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Uniform standards and maintenance


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UNIFORM STANDARDS AND MAINTENANCE

Every parade night, cadets are expected to wear some kind of uniform, and as such, the care of it becomes an important aspect of life in the cadets.


Different Types of Uniform:
Working Blues

  1. Parade Shoes

  2. Black Socks

  3. Belt

  4. RAF Grey/Blue Trousers

  5. Working Blue Shirt

  6. Jumper (September-May)
  7. Beret


  8. Brassard


Number 1 Uniform (Normally worn by band members and CWO’s)

  1. Parade Shoes

  2. Black Socks

  3. Belt

  4. RAF Grey/Blue Trousers

  5. No 1 Jacket

  6. Cap (peaked cap for female cap)



Wedgwood Blues


  1. Parade Shoes

  2. Black Socks

  3. Belt
  4. RAF Grey/Blue Trousers


  5. Wedgwood Blue (light Blue) Shirt

  6. Tie

  7. Jumper in cooler months

  8. Beret

  9. Brassard


DPM (Night Exercises, Camouflage and Concealment or anything else needing camouflage)

  1. Combat Boots

  2. DPM (disrupted pattern material) trousers

  3. Olive green or DPM shirt

  4. OG ribbed jumper (Not essential)

  5. DPM Combat jacket

  6. Beret


UNIFORM CARE





  1. Parade Shoes

To polish these, first strip them by gently heating in a flame from a candle or lighter, then use cotton wool or a rag to wipe of the polish as it melts. Do this until you reach leather. Then take a small amount of shoe polish – we recommend KIWI Parade Gloss – and get a small amount of water and some wet cotton wool. Put a little polish on the cotton wool and rub in a circle motion until all the polish has all gone into the shoe, and repeat. After 20-30 minutes, your shoes should come to a high shine. NB: Good shoes will look like glass.


  1. Trousers (no1, Standard)

The aim is to get sharp creases all the way up the trousers. The ideal way to do this is to use a trouser press, but as not all of happen to carry one around with us, we suggest lying the trousers flat on the ironing board. Then get some brown paper and lightly wet the side of the trouser where the crease will go. After this, lay the paper over it, using a hot iron, push down over the crease. Push down hard – within reason! – and move the iron over the length of the trousers, repeating for each leg. The crease should last for a long time.


  1. Belt

The belt is relatively easy to polish. First remove the buckle by carefully rotating the bar on the back, with the teeth holding it onto the belt. Now take some metal polish – e.g. – Brasso, using cotton wool rub over the surface. After a sort whole your belt should come to a high shine. NB: You frequently have to change your cotton wool as it soon goes black.


  1. Jumper

This is probably the easiest to maintain. All that is needed to keep it in good condition is, if starts to get “fluffy” then give it a quick shave, not literally with foam and a razor, but by using a small, inexpensive razor. Being careful not to cut the jumper, remove any sticking out fibres.


  1. Shirts OG, Wedgwood and Working)

These are fairly easy to maintain – just ensure that they stay neatly ironed. There is no need for excessive ironing. All that is required is that there are no creases where there shouldn’t be, and that there are no marks to stains on it. Ensure there is a sharp crease running from the top of the shoulder of the cuffs, as on a normal shirt.


  1. Beret

First steam your beret e.g. – over a kettle, being careful not to burn yourselves. Remove from the steam, and when cold, place it over your head. Make sure that the beret badge is over your left eye, and pull down the right side so that the badge sticks out a little. Then try and make the beret as smooth as possible.





  1. Brassard

Iron to sharp creases, roughly three finger lengthens from either side. Ensure there are no other creases

  1. Combat Jacket


Iron until flat. Remember that it’s DPM, so creases are hard to see. Irons all pockets flat against the jacket and sew on any missing buttons.


  1. DPM Trousers

Iron until flat. Remember that it’s DPM, so creases are hard to see. Iron all pockets flat against the jacket and sew on any missing buttons.
10.Combat Boots
When on a night-ex, or needing camouflage

Clean with water to remove any dirt off and put on a thin layer of polish. These boots do not have to be shiny.



Shooting and non-camouflage boots

Clean the boots with water, then dry. Take 2 brushes and use one to put the polish on and the other to brush it in. Then use the same methods as with parade shoes to buff the toecaps

Cadet badges are to be worn as stated:

Badges on the Brassard. The brassard is to be fitted over the right sleeve of the Jersey

or shirt and positioned above the elbow. The top of the brassard is to be fixed by a fabric

strap to the right shoulder strap of the Jersey or the shirt, as appropriate. The location of

badges on the brassard are:

(1) ATC Squadron Identification Badges. These are to be worn centrally at the

top of the brassard, 6mm from the top edge.

(2) ATC Badge. The embroidered distinguishing badge “Air Training Corps” is

to be worn in a central position immediately below the Squadron Identification Badge.

(3) Proficiency Badges. First class, leading or senior cadet badges are to be

worn in a central position immediately below the distinguishing badge with one

point of the star or one blade of the AL 24 propeller uppermost. Only one Proficiency

Badge is to be worn and normally will be that for the highest classification for which

a cadet is qualified.

(4) Bandsmen Badges. These are to be worn in a central position with the

bottom of the badge 75mm from the lower edge of the brassard.

(5) Cadet Hundred Badges. These are to be worn on the left side of the brassard

6mm above the lower edge and 1.2cm from the Marksman’s Badge.

(6) The Marksman’s Badge (RAF or ATC). This is to be worn on the right side

of the brassard 6mm above the lower edge and 1.2 cm from the Cadet Hundred

Badge.


Where the Marksman’s Badge only is worn it is to be positioned centrally

on the brassard 6mm from the lower edge.



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