Birding Ecotours Complete Northern India and Cultural Extension February/March 2009 By Duan Biggs
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Day 9, March 1st. Pangot and the pheasant searchA predawn start today after some hearty morning coffee in the chilled mountain air saw us heading on our first attempt at the range-restricted and very tricky Cheer and Koklass Pheasants. Our search for the pheasants took us on an awe-inspiring mountain pass up the Vinayak Road to 2 500m above sea level. En route we enjoyed sublime views of the high Himalayas in the distance. The recent snowfalls had cleared the skies of the dust and cloud. Our Cheer Pheasant stake-out looks over ancient terraced fields in the valleys far below. It was a windy morning, and we had to find a wind-protected spot to pick up on some of the higher-altitude species. A mixed feeding flock (or shall we say tit flock) delivered Yellow-browed, Green-backed, and Grey Crested Tits and Black-throated Bushtit. Near the party of tits we had a Himalayan Vulture do a very close fly-by. A flock of Altai Accentors flew past and landed in a tree, to allow for better views. Higher up still, we located our first Long-tailed Thrush. It was a memorable morning, but we had no luck with the pheasants. Over lunch we had a pair of Black Eagles flying over. After lunch we made our way down the Baggar Valley. A pair of Peregrine Falcons patrolled a cliff-face above. Lower down we had success in locating Russet Sparrow, and we had brief views of Smoky Warbler. Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler was vocalizing in dense undergrowth but did not show itself, nor did the Blue-throated Barbet. We returned to our mountain lodge while watching the setting sun over the Ganges plains far below. 
Day 10, March 2nd. Marching the Baggar ValleyWe had an entire day dedicated to enjoying the birds in the idyllic Baggar Valley. In the upper slopes just below our lodge we had Green-tailed Sunbird, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, and Brown-fronted Woodpecker. At the stream-crossing below the Peregrine cliff our guide located a Long-billed Thrush hiding in a patch of dense undergrowth. It took him some time to get all of us onto this almost snipe-like bird. Along the same stream we enjoyed Blue-capped Redstart as well as a Phylloscopus feast: Buff-barred, Ashy-throated, and Lemon-rumped Warblers. A pair of Pink-browed Rosefinches perched on some stream-side rocks, while a pair of Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes remained elusive for quite some time, before everyone enjoyed a good view. A bright flash of red and yellow in the canopy above were a pair of both Long-tailed and Orange Minivets. We continued downwards and located a soaring Upland Buzzard and Grey-crowned Prinia. A pair of White-capped Redstarts were darting up and down the stream, where we stopped for lunch. A little lower down from our lunch stop our guide found the spectacular Fire-tailed Sunbird and Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike. A calling Blue-throated Barbet again refused to show itself. Back up the Baggar Valley we stopped again at the Smoky Warbler site for a brief try of our luck. No luck with the warbler, but we were treated to a group of Yellow-breasted Greenfinches. We returned to Jungle Lore Lodge for a brief afternoon coffee, before the more ardent tickers headed up to “woodpecker point” to see what else we could find. A delicate Red-flanked Bluetail (Orange-flanked Bush Robin), perched on the forest floor as we walked into the forest, had already made the outing worthwhile. We spent quite some time tracking down a vocalizing owlet before we were treated to glorious views of Asian Barred Owlet staring at us from the canopy above. Grey-winged Blackbird and a bird party containing Coal Tit and the higher-altitude White-tailed Nuthatch followed. A Northern Goshawk flew over, as did a Northern Raven. As we returned to our lodge in the last rays of the afternoon sun, a Large-tailed Nightjar was calling from the forest nearby, and a male Blue-capped Redstart provided lovely views. Day 11, March 3rd. Koklass Pheasant and the Kosi RiverThe zealous pheasant-finders were up pre-dawn once again for another stab at the Koklass and Cheer Pheasants. Our efforts were rewarded – a stroll up the mountain pass ahead of our van delivered excellent views of a pair of Koklass Pheasants. We breathed a sigh of relief. Then we worked a nearby bird party, which contained Himalayan Woodpecker. Also seen were goral (a species of mountain goat) and Bearded Vulture. Our luck did not hold, though, with the Cheer Pheasant, which eluded us once again. It was time to pack our bags and head back down the steep mountain passes towards the Kosi River and the nearby Corbett National Park. A stop at Sariya Tal delivered both Little and Spotted Forktails, much to the delight of the group. In the later afternoon we visited the Corbett Falls, where we were treated to the immaculate Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, the much sought-after Speckled Piculet, Asian Brown Flycatcher, and Lineated Barbet. We arrived at the famous Kosi River Barrage, with just enough light to spare to locate the resident Wallcreeper. Unfortunately, we had flight views only. A huge amassing roost of White-browed and White Wagtails along the barrage impressed. We arrived at the stylish Tiger Camp and enjoyed a lovely buffet feast for dinner. After a long day, one of the participants was the only one with the energy to join me in chasing after a vocalizing Brown Hawk-Owl. We were treated to lovely close-up views. |