoes grown organically on site, freely pouring salt from an open salt dish, 24 hr electricity, and hot, unlimited showers). We think it would make a wonderful day for a party of buddy boaters to do some morning dives on the Great Astrolabe Reef, have a fresh, delicious lunch, (We enjoyed Mahi Mahi, home-made fries and salad) and a walk up to the overlook for great views of the reef and islands and lagoon colors. They can be contacted by e-mail enquiries@tilivaresortfiji.com
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As noted, most resorts have a dive center. All of them were clean, neat, had good, recent gear. The dives are usually done from the ubiquitous long, open, fiberglass runabouts that abound in Fiji. Rates for dives were about the same at all resort: $70/dive (tanks and wts only), $130-140 for 2-tank AM dive, extra to rent any gear or suits. Best deals for multiple dives packages. As noted, some will pick up at nearest anchorages. For drift dives or dives long distances away, or especially good sites, dive centers are the best way to go. Note: all resorts have accords with the corresponding villages to dive their waters. Yachties wishing to dive on their own should go to the village chief of each site and make the sevu sevu and request permission to dive. You may or may not have to pay a fee to dive. We dislike the idea of locals thinking of us as a new source to make a buck off of, so whenever fees are requested, we prefer to offer a gift of something we have that would be useful to them or the village. One calm, sunny day, the folks from “Manu Kai”, a California boat, took their dinghy and we took ours, the 1 mile out to the Alacrity Rocks, which, according to the Lonely Planet Dive and Snorkel Guide had good diving, with swim-thrus and grottos. Of course, these guides never give the exact location, so we just went to a likely area on the outer side of the reef and “winged-it”. By swimming out in the blue a little, we could barely discern the silhouette of a huge bommie, which led us to others, and finally found an area of 3-4 bommies with areas to swim through, and grottos and interesting topography. Later, we went with the GPS to the place we thought we had swum to underwater. The tops of the bommies are about 20-25ft deep, and the bottom is about 50-60ft. The GPS location we got is: 18 52.340’ S, 178 26.616 E. Korolevu Pass: We anchored on the east side of the entrance of Vagaloa Bay on a coral and sand patch (19 02.3’S, 178 26.1E). Took the dinghy out to the pass and Drift snorkeled the NE side on the incoming tide, from the outside corner and along the wall. The drop-off is very dramatic, and the wall is velvety with masses of purple soft coral. All the color and vibrant life looked to be within the first 50ft-60ft of depth. The most fish life and action was on the outside corner where the fish wait for food coming in on the current. Naigoro Pass: We anchored on the bank behind the barrier reef near the pass ( 19 00.8’, 178 29.4’). Snorkeled both sides of the pass on the ingoing current. The N side has the most life, and the outside corners of both sides had lots of fish action. Like Korolevu, the best color and life was less than 60ft. There were patches of beautiful soft corals, gorgonians and living hard corals, but overall, there was less density of marine life. Astrolabe Reef East of Ono: Don’t attempt this in your own dingy! We went with Waisalima Resort’s dive operation. They know a way over the reef on the higher tides during mild wind conditions. First dive was on a dramatic drop-off with spectacular panoramas of the vibrant reef and interesting topography. About half way through, we swam through the site’s namesake: The Arch. Here, the reef is alive with very healthy corals even at 40 meters depth. The second dive was at a site called Turtles Lair. The turtles were away, but the reef, again was quite healthy and visibility again great. Papageno Dive Center: in Aug 05, the manager, Isaac, a New Zealand born, had been here about a year. He ran Dive Kadavu for 3 years and has dived extensively all around Kadavu. He’s a young man full of smiles and open to new ideas and ways to work with people. He will go to far away dive sites for only a few people, can arrange special trips to see manta rays and Cape Washington, and offers special rates to yachties. Beautiful resort with good food, great diving offered by a veteran team, peaceful anchorage close by, and special prices for yacht folks, all these make Papageno a must-stop. Pacific Voyager is a wreck dive (110’-80’deep) on a 230ft fuel carrier that was cleaned up and sunk 7 yrs ago, 5 mins from the resort. It’s just starting to get marine growth, but is a good wreck dive anyway. Sharkfeeding, Manta rays, soft coral heaven, swim-thrus, overhangs, tours with Disney-World-fantasy-land colors and scenes, haven’t seen diving approaching this since our Red Sea diving days! Islands on the way from Suva/Levuka towards Savusavu: Wakaya Island: This entire island is the property of a very exclusive resort for the rich and famous. The accommodations appear to be private villas built into the landscape and scattered all over the island. No one is allowed ashore, but yachts are allowed to anchor in the lagoon and even in the bay (Nuku Tubu) on the northern tip of Wakaya, although this anchorage always has a side swell. There is not much to recommend a stop except perhaps the scuba diving. The Aggressor dive boat, “Sereni Wai” moors at the Daveta Ni–kavu pass and dives the sheer drop-offs on the outside. We snorkeled over the area, but due to mechanical problems to be solved aboard, left without diving it or exploring the other passes. Makogai: Within the same reef system as Wakaya, Makogai, a former Leper Colony, is easy to approach thru the western pass (17 26.911S, 178 53.816E), which had a channel marker on the S side. We left for Savusavu thru the N pass, which has no markers and could be dangerous on an approach from seaward in cloudy, overcast wx, as it has no clear-cut breaking reefs for reference. We anchored in a nice little bay with good sand and few coral heads in 25’ (17 26.016S, 178 57.922E) fairly close to the N pass. Snorkeling and spear fishing was good around the big bommies in the pass and outside, but be sure to ask permission and check your catch with the villagers because there IS ciguatera in some of the fish. Also, the waters inside the lagoon are a marine reserve. The “village” is actually a turtle and giant clam breeding station. It’s worth a visit to see their efforts to repopulate these endangered species. We took a 5K, easy, shaded walk on the old road to the settlement on the other side. If you have the time, this is an interesting walk to see the ruins of the former Leper colony, and to marvel at the engineering efforts of the French Catholics which are now being overgrown and lost back to the jungle (not the missionaries :); as extinct as the leprosy for which the efforts were made. The best reward of the walk is the view at the end overlooking the settlement, the valleys, the lagoon and reef, and the neighboring island of Wakaya. The live-aboard dive boat mentioned above, dives the passes and outside the northern reef. We were treated to a few seconds of snorkeling with pilot whales outside the pass (mid-Sept), as they happened to pass all around the dinghy as we drifted. Save-a-Tack Pass, Namena Reef: there is one channel marker at the S entrance on the E side of the pass (17 07.512S, 179 04.310E). Saw yachts anchored in 30ft of water next to Namena Island. There is also an upscale resort there. The N entrance had no channel markers and seemed to be more a wide area with no breaking reefs rather than a “pass”. We passed over a 20ft spot, but the rest was at least 60-70ft. (17 04.117S, 179 06.185E) Waypoints listed are our references for entering/exiting the pass. Supposed to be some great diving on this reef, sadly we did not get to experience it. VANUA LEVU CM93 Charts are inaccurate on the Eastern Regions of Vanua Levu and Taveuni. While the CM93 Charts were quite accurate in Kadavu, they are not in this region. The features are pretty true relative to each other, but they are offset relative to position on the charts, and the offset varies depending on where you are. DO NOT depend solely on GPS waypoints taken from your chart program to navigate through tricky reefs. And, as many others before us have stated, Fiji has some of the most difficult waters to read with eyeball navigation. We have had a few near misses, and a couple of light no-damage touches! If you have to travel in cloudy weather, (too common in most of Fiji) take the route with the most margin for error, and keep a very attentive bow watch (or in the spreaders). Traveling when the tide is mid to low can help you see those very shallow reefs, as they will be exposed or perhaps breaking, whereas with a 6 ft tide difference they may be just lurking where you can’t see them in the murky water. Savusavu: The bay of Savusavu is a huge bay on the central south side of the island of Vanua Levu, but the town, Port of Entry, and marinas (Copra Shed and Waitui Marina) and cruisers’ hub is tucked into the southeast corner in a very narrow and protected area called the Nakama Creek area. This has probably become the most popular check-in port for yachts since it was granted this status about 5 yrs ago, and it has developed into a cruiser’s hub with all kinds of support, activities, and info especially for those new to Fiji. This is partly due to the efforts of Curly Carswell that you probably met well before you even arrive in Fiji on the SSB radio net, The Rag of the Air (hosted by Jim on “Also II” Freq: 8173 at 1900 Z.). Curly also runs an SSB net on Freq: 4030 at 0630 local, and VHF net on ch 14 at 0830 local. This port is SO popular, and the Nakama Creek area is so narrow, that anchoring and mooring space becomes very limited at the height of the season when yachts are arriving from Tonga or other points to the N and E. Both Copra Shed and Watui Marina offer moorings for rent and some dock spaces (stern to). Both marinas have renovations and extension projects underway. Curley also has some moorings for rent. The Savusavu Marina Village, a big condo/shopping mall/marina project of Robin Irwin is finally starting construction after 20 yrs of waiting! So there may be more changes soon in the area. Locals are amazed at how Savusavu area has changed in the last 10 years! The officials here are the most “by-the-book” so far. (An alternate, never-crowded and painless Port of entry is Levuka, previously described. It is easy to go from Levuka to Savusavu or Suva, and you can break up the trip into day sails.) If you like plenty of cruiser activities, happy hours, inexpensive theme meals, help with things like getting fuel, butane, laundry services, organized seminars and tours, Savusavu is the place! Curly’s Bosun’s Locker is an information, internet, and help center that can assist you in many areas such as getting your cruising permit for Fiji waters, and an invitation to visit one of the islands in the Lau Group. Bebi Electronics is situated in Curly’s bosun locker. Cruisers, Mike and Kendra and their local partner Joe Prasad (that we didn’t meet) are the producers of powerful small white LED lights that use so little energy. We bought 2 anchor lights (1 masthead + 1 deck), 1 cockpit light and 2 spotlights. Mike also repairs all kinds of electronics such as radios, autopilots and wind generators. See Kendra for details. The Sea View Café has Cruiser Special Dinners for really great prices. The Aussie BBQ nite is a great value for money at $8 Fiji for a 3-course meal! The sausage was flavorful, and the steak was tender and tasty. They also put on theme meals such as Mexican and Indian for “yachtie prices”, and they provide a venue for the seminars and cooking class put on by Curly and his staff. Lots of fun and socializing! The Wai Tui Marina started Friday BBQ nites for an incredible $6 Fiji. The friendly staff manned the meat and fish grill and served up salads and side dishes family-potluck style. The Copra Shed marina has now a new Japanese/seafood restaurant called Cruiser’s. Tomo, the owner is a very nice fellow whose hope is to give a new option in food to the area. The Copra Shed complex has also a café and the Savusavu Yacht Club bar. On a more up-scale level, the ‘Surf and Turf’ restaurant in town, upstairs across from the bus station, is owned by Atesh, the Executive Chef of the Cousteau Resort. The clean, contemporary décor, air conditioning, and thickly cushioned chairs are a treat, as is the cuisine. Artfully presented selections such as BBQ Baby Octopus and salad dressed with sweet chili and balsamic vinegar, and Fillet Mignon and Garlic Prawns with Siraz demi-glaze and plantain chips reflect Atesh’s influence. Prices range from $12 to $50 for dinner mains or as little as $4 – $6 for lunch specials. The Bula-Re owner is a Trans-Ocean cruising station, her restaurant and art shop is opposite the post office, and she rents cars too. Savusavu was great for renewing friendships with folks we hadn’t seen in a while, and to meet new cruisers. Naveria Heights Lodge and Activities: This young couple, Sharon and Beat specialize in fitness and health, and have activities ranging from easy walks to an isolated village, to rigorous hikes and bush walks to hot springs and waterfalls, mountain biking, and aqua-activities. Meals emphasize health and well being. Labasa: (Lam-ba-sa) When there are many yachts in Savusavu harbor, Curly can arrange a bus trip for Cruisers to the largest city on Vanua Levu, Labasa. The 2-½ hr ride includes commentary on the way, and if the planets align correctly, and the season is right, there could be a tour of the sugar mill, (we missed out). The scenery changes as you traverse the island, and there are some nice views. Labasa is the largest town on the island, (tho still only medium-sized) having a better produce market, larger supermarkets, and more hardware and industrial supplies than Savusavu. You could also rent a car, or take the local bus to Labasa if there is no trip offered, but we heard stories from other cruisers about very bad roads and deplorable cars, or crowds and limited return buses, and even an incident of a bag being lifted by young boys (who were later caught and punished). Natewa Bay: Lomalagi Resort: Jackie had a treat for her birthday: a night, a lobster dinner, and breakfast at this up-scale hideaway resort known for its isolation and pristine views of the bay of Natewa! A young American couple was married that afternoon, the bride arriving for her vows on a bilibili, a Fijian bamboo raft, paddled by 2 Fijian warriors and 2 boy-warriors. The outdoor sunset wedding at the edge of the bay with misty clouds obscuring the far shores as mere silhouettes was beautiful as the rain lifted. Collin and Terry, owner and manager, were the most gracious of hosts, making sure the wedding was a uniquely memorable time for the young couple. We felt special ourselves to be included in the ceremony and the scrumptious dinner of slipper lobster, and wedding cake for dessert! Cousteau Resort: on the SE point of Savusavu Bay; just inside of the lagoon, after you pass the light marking the pass. You can find reasonable depth to anchor just north of the resort’s boat moorings on a shelf of sand interspersed among large coral heads. It was protected from strong SE. The resort is not especially cruiser friendly or unfriendly. You can land the dinghy at the pier, but please don’t leave it blocking access for the dive boats. The prices for drinks and meals reflect the more upscale clientele that is preferred. Expect to pay well over $100 Fiji for a dinner. There were cruisers who said it was worth the price for a fine meal. There were those shocked to pay over a $100 for 3 people for a lunch of sandwiches. Forewarned! We tried several times to go diving with the resort’s dive center but it never worked out! Yachts have tried stopping here before checking in at Savusavu, and some were fined when they later saw the officials. Fawn Harbour: Straightforward entrance with good light but we decided to wait outside when a wall of rain overtook us, and the island, the reef and the pass disappeared in the mist. The first marker is well inside the entrance so give it a wide berth to starboard. In fairly good light it is easy to see which side of the markers is the deep channel. Calder’ guide gives details. The CM93 Charts were actually pretty accurate for this bay. The mangrove anchorage in the West of the bay is well protected and has reasonable anchoring depth (<30ft). Another anchorage is found off the conspicuous blue-roofed house of the welcoming family with 2 kids (US/French). (The Pickering Plantation anchorage in the guide). The only access to shore is from here. There are Fijian homes here too. On the hillside is the home of Lima, who has hot spring pools beside a cool river on her land. You will need someone to guide you there. It is not a tourist attraction, and she wants to keep it pristine as a heritage for her offspring. Several yachts elect to base themselves here during the cyclone season. Dakuniba/Sosobu Bay: Well-protected anchorage in the mangrove (we would take our chances with a coming cyclone here!). David, Margaret, Dicky and their extended family are so welcoming to cruisers as their Gold visitor’s books attest. The family has a boat-building heritage and has a Fijian-made sailboat moored in front. We went night spear fishing with Dicky, did great hikes around with amazing views to other bays, went swimming in the pools at the village in the next bay West (also filled our water jugs), had kava ceremonies, Sunday lunch and lots of fun! A nice place: not to miss! The CM 93 Charts are quite far off for this pass and bay, even tho it is only 10 miles east of Fawn Harbor. Luckily, the pass is straight and deep and marked by sticks. One of the places where cruisers feel the most welcome (genuinely!) Viani Bay: We had heard about Jack and Sophie Fisher welcoming yachts here. This bay’s anchorage is close to the world-famous diving at Rainbow Reef. Great soft corals and very interesting dives are found all along the reefs on the West side of the Somo somo channel! If you have your own diving equipment (incl. tanks and compressor) for only F$10, Jack will accompany you to the famous dive sites. He will man your dinghy while you dive. Most dives are drift dives so you need someone to pick you up. The choice of which site to dive is very tide dependent; there can be strong currents. Without a knowledgeable guide, you could end up in a very dangerous situation, or won’t find the dive spots either! The other option, we took, is to dive with Roland from Dolphin Bay Divers. They are the only dive center on this side of the straits and the least expensive for Rainbow Reef area (all other operators are based in Taveuni > where the resorts are). So instead of 40 min boat rides from Taveuni, from Viani Bay you only have 10 min boat rides J. Viola & Roland operate a small friendly basic resort off Vanaira beach, a couple of bays north of Viani. We had an excellent dinner (~$15F) there and came back by dinghy to our boat after dark without problems (check where the reefs extend from the points of land). The dive boat will pick you up in Viani bay anchorage as their captain (Apex) lives there. It’s also possible to anchor in their bay. This super friendly couple (German/Swiss) will soon have their own place right next to Jack in Viani Bay so it will be even more convenient in the future. They plan to have Internet and laundry services too … anything we cruisers need J You can take dive courses too and prices are reasonable! Roland is a 9 yr veteran of Rainbow Reef diving. Genuinely nice people, with whom to dive those top dive spots ( info@dolphinbaydivers.com ). The White Wall was great, but we liked some of the other sites better for fish action and marine life. Island of Taveuni: Our first anchorage was off Somosomo village. After sevusevu with the paramount chief’s spokesman, we were welcome around all of Taveuni. Grocery stores, bread and more are nearby. From here, we took our scooters to explore the South part of the island. After a few miles of paved road, we had difficulties in muddy road … so we ended up hitchhiking to the South and coming back with the public bus (more sightseeing). A $4 taxi ride of 10 min got us to the water slides of Waitavala. The water zooms through a narrow channel frothing and boiling for about 50 meters, including a rooter tail bank in the curve, and spits the rider out in a deep pool at the end. The children were unafraid, some even sliding down standing skateboard style! We just enjoyed the series of deep pools and the bubbly natural Jacuzzis. Our second anchorage was further north, in front of Taveuni Island Resort. Can have swell here, so it is a little tricky to secure the dinghy safely (unless you roll or lift it passed the high water mark). The upscale Maravu Plantation Resort and Spa welcomes visitors who wish to dine on the open-air terrace overlooking the pool and it’s murmuring landscaped cascade. Thursday is Island Night buffet. We had a sumptuous Sunday breakfast buffet, where the chef cooked eggs to order in addition to the myriad of other hot and cold choices. The spa has many ways to pamper the tired body. For a real escape from the rolly anchorage, a stay in one of the spacious, air-conditioned, spa pool, Bures would be heaven! It’s worth at least having drinks or a meal there to enjoy the tropical garden ambiance. Our third anchorage was inside the reef on the very north end in front of two forested islands closest to the Matei area. This is the area with the most concentration of restaurants and beachfront accommodations, a couple grocery stores, and even a pastry shop!! It’s not entirely calm here, but the movement was less than on the open coast. The chart doesn’t show it, but there are many deep openings in the barrier reef, and deep water up to the little islands where we anchored in good sand in 25ft. Just stay outside the breakers going north until you see a wide opening giving you a straight shot at the space between the two islands. When we were there, there was a cabin cruiser moored in front of the southernmost island, and a blue roofed pearl farm building and pier on the other. On the northeast side of Taveuni, we hiked to all 3 Tavoro falls at the Bouma Park. Only 2 hours of walking up and back to see all 3 falls. Each one can be swum at and they are all different and worth it! Take your lunch with you and enjoy the day! You can go there by public bus but be aware that the last one leaves from Bouma at 2pm. We love island night buffets, and discovered 2 nice ones: Tovu Tovu resort’s on Friday, and Coconut Grove’s on Saturday. Fijian owned Tovu tovu’s buffet had a nice varied selection of dishes from the underground oven, and other local fare. Many resident ex-pats were there which speaks well for the quality and value for the $20 price. They have Internet services, and a dive center too. Coconut Grove is owned by Rhona, a vibrant American woman who grabbed the nicest beach in the area over 10 years ago and has made a success of her cozy, clean, resort, restaurant and craft shop. Now she gives back to the island by being in the Rotary Club doing altruistic volunteer projects with the local and international Rotary Clubs. We enjoyed the local music, kava, and buffet dishes on the terrace, sitting with Rhona and a Veterinarian/ ER Physician couple who came, with her help, to give medicines and services on the island. Rhona welcomes visitors for meals, and drinks overlooking her great beach and the anchorage. She has some beautiful selections of crafts and jewelry in her boutique. Buca Bay (BOO-theh): This bay made a convenient anchorage for us to return to Savusavu by bus to pick-up 8 Trojan golf cart batteries that didn’t make it before we left for Also Island for Christmas. Instead of sulking and waiting in Savusavu, we continued to cruise. Buda Bay is protected from all but northerly winds, and has good holding in dense mud. At the head of the bay, it shallows out gradually, and you can pick your depth. We chose to anchor close to the old rickety pier at the school grounds, because you could tie there at any tide, and the bus stops at the school. The bus ride on the regular bus was $4.30 ea way, and took about 2 1/2 hrs. There is an express bus from the village at 7AM, but it’s a long walk from the school or a long slog through mud at low tide. The regular bus passes the school twice, around 10 min to 8AM, and 10-15 min after. It leaves Savusavu around 2PM, giving enough time to do some shopping and some errands. The chief of the village and his family were nice and took us with them to the river. Having lived in NZ for 10 yrs, he was recalled to his village to succeed to his father. Interesting conversations with this modern Fijian chief! Rabi Island: We were disappointed to find out that we missed the Rabi (RAM-bee) Days Celebration, a weeklong affair starting December 15. This year was a special one too, as it was the 60th Anniversary of their relocation from their heritage island of Banaba, (aka Ocean Island) near Kiribati. They had traditional Dances and music on the opening day. The 4 villages of the island had sports competitions and social events during the week, and more dancing and music the last day. We anchored at 2 different anchorages, one, on the south west side looking at “picnic” beach, a pretty, white sand beach (marked Georgia’s Cove on the chart) (16 31.89S/179 58.17E) on plateau of about 12 –14 meters. This is a protected anchorage in E winds with an open approach. The second anchorage was in Katherine’s Bay, on the south side, protected from all sides except the SW, in 8 meters over mud surrounded by mangroves. There is an all-tide dinghy landing at the old copra shed of the village. The old church and the flamboyant trees on the hill, make a beautiful sight on entering the bay. Note: the channel marker marking the end of the reef extending out from the southern point of Rabi was no longer there. The people of Rabi are ethnologically very different from the Fijians, as they are from Micronesia, a very handsome people with smooth bronze skin, bright white teeth, and jet-black hair. The women are like Polynesians, as they tie back their long wavy hair and adorn it with flowers. The people we encountered were not as spontaneously friendly as the Fijians, but if you say “Mauri”, their greeting, they will smile and respond. Their best ambassadors were Wanati, and his wife Angie, the village’s brewers of Banaban’s favorite alcoholic drink, “toddy”. Wanati showed us how to prepare and cut the coconut tree flower, to collect the nectar, which is naturally sweet and pleasant to drink fresh. But, once they discovered the fermented version, “toddy” became the preferred form! We didn’t see the exact process, but it is naturally fermented pure nectar, no water or yeast added. The flowers are cut morning and afternoon (some also cut at noon) to keep the nectar flowing. When it’s “young” it’s pretty pleasant, when it’s “old” it’s almost undrinkable! This young couple also took us to their waterfall on a Sunday afternoon. We took the dinghy across the head of the bay, and then walked and scrambled up the river about 30 minutes to a 2-tiered fall. The upper tier cascaded into a deep (over 10 ft) pool carved into the composite rock. We ate lunch sitting on the lip of the pool looking over the edge at the pool below. Every week-day, three times a day, a truck transports people and school children to the village on the south side (the one you see from Georgia Cove anchorage), then a bus leaves this village, and takes folks to the next two villages, the last being Nuku, the administrative center. There is only one other car on the island. It’s 50 cents for the truck and another 50 cents for the bus each way. A bargain price to see the 4 villages of the island and some of the west coast! One of the nicest sights around Rabi is the people still sailing small outrigger canoes to go fishing! Their sails are made from the ubiquitous blue plastic tarps you see all over the South Pacific. If any of you have old sails on board, you’ll make someone happy if you stop at Rabi!!
On the rest of the days, activities included taking our dinghy up the nearby river 10-15 km, on the way we found a great little niche in the mangroves protected from wind and seas in case of cyclone (could make it into the river with our 5 ft draft at high tide). To the west, around another point or two, we went with the Also V, Jim’s run-about, 10 miles up an even larger river to take Kyoko to a bridge where she could catch a bus into Labasa. Went to a fund-raising event at Nukusa village where we saw our first meke, traditional village dancing. Swam at the waterfall of Cawaro village, and snorkeled at the pass north of Bekana island. We participated in hauling out a 40ft wooden motor vessel, the “traditional” way with logs serving as the railway and men from 3 different villages serving as the “winch”, by pulling and pushing. Amazing what manpower can do! Jim will be very busy repairing this boat with its seized up engine, and the wood full of worms and rot! The village on the isolated island of Cikombia depends on this vessel, as it’s only means of contacting the outside. Yadua Island (yan-DOO-ah): We took the route along the south coast of Vanua Levu, from Savusavu, through Nasonisoni Channel to Yadua. This route is discussed in the guides, and can be broken up into day-sails. After a great sail from our last anchorage in Vanua Levu, with successful fishing, we rounded to the south of Yadua’s reefs and anchored in the bay on the west side. With good light, it’s easy to see the entrance between two long arms of reef, and to avoid the one head that’s inside on the way to the anchorage. We anchored in front of the beach that has the little thatched shelters near the shore. There’s good sand between the coral heads. The waters around Yadua are beautiful clear blue, a rarity in Fiji. There are no rivers on this side. It’s a 2 hour hike each way to the village on the east side, mostly unshaded, but with rewarding views of the bays and reefs. We saw that the eastern bay, which guides describe as an anchorage, has a very narrow tricky opening and is a minefield of reefs inside. We looked for the Chief to present him the Kava, but he was watching the Rugby tournament on TV (Fiji was in the finals!). The Park Warden accepted our sevusevu gift on behalf of the chief. Yadua’s small island on the SW side is designated a natural park and reserve for the rare indigenous iguana found only here. The waters around the area are also a marine preserve. The Warden comes very often to the bay, and will undoubtedly stop by to greet you and tell you about the Park and Reserve. You will probably be able to present your kava for the Chief to him. If you want to see the iguanas, a Park guide must accompany you. We snorkeled on the reef extending out from the point on the south end of the bay. The hard and soft corals were prolific and vibrantly healthy, there were many swim-thrus and grottos cut into the coral giving that cathedral effect as the sunrays beamed down through fissures and holes in the reef. We planned to scuba the next day with the park warden, who said there were many great dive sites on the South side, but the perfect wind came up to take us south to Nanu-I-Ra, and Volivoli Point on Viti Levu, so, we hoisted sail instead. General changes Fiji-wide: Since a few years, pending laws are negotiated to have the waters, reefs and lagoons returned from government control to control by the villages to which they were traditionally accorded ownership rights. What this means to us yachts is that technically we may have soon to request permission from each village to anchor or do any activity in their waters or reefs. We believe that doing the traditional sevusevu presentation of Kava roots to the highest chief, and having your cruising permit in order, should fulfill the requirements. But we have heard that some Fijians now see this proposed change as a way to already cash in on users. Some villages still charge extra fees to dive, surf, fish, or visit landmarks. If locals approach you asking for money for this reason, be sure that you are giving fees to those who have the authority to give you permission. Only time will tell how each village will handle this new power if received. Viti Levu, clockwise from SE to NW: Beqa (Beng-gah) Lagoon: We anchored on the west side between Rukua village and the resort, between two long arms of reef, in 25-30ft, mostly sand with isolated coral heads. The village is very neat, with concrete walkways lined with flowers and ornamentals. Rukua is more traditional in custom: women should wear sulus (long skirts); hats and backpacks should be hand carried, not worn. Sunglasses are ok, but it is polite to remove when talking to someone. Made sevusevu with the Chief and family. The son guided us to the small waterfall (40 min walk with some nice views of the sea). Small pool for bathing, but it’s refreshing to stand under the falling water. Delicious mandarins and oranges were in season. Simon, from Rukua village, is a PADI Divemaster, who can go with you in your dinghy to show you the sites and serve as dive guide ($25 F), or can take you and your equipment to the sites with his small boat ($50). Simon’s brother, Manasa, is one of the veteran shark feeders for Adventure Divers. We did not dive with Simon, but he seems serious and responsible. Beqa Lagoon Resort: an older resort, it is constantly being renovated. There are many, many moss-covered stone sculptures throughout the grounds, especially around the Lily Pond bungalows, which have individual ornately inlaid doors and talisman stone carvings. Added with the lush vegetation, they give a feeling as if you have discovered a lost archeological village. There is a new tastefully designed swimming/reflection pool and patio; the perfect ambiance to enjoy a sunset cocktail, and fine dining in the covered restaurant. The dessert, Poire Belle Helene- exquisite! Mark, the new manager has many great stories from his years in the hotel business in Bali, PNG, and Indonesia. He graciously took a sponsorship on www.noonsite.com, to encourage yachties to enjoy what the resort has to offer. The dive center on site is run by the resort, and has built a reputation as a center for serious divers. Many dive clubs and shops from the US book group dive/accommodation packages, here, and many are repeats. They have 3 large and comfortable dive boats that take divers, morning and sometimes afternoons. We dove 2 sites out by the pass next to Yanuca island: Japanese Fishing Wreck and Three Sisters. The wreck had some good life, especially on the mast and railings. Both sites feature coral bommies rising from 18-24m of water to within 5-8m from the surface. We circled round and round them and at each level closer to the surface, it got more and more vibrant and colorful. There are giant sea fans and soft corals of pastel and earthy colors, and on top, it glitters with hundreds of impossibly brilliant petite tropical fish. There are also more than 25 dive sites on the reefs around Beqa lagoon with abundant soft and hard corals, gorgonians, and exotic reef fish. Pacific Harbor/ Beqa The bay in front of the Pearl Resort next to the breakwater entrance to Pacific Harbor, while having good holding in black sand at 20-30 ft depths, is totally exposed to all but North winds. We were lucky to meet Charlie, who owns Tropical Expeditions, a charter motor vessel docked just at the bridge, up the river about 500meters. After spending a rough night outside as the winds kicked up to 25 kts, and later 30 kts, we were happy to accept his gracious offer of a place to tie up in the quiet waters of the river, which has limited possibilities for a visiting boat to find a place along the banks. Originally from Savusavu, Charlie has been here over 30 years and pioneered the tourism and diving in the area. He does custom charters to anywhere around Fiji, and is set up for diving, fishing, surfing, or whatever activity the clients desire. Beqa is famous for dives where BIG sharks are fed. The dive centers that make these shark feeding dives are located in Pacific Harbor on Viti Levu, which is within the same barrier reef system, thus fairly protected waters, and a reasonable boat ride to the dive sites. We ourselves fed reef sharks in the Maldives, and have seen a number of reef shark feedings, but to date, we have never seen such large sharks fed, especially Bull sharks. Each center that feeds does so at it’s specific reef, as sharks are creatures of habit, and have established a report with the divers they know and trust. (and vice versa!) A $10 Park fee pp/trip goes to the Beqa villages with rights to these sites (charged by the Dive Center when you pay). We dived with two operations on their shark dive, and found the format to be slightly different at each. Each has roomy, well-equipped, covered, high-speed dive boats, and many safety divers for the feeding. This is one of the best places in the world to see big sharks, do not miss the opportunity! Beqa Adventure Divers is perhaps the most well known for their Big Fish Encounter. The Fijian divers have been nourishing these sharks for 7 yrs; Manasa and buddies each have their “pet” Bulls that feed directly from their hands only. This exhilarating dive is very well thought out and organized from both safety, and theatrical, standpoints. The first dive was a multi-level: Bulls at 30m, white-tip lagoon and gray sharks at 10m, and black –tips at the safety stop! And, at all levels, big crazy trevallys, snappers, and dozens of other schooling opportunists. Maximum excitement the dive minute! The 2nd dive is done entirely at 18m, up-close-and-personal with the Bulls! If you are very lucky, Scarface, 6 m tiger shark will show up!! They also work closely with the scientific community doing shark research, providing behavioral studies about these illusive creatures. We also did two reef dives with Andrew, the manager, and David, dive guide on some beautiful bommies rising like seamounts festooned with soft corals and gorgonians. An added bonus at the second site was a wreck at 30m. Aqua Trek-Beqa is located in the Pearl Resort. The first feeding dive starts at 24m. The sharks are not hand fed, but feed on their own from the copious amounts of fish parts that are doled out. Sometimes sharks are less timid to eat if the food is not held and you can see more competitive ripping and tearing. On the other hand, visibility can diminish from all the fish stirring up the bottom. The second half of the dive, you ascend the reef and can circle around viewing the coral and the deep drop-off. The second dive was 18m and the sharks came much, much closer. We could see the small yellow pilot fish leading the bull, and the pimples on his nose!! There were also some huge nurse sharks, which are less inhibited to chow down. As we ascended to the safety line at the end of the dive, one bag of fish had slipped into the danger zone and was left. We got a bird’s eye view of 3 awesomely huge bull sharks shredding it to pieces, uninhibited now that the annoying bubble-makers had gone. Robinson Crusoe Island: This yacht-friendly island makes a great stopover anchorage when making the trip from Suva to Nadi or Lautoka. The entrance through the barrier reef is wide and position is quite accurate on the electronic CM93 charts. The route to the anchorage near the moorings of the resort boats is pretty evident on a low tide, as the shoals are uncovered; not so at higher tides. There are a couple of markers, but the best is to radio the resort on ch 10 VHF for directions or a guide boat. There is plenty of water inside, contrary to what is marked on the charts. We anchored just outside the resort boat moorings in <20ft of water at mid-tide. One caveat, there are very strong tidal currents in the anchorage, so make sure to dig the anchor in, allow swinging room, and make sure the dinghy motor is running well before you cast off from the big boat! Not only does it provide great protection from the prevailing trades in reasonable depths and good holding, but Yacht Club Membership costs only $1 F plus a bottle of beer at the bar, and entitles you to inexpensive meals, 10% discount on drinks and other purchases, free dance shows, use of facilities, (except showers and laundry), and yachtie’s price on the shuttle boat to Viti Levu. Partner couples, Ann and Ron, Wayne and Kaz have turned this island into a proto-type Eco-conscious resort and a rising star in the Island Dance and Fire Show entertainment arena. We attended two of the 6 performances of the week, and were very impressed with the quality, energy and enthusiasm of the dance troupe. Each performance vibrated with their dedication to making every show seem like opening night; no indication that it was dead season, the hottest time of the year, or the 6th show of the week! The troupe is striving to become the most re-known Fire and Knife Dance performers in all of Fiji. The strength and stamina required for these dances is phenomenal. Aboard-a-Dream Nautilus Dive Center: located on the RC resort grounds, this center is run by a very nice German couple, Tommy and Nadine. The dives are conducted on the long barrier reef that runs the length of the southwest coast of Viti Levu. They do one and two tank dives and Padi Certification courses. On our dive with them, there was a dramatic drop-off with swarms of snappers; we also saw a turtle, blacktip reef shark, napoleon wrasse, and clown trigger. Their project is to run their own mini live-aboard dive boat all around Fiji later! Momi bay: We decided to stop at the Seashell Cove Resort (South side of the bay) to break our trip. Luckily for us, On Saturdays, they have their lovo/meke night. Had an interesting chat with Virginia, the mgr who started the resort 20 yrs ago! Beware of the shallow plateau that extends far from shore and that you may not see at high tide (charts are accurate). Follow the dinghy channel marked by sticks, to get to the resort. Next morning, we met Sean & Michele, the Scuba Bula dive operators. Went for a 2-tank dive with them outside of Navula pass. Nice overhangs and tunnels. June-Sept is the best time to spot big pelagics, mantas, maybe even a whale shark! Best spot for surfing here too! (they had a big contest last week!). Just North of the Seashell, we saw the new Marriott Hotel in construction. They reclaimed the whole shallow reef area in front of their property. The plan is to have the top hotel of the chain here! Complete with marina and Disney World! Does the world change!!! |