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Coastal Encounters

Materials: None

Subject: Science

Length: 15 minutes

Location: Outdoors

Objective: To compare the East and West coast waves. To explain the effects of plate tectonics on the coast.

Method: After a short discussion, students will demonstrate wave action.

Background: The East coast of the United States has barrier islands extending from Maine all the way to Texas. The West coast has virtually no barrier islands. This is due to plate tectonics. The United States is on the North American plate which is moving in a Northwesterly direction. The West coast is the leading edge and the East coast is the trailing edge. Barrier islands form on the trailing edge.
The Pacific plate (mainly under the Pacific Ocean) and the North American plate meet on the West coast at what is called a subduction zone. This is where one plate is sliding under the other. Any sediments that are carried to the ocean move across the narrow continental shelf (approximately 20 miles wide) and fall into this area. There is no accumulation and therefore no barrier islands.
On the trailing edge (the East coast) sediments carried to the ocean have a broad plain to accumulate on. New land is being formed at the mid-oceanic ridge as the plate moves and a wide continental shelf is created. The continental shelf off the coast of Georgia is approximately 80 miles wide. Thus, barrier islands have space and sand supply to form.

The wave action is determined in part by the width of the continental shelf. As the waves hit shallow water at the edge of the shelf, friction along the bottom slows them down. High energy waves reach the West coast because of the narrower shelf. This creates great surfing and big breakers out West but few sandy beaches. After moving over 80 miles of gently sloping shelf (a decline of 1-2 feet per mile), the waves on the East coast have lost a lot of energy and are more gentle. There is very little surfing here in Georgia but nice sandy beaches.


- Draw a map of the United States large enough that everyone can gather around. Ask the students to identify the East and West coast, Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and the location of Cumberland Island.

-Draw the edge of the continental shelf as in the drawing.

- Explain the theory of plate tectonics. Point out the West coast as the leading edge and the East coast as the trailing edge. The presence of barrier islands is explained by the northwest motion of the North American plate.

- Plate tectonics also explains wave action. Draw a line perpendicular to the shoreline. Have students line up with their toes on the line. Tell the students that they are going to represent waves. Explain that the continental shelf is approximately 20 miles wide on the West coast. When the waves hit the shelf, they drag the bottom. On signal, the students will run for 10 seconds. At the shout of "SHELF!", the students will shuffle for about 20 feet (1 ft = 1 mile). Once students reach the end point, ask if they are tired. Have them feel their pulse.

- Line them up again on the original line. Explain that now they will represent waves on the East coast. Stand approximately 90 ft from beginning line. On signal students run for 10 seconds. Shout "SHELF!" and they must shuffle to the end point. Have students feel their pulse now. Which distance made them more tired?

- Have students look at the actual waves. Explain that these are "tired" too after traveling 80 miles across the continental shelf. Which waves, East or West coast, will move more sand?

Evaluation: Ask students to explain plate tectonics. Have them contrast the East and West coasts. Explaint the wave energy difference.
Variation: Instead of shuffling, students can run 20 feet and pick up 2 handfuls of sand and deposit along the beginning line. Give them one minute to move the sand. Have the look at the effects. Move to a new location and repeat but now over an area of 80 feet. Give one minute again to move the sand. Compare "erosion" effects.

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