|Mt. Adams: Mazama Glacier Climb Prospectus
PEAK: Mt. Adams ROUTE: Mazama Glacier
CLIMB DATE: September 8-9, 2012 GRADE: B
LEADERS: Mike Wilson, Laura Laney & Andy Peckham
BACKGROUND: Mt. Adams is one of the major volcanoes in the Cascade Range. It is Washington’s second highest mountain at 12,276’. The route involves a 3.5 miles and 2,600' gain hike up to a high base camp, typically near 8,300 feet in elevation. The climb then travels up the south side from the Sunrise Camp – which can be steep in places. We will climb the Mazama glacier to Piker’s Peak at 11,657', then continue onward to the true summit at 12,276'. The views from the summit include Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens, & Mt. Hood. Students should be in excellent physical condition. The objective for the climb is to provide Post members with a thorough introduction to alpine climbing in a safe and educational atmosphere. This is not a "guided" climb, and Post members are expected to actively participate in decision-making, route finding and group management.
Saturday: We will meet at 7:00 a.m. at 19th and Lovejoy and drive to the trailhead at either Cold Springs Campground or Bird Creek Meadows (determined by road conditions). Then hike to our spectacular high camp at Sunrise camp. This climb takes approximately four hours allowing us plenty of time to establish camp, discuss equipment usage and the essentials of glacier travel. Packs will be heavy.
Sunday: We will get up at about 2 a.m., eat a quick breakfast and begin the climb to the summit. The route is long, and involves some technical challenges. We will ascend the Mazama Glacier to Piker’s Peak and then make the final climb to the summit. The descent will follow the south route down and we will traverse back to our camp. We will pack up and head back to the cars. Communication is a key attribute we are trying to instill in Post members. It can be very windy and very cold. Bring good gloves, hat and clothes. Bring and use sunscreen. We will begin the drive home at about 5:00 pm. Our hope is to arrive at 19th and Lovejoy at about 8:00 p.m.
RULES: All climbers must have a signed permission / medical release form. In case of accident, illness or other incapacity, the climber must pay for his or her own medical or evacuation expense, whether authorized or not. No person will be permitted to climb who has taken drugs or antihistamines, which can cause drowsiness during the climb. Alcohol, pets, radios and firearms are prohibited on climbs. All team members must agree to follow the leader's request.
EXPENSES. Helmets, Alpine Harnesses and ice axes will be provided on request to the student leader in advance. Transportation costs are $ 25.00 per person. Climbing Permits are $15.00 per person. (Scholarships are available, please ask)
EQUIPMENT: You will not be permitted to climb if you lack proper equipment. Please follow the climb equipment list. Also please bring a heavy duty large trash bag for sliding during the descent. Bring some dry clothes to leave in the car. Remember the 10 essentials.
Tenting and cooking (melting snow and boiling water) arrangements: will be handled by the student leader.
FOOD: You will need to bring one breakfast: cereal with powdered milk, oatmeal, breakfast bar etc.
Two Lunches: bagels, cheese, candy bar, candy, oranges, sandwiches etc.
One freeze dried dinner (Do NOT bring something that needs “cooking”)
RULES: All climbers must have a signed permission / medical release form. In case of accident, illness or other incapacity, the climber must pay for his or her own medical or evacuation expense, whether authorized or not. No person will be permitted to climb who has taken drugs or antihistamines which can cause drowsiness during the climb. Alcohol, pets, radios and firearms are prohibited on climbs. All team members must agree to follow the leader's request.
Stove and pots (depending on cooking plan that Student Leader arranges)
Bowl, cup, eating utensils
Dry clothes for car ride home
Ski poles (for hiking on snow)
Ice axe (The Post will lend you one if you ask)
Helmet (The Post will lend you one if you ask)
Alpine Harness (The Post will lend you one if you ask)
Headlamp with good batteries
Two full liter water bottles
Mountaineering Boots: either plastic or Synthetic
Crampons: these must be fitted to your boots
2- Prusik cords
2- locking biners
2 pair wool socks
Polypropylene (not cotton) long underwear, top and bottom
Wool or pile pants. No jeans allowed, no cotton pants
Coated nylon or gortex waterproof “rain pants”
Light wool or pile shirt
Pile jacket. It’s best to have a single layer jacket without a nylon outer layer
Down jacket if you have one
Waterproof rain jacket: should be light and breathable, not rubber
Polypropylene glove liners
Wool or synthetic gloves or mittens that are waterproof or have a water proof shell.
Wool or pile hat
Cap with brim
Sunscreen in a small bottle and Lip Balm
Good sunglasses with side shades
Moleskin or other blister prevention
Snack food, power bars
Day pack, with waist belt and large enough to fit everything for summit climb
Small tarp or space blanket