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Haltech F10X wiring in Mazda 3 3 and 0 Engines The Kit for Mazda 3 comes with the following

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Haltech F10X wiring in Mazda 3 2.3 and 2.0 Engines

The Kit for Mazda 3 comes with the following:

Haltech ECU

Main harness with a 6 or 8 pin connector and flying wires

Secondary Harness with a 6 or 8 pin connector, coolant, air, Map, Boost controller and ground connectors.

Tach Driver (Ford Motorsports for the 2005 or older or MSD for 2006 and newer)

Boost controller kit (Optional)

Air temperature sensor (grey)

Coolant Temperature sensor (black)

2 Bar MAP sensor

4 Bosch injectors

4 injector connectors

To help you identify the parts, you can see in the picture above from left to right, the Map sensor, the air temperature sensor that must be placed in the charge pipe and the coolant sensor that goes in the upper heater hose.
In the picture below you can see the Tach driver. This unit is needed to convert the signal from the crank position sensor into a tach signal needed in the Haltech F10X to work properly.

Start by checking that everything is included in the kit and disconnect the battery. Then make the cross cuts in the grommet to bring the wiring thru the firewall. Insert a wire or cable from the outside into the inside of the cockpit. Use the wire to bring the connector and wires thru the engine bay.

In the flying wires, after they are thru the fire wall, use the supplied wire cover in these wires. This is used to avoid any wire to be damaged from vibration against sharp objects.
Then follow the stock wiring along the firewall and tie wrap the Haltech wires to it coming to the stock ECU beside the battery. The wires are pre cut to the correct length.

Install the coolant sensor case or casting in the correct coolant hose according to the instructions. Make sure that the air temperature sensor is bolted to the charge pipe, and finally attach the map sensor to the brake booster vacuum line.

Correct location for the Coolant sensor. Make sure that it is placed in the upper heater hose.

This is the correct location for the air temperature sensor.
Using the MAP sensor as template, drill two 6 mm holes in the top plastic beam as shown in picture. After this is done, just bolt the sensor underneath the beam. Run a vacuum hose with the tee supplied between the Blow off valve and into the intake manifold.

Now connect the 6 or 8 pin connectors together, and plug the connectors to each of the sensors. The black connector is the coolant sensor, the grey is the air temp and the three wire is the MAP sensor connector. The black wire is the ground and should be bolted to a good ground source in the engine block or head. There is another connector with a blue or black two pin connector that is labelled as boost controller solenoid. It is not used unless you have the boost control option. If so, just plug into the solenoid.


Identify the Harness:
Black connectors into 3 pin connector are the injector wires

Orange connector is the MAP sensor

Black with 2 pin is the coolant

Gray with 2 pin is the Air temp

Loop connector is the ground

The 2006 and later models use a different trigger wheel and it needs a different tach driver adapter. The tach driver is what gives the haltech the RPM signal to operate correctly.

The Tach driver used for these models is the MSD 8913 and should be installed as follows:
Find the 12 v power source for the ignition coils. It is the common wire on all coils. Cut this wire before it splits into all coils. Then you will have two ends. Connect the red wire form MSD 8913 into the wire coming from power supply, the red/green into the wire going into the coils, the black one to a good engine ground and the grey wire into the Haltech Green wire.

So please follow the next instructions:

The harness for the 2006 comes with an 8 pin connector and a three pin connector on the other side for the injector harness. Just disconnect the stock injectors and leave them aside. Plug the new injectors to the harness provided. The ONLY wire that goes to the main harness of the car is the grey/red form Haltech into the A2 wire as illustrated in the diagram below. Do not use the other wires for any other connections.

Your flying wires are:

Purple/white: Boost controller (OPTIONAL)

White wire: TPS (Optional)

Gray/shielded: O2 sensor for closed loop (OPTIONAL)

Gray/red for A2 connector (Switched 12V)

Gray/red for boost controller (OPTIONAL)

It is time now to do the flying wires. These are the injector wires, the TPS signal, the RPM signal, the check engine light memory wire, the 12 v source to the tach driver.
Injector wires are:



Light Blue

Green/ Red
TPS is the white wire
RPM signal is the light green wire
12v Source to Tach driver and CEL memory are the two grey/red wires.
To do the wiring correctly, please follow these instructions carefully.
Look for the two connectors to the Main ECU. Look at the wiring diagram and then find the correct wires.
We have designed this diagram to make it easier to find and locate each of the wires needed for the new connection.
Beside the battery, there are two main connectors into the Stock ECU. We have given letters and numbers to each connector, so you can find the right wires easier.
We have called the front connector, the one towards the front and rear connector to the one towards the back of the vehicle.
Most wiring is done in the front connector and only one wire is needed from the rear connector.

The wires shown with the pink lines are the injector wires. These are to be cut and leave disconnected. The wires from haltech must go to the injectors.

The wires shown with the blue are the Tach Driver trigger wires. These are to be tapped into.
The wire shown with the green line is the TPS signal wire. This wire is to be tapped into.
The wire shown with an orange line is the ECU memory wire. This wire is to be cut and run the grey/red wire from Haltech into the ECU. Leave the other end disconnected and taped.
Wire B2 (black/white) is an injector wire

Wire C2 (black /yellow) is another injector wire

Wire D2 (black/blue) is another injector wire

Wire D3 (black/red) is the 4th injector wire

These four wires must be CUT from the main harness. Using the pink butt connectors supplied, join the Haltech injector wires into the wires going to the engine. The ends going into ECU must be left disconnected.
Now look for wire A12 (black/white). This is the TPS signal. Using the blue taps, tap the white wire from Haltech wires into this. Make sure you tap into it.
If your car has a cable operated throttle body (non US version) then tap into A13 as A12 will have no wire in your car.
The Light green wire from the haltech wires must be joint to the green wire of the tach driver.
One of the grey/red wires from haltech must be joint into the red wire of the Tach driver.
The black wire from the tach driver must be hooked to a good ground source.

Find wire A2 (red) in the rear main connector. This is the wire that keeps the memory for the O2 sensors. Cut this wire from main rear ECU connector. Join the other grey/red wire to the wire going into ECU. Isolate very well the other end as it has constant 12V and leave it disconnected .

Now find the trigger sensor wires. Look for wire A9 (white/red) and B9 (brown), tap the black wire from Tach driver into A9 (white /red) and the white one into B9 (brown).
Lastly, look for wire A2 in the rear connector. This wire must be cut. Run one of the grey/red wires from the HALTECH wires into the end leading to ECU. The other end must be left disconnected and taped.

Remove the tape from behind the Tach driver and stick it inside the battery box as shown in picture.

Use the supplied injector connectors to replace the stock ones or just tap into each wire and you can have connectors working, the stock ones and the new ones. Just leave the 4 not used disconnected and use the new ones

With this, we are done for the wiring inside the engine bay.

Lastly, remove the plastic cover underneath the steering column to find the ignition switch wires. Look for the thick green/yellow wire and tap the Haltech black wire with fuses into it. This wire brings 12v to the Haltech, tach driver, boost controller and main ECU.

With all these done correctly, the electrical wiring is finished.

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