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Handlooms


In sericulture, ancient Kamarupa covering the present North Eastern States including parts of present Bangladesh and West Bengal occupied a prominent place as the centre of the four varieties of slik: viz, Paat, Muga, Eri and Tasar. No other state in India other than Assam nor even any country in the world produces all the varietsies of silk; Assam is the original home of Eri silk while in Muga silk productions she holds monopoly in the world.

(Refer to proposals under Sualkuchi below)


Sualkuchi


Sualkuchi is a medieval town and was perhaps the first urban settlement in Assam. Sualu is the tree from which the leaves are fed to the Muga Silkworm Antherea assama; and Kuchi means cluster. Sualkuchi is the silk textile capital of Assam and in a sense of North East India. Sulakuchi is on the north bank of Brahmaputra 32 km west of Guwahati. People across the locality to the extend of 75% and from outside are involved in the silk Industry here. The dependency is from loom owners to wage weavers, helpers, yarn winders etc.

Sualkuchi was originally a ‘Crafts Village’ having several cottage industries till the forties of the last century. In addition to handlooms, several crafts work used to take place. Presently, however most of the artisans and local people across backgrounds have taken up silk weaving as a profession.

The looms are engaged in weaving traditional fabrics used mainly by women viz. Mekhela and Chadar, though now they find products in sarees- particularly Muga sarees, Dhara and Jainsem dress materials etc. The artisans of Sualkuchi weave mostly Paat and Muga fabrics, although now a days Tasar is also woven. Muga silk is the speciality of Assam ad Muga cocoons come frm Upper Assam, Bako and Garo hills area. Sualkuchi still relies on traditional techniques and is yet to make use of the modern technologies available in weaving. The handloom industry here ahs created several employment and income avenues.

Every household in Sualkuchi is involved in the silk trade. There were basically four types of silk: pat, muga, mezankari and eri. While the other varieties (barring mezankari) are found elsewhere, Muga Antherea assama (till very recently) was grown in Assam only. In medieval times the best quality Muga came from the Kamrup district (where Guwahati and Sualkuchi is presently situated). It was the great center for export of raw Muga silk. This silk was used for ornamentation of cotton fabrics by the artisans in Dacca for export to Persia.

Sualkuchi is still special place to visit as even today every household in this town has a loom working. Extraction of the silk yarn from Muga cocoons using traditional methods can be seen in Sualkuchi. The cocoons are brought from Upper Assam and the Garo hills.

DEVELOPMENT PROPOSALS:

Product planning



    Diversifying the Muga weaving industry & products specific to tourists:

  • Most of the products here are meant mainly for Assamese customers as more are in Mekhela Chadar etc. However, there is big scope for Domestic customers from elsewhere in India and even International Customers if modified to a form used by them.

  • More products in terms of Sarees may be produced, coupled with a marketing platform or a channel. Even highlighting the fact that 3 plies are used in a thread against 2 plies used in Benares or Kanchipuram can be become an attractin to buy.

  • Product diversification to bed covers, sofa covers, door/ window screens- high end.

  • Designs including one horn rhino of Assam- sold near Kaziranga or so.

  • Scarfs, mug etc with local designs

  • Design institute to be engaged to design products, prototypes, designs and give trainings to larger community

  • Silk fabrics made out of Muga, Tasar, Mulberry etc can be sued to stitch into variety of garments like shirts, dresses etc. Tailor shop attached which can give in say 6 hrs for dresses. Shirts can be ready mades.

  • The products need to be more innovative.

  • Financial institutions should come forward to support. Particularly to create and retain for seasons in offseason period.

  • Cotton fabrics- cotton looms- traditional Gamcha of different sizes and designs, cheaper variety of Mekhela and Chadar. Even for dresses.

  • Housewives sit on the looms during the off time after doing the domestic world and while chatting with neighbours. Setting up common workshops (eg Kaziranga model) of women co-operatives with say 10 women together will improve the situation.

  • Scarfs with dyed yarn of different colours with good designs have seasonal demand- particularly in the Eri looms. Eri clusters like Rampur can be taught the dyeing techniques.

  • Marketing:

  • Marketing products: tie ups with private stores, Ecommerce portal, Sale centres of few co-operative societies together (will add competition, better quality and better designs).

  • To establish links with research and reputed international designs institution based in New York, London and Paris.

  • The institute established at Ladoigarh, Jorhat (Assam) deals with Muga and Ericulture has to be linked with international universities and premier institutes like nift, nid etc.

  • Industry needs:

  • Rearing sheds for Eri or Mulberry indoor rearing

  • Financial assistance & Training for Vermi-compost to silk farmers

  • Scientific rearing equipment/ kit for maximising productivity

  • Plantation infrastructure facility at a nominal fee

  • Insurance cover for muga commercial farmers

  • Training & support in latest rearing technology

  • Assistance for augmenting silk plantations.

  • Need for bank credit

  • Muga fabrics for export purpose

  • Few co-operatives/ handloom centres can volunteer to be part of tourist itenary to show and explain the entire process from cocoon rearing to finished product and different types of Assamese silk- a charge could be taken

  • Empanelment of co-operatives and shops from where tourist can shop at assured quality and reasonable price- as at present there is high price tourists have to pay- this information is known to tourist

  • Promotion of annual silks mela

  • Landscaping of town with avenue plantations

facilitation planning

  • Full fledged Tourist Information / Visitor Amenity Centre including:

  • Tourist Information counter

  • Provision of Guides from counter here

  • Promotional Material made available here

  • Travel rentals counter

  • Waiting area with seating for 10 persons

  • 4 toilets each for men and women.

  • Purified Drinking water Provision

  • Waste Bins

  • Directional and informational signages

Infrastructure planning

  • Widening of 15kms road from NH52

  • Improvement of Sualkuchi- Hajo road (10 kms)

Costs and Phasing

The costs for the proposed development for Handlooms and Sualkuchi related development and the proposed phase of development are as follows:



  1. Costs and Phasing: Handlooms and Sualkuchi related Development

Sr. No.

Development

Total Cost (in Lakh Rs.)

Phase of Development

Implementing Agency

 

Sualkuchi

 

 

 

1

Diversification of products- product development, capacity development and training by reputed design institute; training to local artisans- details as above

600

I/II

Tourism Dept/ Handicrafts

2

Product prototype development and training in non handloom tourist products

300

I/II

Tourism Dept/ Handicrafts

3

Setting up of common wokshops as co-operatives of women, NGO taken for same

150

I/II

Tourism Dept/ Handicrafts

4

Product marketing support

75

II

Handicrafts

5

Industry needs assistance (not covered in cost under tourism project)

 







6

Demonstration units (which are live) for tourists- basic tourist management facilities and support

75

I

Tourism Dept/ Handicrafts

7

Landscaping of town with avenue plantations

75

I

Tourism Dept

8

Tourist Information/ Amenity centre

50

I

Tourism Dept

9

Signages

10

I

Tourism Dept/ Handicrafts

10

Widening of 15 kms road from NH 52

450

I

PWD

11

Improvement of Sualkuchi- Hajo road

200

I

PWD

 

Total

1985

 

 


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