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Birding trip to brazil 28th March to 11th April 2009 Brian and Linda Carthy

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28th March to 11th April 2009

Brian and Linda Carthy
Total seen: 269 Total new: 177
A holiday enabling B.C. to reach 3000 birds worldwide was planned for 2009, requiring 95 to get to that milestone. After reading various trip reports it was clear that a visit to the endemic-rich Brazilian Atlantic Rainforest would fit the bill.

The goal should be more than achievable despite inevitable overlaps from previous visits to Costa Rica, Ecuador and Peru.

In the Nigel Wheatley book on South America, he states that the Serra Do Mar region in South-east Brazil supports one of the highest concentrations of unique birds for its size, in the world.
Serra dos Tucanos Lodge, at 400m within the Tres Picos State Park seemed the ideal base for this holiday, and so we booked a 15 day trip.

Mark Sutton had visited the Lodge in 2007, recommended it, and kindly lent me his copy of the Deodata Souza field guide and the Birds of Brazil MP3 Sound Collection by Peter Boesman. We also purchased Andy Foster’s field guide to the birds of Serra Dos Tucanos.

The thought of staying in one place instead of all the traveling done on recent birding trips (e.g. 2000 miles in South Africa 2008) seemed attractive.

The Lodge organizes (optional) Excursions daily to prime areas at various elevations for maximum birding opportunities.

Andy Foster and his wife Cristina run the Lodge with Pete Forrest as the resident bird-guide (living at the Lodge). Pete was warden of Sandwich Bay Bird Observatory for 12 years, but upon visiting Brazil, he decided that he wished to stay there.
We experienced rain on 6 days, mainly in the afternoon.
We were lucky in a way because the Lodge driver left during our first week meaning that Andy had to drive to all the excursions, giving us 2 guides for the price of one! Their combined expertise with the local birds made them a formidable team!
Andy e-mailed just prior to departure offering a Superior room with balcony on the second floor at no extra cost, which turned out to be ideal, as many species could be seen from our room, and Streamcreeper could be heard daily!

Saturday 28th March

Traveling day: 06.40 flight Manchester to Paris arriving 09.10 (local time)

10.15 flight to Rio de Janeiro (5700 m) arriving 18.05 (local time)

Taxi was waiting to whisk us off on the one and a half hour drive up into the mountains away from the scary driving in the huge city of Rio.

Andy and Cristina made us welcome on arrival, showed us the room and then offered us welcome beers.

Sunday 29th March

Spent the day around the Lodge watching the feeders, and walking the

White Trail until rained off. Streamcreeper showed well and we totaled 22 new for the day.
Monday 30th March

During the first few days no other guests were at the Lodge, meaning that we had Pete to ourselves!

We again did the Lodge gardens a.m. and went further afield on the Yellow Trail, finding another 9 new birds After lunch we went to the Theodoro Trail at 1100m with Pete and ended up with 23 new.
Tuesday 31st March

In the morning we went to the lowland Regua Wetland with Pete, gaining a further 20 new birds. Rained off all afternoon.

Wednesday 1st April

No excursions planned for the day, so in the morning we birded the White and Yellow trails, adding 4 more new, and in the afternoon caught a taxi to the

Cedae Trail where we added just one more before torrential rain set in, but also saw Damselflies no more robust than our native ones but with a 6 inch long abdomen!
Thursday2nd April

All day visit to the Bamboo Trail rising to 1450m with Pete was curtailed from 3.30pm by further heavy rain. We were soaked but added a further 18.

Friday 3rd April

During the morning we did the Lodge Water Box Trail and White and Yellow Trails. We had by now covered every part of the Lodge Trails. After lunch a trip up to the Theodoro was scheduled but rain had again started. Pete went off with Bart (a Texan) but we cried off due to the weather.

But by the time Andy got back from dropping them off the sun was shining – so he offered to take us up and guide us. We saw quality birds and added a further 6 for the day.

Saturday 4th April

Morning was spent on the Macae de Cima Trail at with Andy and Pete.

Afternoon we went back to the Cedae Trail with Pete (it was quiet).

A further 11 new birds were added, including Rufous-capped Spinetail for my 3000th!

Sunday 5th April

Morning was spent on the Portao Azul Trail with Andy and Pete.

Afternoon we birded around the Lodge Bench and Pool areas, not venturing too far as it was very hot and humid. A further 16 added.
Monday 6th April

Morning (return) visit to the Bamboo trail with Pete (not as productive as the first visit with only 3 new birds added).

Rain p.m. but we were able to bird from the veranda and the pool where there is a covered area.
Tuesday 7th April

High Altitude upper (up to 2000m) and lower sections all-day excursion with Andy and Pete.

One of the best days of the entire holiday in ideal weather and 23 new high quality birds added on our 11th day!

This excursion is highly weather dependant at any time of year – Andy planned it well postponing it due to weather the previous week. All we suffered was a shower on the lower section, and we felt relief that we didn’t miss out on such an important excursion. Most of the previous week it was not even visible from the road below due to low cloud, and we spoke to a friend who went up last December and saw nothing due to low cloud / fog.

Wednesday 8th April

Serra dos Orgaos National Park (Mountain of Organs – several huge granite rocks which supposedly look like organ pipes) all day excursion with Andy and Pete (lower) and Pete (upper).

Rain from lunchtime. 6 new birds added.
Thursday 9th April

3-toed Jacamar all-day excursion with Andy and Pete.

Another of the best days of the entire holiday in ideal weather.

High quality birds with 2 great guides and 19 new added on the 13th day!

This excursion is also treated as a bird race and attempts are made to beat the record for most species. The current record is 114. Our day total was 99 – not bad! (could have been 100 but Andy wouldn’t let us count Feral Pigeon!)
Friday 10th April

A return visit a.m. to Macae de Cima with Andy and Pete added a couple more new species, and we did the Lodge grounds again in the afternoon.

Saturday 11th April

After breakfast we said goodbye to Andy and Pete and the Danish couple

Nils and Elizabet, then went up to the Bench overlooking the Lodge gardens, getting Black-throated Grosbeak. We had a short walk along the trails and later

had Crescent-chested Puffbird above the pool. Then all too soon 11.00 came round and we said goodbye to Cristina and departed in the taxi back down to Rio. Many waterbirds were seen en-route, as we arranged for the taxi driver to go as slow as possible. South American Tern was new, adding 3 more on the last day.

We then checked the baggage in and came back out of the airport to bird in the surrounding areas, including many Frigatebirds streaming over.

Flight details: Rio depart 16.20

Sunday 12th April
Paris arrive 07.55

Paris depart 13.20 (5+ hours wait!!)

Manchester Arrive 13.50 local time.

BROWN TINAMOU (Crypturellus obsoletus)

Heard only on the Bamboo Trail and Macae de Cima.

LEAST GREBE (Tachybaptus dominicus)

Small numbers seen at the Regua Wetland.

PIED-BILLED GREBE (Podilymbus podiceps)

As above, seen only on the Wetland excursion.

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)

Small numbers seen on the final day from the airport taxi as we passed lagoons outside Rio de Janeiro.


In the region of 200 seen from the lagoons mentioned above, and many passing over the raised causeway in Rio and even from outside the airport (parties of up to 30) where we spent 2 hours watching rather than sitting in a boring lounge.

COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi)

One noted on the Rio lagoons.


Noted on 5 dates, usually near water but one unusually in the mountains was possibly migrating.

LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)

A couple seen on the Rio lagoons.

SNOWY EGRET (E. thula)

The only records were several from the Rio lagoons.

CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)

Seen on 4 dates.

WHITE-FACED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna viduata)

A flock seen at the Regua Wetlands.

BRAZILIAN TEAL (Amazonetta brasiliensis)

10 noted at Regua. Others seen on roadside pools / rivers.

BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)

Common. Soaring flocks seen most days.

Seen on the airport roof and lamp-posts etc
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)

Common, but smaller numbers than the above.

GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanencis)

Great views of one (scoped) over the Portao Azul trail.

CRANE HAWK (Geranospiza caerulescens)

One seen sitting in a tree from the High Altitude Lower section near where we saw Seriema.

SAVANNA HAWK (B. meridionalis)

5 singles were noted (all sitting / scoped) from the 3 -Toed Jacamar excursion.

ROADSIDE HAWK (Buteo magnirostris)

Fairly common noted on 6 days, one viewed from above showed its very handsome upper-parts.

WHITE-RUMPED HAWK (B. leucorrhous)

2 were seen from the High Altitude Higher section.

First one was seen in flight, but a second one which was viewed from above down below a viewpoint was the first one Andy and Pete had ever seen perched.
WHITE-TAILED HAWK (B. albicaudatus)

Noted on the High Altitude, Serra Dos Orgaos and Jacamar excursions.

BLACK AND WHITE HAWK-EAGLE (Spizastur melanoleucus)

One was seen soaring with a Black Vulture from the Giant Antshrike corner at Macae de Cima.

SOUTHERN CARACARA (Caracara plancus)

Fairly common, noted on 5 dates.

YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima)

As above.

LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans)

One scoped across the valley at the high point of the Regua Wetlands.

BARRED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur ruficollis)

One seen by L.C. and Pete on the Bamboo Trail.

APLOMADO FALCON (F. femoralis)

2 flew by the roadside tree which we were scoping to see White Woodpeckers.

One chased a Woodpecker and then landed in their tree, making it possible to pan from White Woodpecker to Aplomado!
DUSKY-LEGGED GUAN (Penelope obscura)

First one was scoped on the Macae de Cima Trail, a further 10 were seen the following day at Portao Azul on the ground and in a tree near a farm, and one sat very close above the trail at Serra dos Orgaos.


One heard calling very loud from the dining area at breakfast time baffled all present until L.C. spotted it walking out from under the feeders to the top end of the water, it went very slowly up the slope back into the forest after causing pandemonium among the breakfast people!

2 were seen well on the Jacamar Excursion as we parked for lunch at a trail junction Also heard elsewhere.
ASH-THROATED CRAKE (Porzana albicollis)

At Regua Wetland, 2 seen by L.C. crossing an open path through dense grass, then after I-Pod play, another crossed in the same area.

2 also on the Jacamar Excursion. One showed very well, just sitting there calling back to the I-pod.
BLACKISH RAIL (Pardirallus nigricans)

2 were seen on the Jacamar Excursion at our initial stop along a main road overlooking rough fields.

PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinica)

Several at the Regua Wetlands.

COMMON MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus)

As Above.

RED-LEGGED SERIEMA (Cariama cristata)

2 spotted by L.C. at the top end of the High Altitude Lower Section (very close) were the only ones encountered - strutting around like Secretarybirds.

WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana)

Several on the Regua Wetland Excursion, also seen on various roadside pools.

SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)

Commonly seen on roadside fields.


KELP GULL (Larus dominicanus)

Several (adults and juvs) seen on our final day outside Rio.

SOUTH AMERICAN TERN (S. hirundinacea)

Several seen on the final day from the airport taxi as we slowly passed lagoons outside Rio de Janeiro.


The commonest Pigeon sp. seen regularly.

PALE-VENTED PIGEON (P. cayennensis)

Noted on a couple of days.


One noted at Macae de Cima.

RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (C. talpacoti)

Fairly common in small numbers, including birds seen around the airport.

GRAY-FRONTED DOVE (L. rufaxilla)

Noted on a couple of days.

BLUE-WINGED MACAW (Primolius maracana)

Pete heard their calls and 3 flew gracefully over calling on the Jacamar Excursion.

WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Aratinga leucophthalmus)

Noted on the High Altitude and Jacamar Excursions. Flocks went over calling.

MAROON-BELLIED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura frontalis)

Commonly seen on the Lodge feeding station tables / hanging bananas daily.

BLUE-WINGED PARROTLET (Forpus xanthopterygius)

2 present in the Lodge Garden on our first day, and 5 seen on the Jacamar Excursion.

PLAIN PARAKEET (Brotogeris tirica)

Common on the Lodge Gardens at the feeders or in surrounding trees.

PILEATED (Red-capped) PARROT (Pionositta pileata)

Fly-overs on the Theodoro Trail had distinctive calls and square tails.

SCALY-HEADED PARROT (Pionus maximiliani)

Groups seen flying over start of the Macae de Cima Trail early morning were seen to be much larger than Parrakeets, and had blunt tails.


An unidentified bird of one of these sp. was seen by L.C. flying low over a trail at Regua Wetland. Unfortunately no breast coloration or other detail could be made out from her brief view.

We are both familiar with Yellow-billed and Black-billed Cuckoo which are very similar.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)

Fairly common, singles seen on 7 days.


Common at the Wetland. Also recorded on the Serra dos Orgaos and Jacamar outings.

GUIRA CUCKOO (Guira guira)

Recorded on 5 days, sometimes in small groups.

TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba)

2 were photographed roosting in trees near the parking area at Regua Wetland.

BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia)

2 were seen by their nest burrow on the High Altitude Lower Section.

WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Stretoprocne zonaris)

Recorded on four dates, sometimes over mountain ridges, and parties flying through the Lodge grounds late afternonn.

BISCUTATE SWIFT (S. biscutata)

3 were watched for 10 minutes circling very low over the Lodge grounds one late afternoon.

Unlike White-collared Swifts they didn’t just go straight through but lingered allowing identification.
GREY-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura cinereiventris)

c15 went to roost at dusk in a chimney on the Lodge roof.


3 flying low over the High Altitude Lower section were very vocal.

SAW-BILLED HERMIT (Ramphodon naevius)

Seen daily at the Lodge feeders. One flew into the dining room and took some time to escape, after Andy opened more sliding doors. Very handsome Hummer.

SCALE-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis eurynome)

Recorded on 5 dates, from Theodoro and other trails.


Seen on 3 dates around the Lodge.

SOMBRE HUMMINGBIRD (Campylopterus cirrhochloris)

The commonest and most aggressive Hummer around the Lodge, chasing away other species from the feeders.


Singles seen most days at the Lodge feeders.

BLACK JACOBIN (Florisuga fuscus)

Very common and seen daily at the Lodge feeders.

PLOVERCREST (Stephanoxis lalandi)

A male was seen briefly at the far end of the Bamboo Trail as we took lunch there, 6 were seen at a Plovercrest lek where many were calling on the

Macae de Cima Trail, also noted on the High Altitude trip.
GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon aureoventris)

2 seen on the Jacamar Excursion were noted to have red bills.

VIOLET-CAPPED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania glaucopis)

Common in the Lodge grounds, seen daily at the feeders.

WHITE-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Leucochloris albicollis)

Singles seen on the Theodoro, High Altitude and Macae de Cima Trails.

VERSICOLORED EMERALD (Agyrtria versicolor)

2 seen on the High Altitude higher section.

BRAZILIAN RUBY (Clytolaema rubricauda)

5 seen on the High Altitude higher section were noted as being large and showing much rufous colouration.

AMETHYST WOODSTAR (Calliphlox amethystine)

One of this tiny species was seen along the Portao Azul Trail.


We found one on the Lodge Yellow Trail perched in the gap where a tree had fallen and another was on the Bamboo Trail.

SURUCUA TROGON (T. surrucura)

One was pointed out by Pete with his laser pen at the start of the Theodoro Trail.

We found one on the Lodge Yellow Trail, also noted on the Bamboo Trail, at Serra dos Orgaos N.P. and Macae de Cima as well as heard elsewhere.

The most frequently seen Trogon.

RINGED KINGFISHER (Ceryle torquata)

One scoped down by a house on the jacamar Excursion.


One noted at Regua Wetland.

THREE-TOED JACAMAR (Jacamaralcyon tridactyla)

3 were seen at a known site perched together on dead branches above a sandy trackside bank where their nest hole (like Sand Martin’s) was seen.

The area used to be forest, but when it was cleared the birds stayed because the nest holes were still available.
WHITE-EARED PUFFBIRD (Nystalus chacuru)

5 were seen on telegraph wires and on a tree by a farm (which was growing Aubergines) on the Jacamar excursion.


Despite being told of its presence in the Lodge gardens, we held out little hope of seeing this species (as it had been ‘’taped out’’ and would no longer respond). Pete also told us that it ranged anywhere around the Lodge including up the entrance road. It was therefore quite a delight and surprise to find (and photograph it) sitting just above the swimming pool quietly on a branch. It stayed for a good while allowing photos to be taken and then disappeared quietly back into the forest.

A bonus for our last morning.
SAFFRON TOUCANET (Baillonius bailloni)

3 were seen together on the TheodoroTrail after Andy had heard them and then used his I-pod to call them in. When they flew their bright orange rump stood out.

It was particularly fortunate that we saw these, having opted out of visiting the trail with Pete on a scheduled excursion as it was pouring down when they left (and having had a good soaking for the previous 2 afternoons).

Meanwhile it dried up and the sun came out, so when Andy got back after dropping them off, he suggested that we go up with him as guide.

He also got us Brazilian Antthrush.

We did not see Saffron Toucanet elsewhere.

SPOT-BILLED TOUCANET (Selenidera maculirostris)

A male and female seen regularly at the Lodge feeders.

Noted also on the trails.

CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Rhamphastos vitellinus)

One scoped from the forest trail at Regua Wetland was seen to have vivid orange underparts and is a possible split.

L.C. also saw one from the Lodge swimming pool area.
WHITE-BARRED PICULET (Picumnus cirratus)

3 together were the first seen on the Lodge Yellow Trail, also seen later the same day on the Theodoro Trail and several times elsewhere on a total of 5 days, including from the veranda.

WHITE WOODPECKER (Melanerpes candidus)

5 together were spotted by our driver along the rough track to Regua Wetland in a tree where we scoped them. Aplomado Flacons came to the same tree.

Seen also on the Jacamar Excursion.

Noted on the Theodoro, Macae de Cima, and Jacamar Excursions.


A single only seen at Serra dos Orgaos N.P. was the red-throated form

(as portrayed in Andy’s guide). They are yellow-throated elsewhere.

Possible split.


One feeding a fencepost very close along the track leading to the Bamboo Trail made me which I had lugged my camera out with us!

Another was seen on the Macae de Cima Trail.
CAMPO FLICKER (C. campestris)

On the Macae de Cima Trail, many were seen together around a farm on the ground and in trees. Much white up their backs in flight. Also noted from the

High Altitude and Jacamar Excursons.

Male and female seen on a total of 6 days on the Lodge feeders, usually at breakfast time.

A very spectacular Woodpecker.
TAIL-BANDED HORNERO (Furnarius figulus)

One at the Regua Wetland was seen to be vivid orange.

Also noted near water on the Jacamar Excursion. A wetland species.

Noted on the Bamboo Trail (hopping up the road at the entrance where many moths were around to eat) and on the Jacamar Excursion.

CHICLI (Spix’s) SPINETAIL (Synallaxis spixi)

One appeared behind us on the broad entrance road to the Theodoro Trail whilst Andy used his I-pod to bring out a Red-eyed Thornbird.

Also noted at Portao Azul.

3000 UP!

The 95th tick of the trip, putting B.C. on 3000 world-list.

Seen at Macae de Cima.

It was dangerously near being a female Uniform Finch which Pete and Andy heard (what a bird that would have been for such a milestone!) but as I threatened to stay in the van until it had gone it obligingly disappeared.

Seen also at various other trails from then onwards.

One only seen on the High Altitude Higher section.

PALLID SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca pallida)

Seen first at Portao Azul, also on the High Altitude Trail

YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomea)

One around the lagoons at Regua Wetland had lost its tail!

The yellow chin is very difficult to see. Heard first by Pete.
COMMON THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus rufifrons)

2 on fenceposts were seen at the first stop along a wide road on the

Jacamar Excursion. A few others seen later that day.
RED-EYED THORNBIRD (P. erythrophthalmus)

One was successfully lured out of cover by Andy’s I-pod along the entrance road to the Theodoro Trail.

Also seen at Macae de Cima and Portao Azul.
FIREWOOD GATHERER (Anumbius annumbi)

Along the road during the Jacamar Excursion, we stopped opposite a tree which contained 2 huge impressive stick nests (far too big for the birds) which were by now disused (Pete had seen birds there 2 weeks previously but the young had fledged)

We continued on disappointed, but not much further on stopped to view a

White-rumped Monjita, and Pete heard Firewood Gatherer calling and used his

I-pod and 2 obligingly appeared on top of a dead tree where we scoped them and took pictures.


Noted on the Lodge Trails and on 5 other days on various trails.

SHARP-BILLED TREEHUNTER (Heliobletus contaminatus)

3 along the Bamboo trail were very noisy, also noted at Macae de Cima.

WHITE-BROWED FOLIAGE GLEANER (Anabacerthia amaurotis)

Only seen on the wide track leading to the Bamboo Trail with Pete and Andy in a garden down below the track. Many large Moths were seen in this area and consequently a lot of birds were present.

BUFF-BROWED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla rufosupercileatus)

One located at the very start of the Theodoro Trail and also several other trails thereafter.

PALE-BROWED TREEHUNTER (Cichlocolaptes leucophrus)

Only one seen, at Serra dos Orgaos N.P. lower section along the road past lawns and gardens where we located a flock of Tanagers / Furnalids / Woodpeckers etc

It was very streaked with a broad supercillium.

Seen on Bamboo Trail and 4 other Excursions.


First seen along the Bamboo Trail, noted to be similar in appearance to Peruvian Recurvebill (without the uptilted bill!).

Seen also at Macae de Cima and Portao Azul.
WHITE-EYED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus leucophthalmus)

Called in by B.C. along the Lodge Water Box Trail.

It showed very well and sang back to the recording, but we were baffled as to why it showed no white eye, until Andy explained that it was a juv.

First one fed very openly on the Lodge Yellow Trail.

Heard on the Lodge trails regularly and seen on the Bamboo Trail.

Seen or heard daily at the Lodge from the river bridge, easily heard from our room. Heard from various other trails, but no effort was put in to seeing them in view of the resident pair at the Lodge.

THRUSH-LIKE WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla turdina)

One seen well on the Lodge Yellow Trail, and one at Serra dos Orgaos N.P.

OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus)

Seen daily on the Lodge Trails and most other trails.

The commonest Woodcreeper.
WHITE-THROATED WOODCREEPER (Xiphocolaptes albicollis)

First one on the entrance road to the Bamboo Trail was on the side of a house leading to it being nicknamed the Wallcreeper.

Large size makes it unmistakable.

Seen also at Potao Azul and Macae de Cima.

LESSER WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus fuscus)

Seen down the road at Serra dos Orgaos N.P. where we located a flock.

Despite its name, Olivaceous is the smallest Woodcreeper.

Also noted at Macae de Cima.


Noted on the Lodge Yellow Trail also at Portao Azul and Macae de Cima.

BLACK-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (Campylorhamphus falcularius)

First seen at the start of the Portao Azul Trail in bamboo after Andy had to turf us out of the van due to wet steep conditions. It did us a favour as we soon located a large mixed flock which kept us busy for half an hour.

This bird showed very well at eye level.

Another was located by B.C. on the Jacamar excursion where we stopped for lunch. An addition for the Jacamar Excursion list – not seen on it previously.

SPOT-BACKED ANTSHRIKE (Hypoedaleus guttatus)

Seen only just before the river on the Cedae Trail (B.C. / L.C. only)

It was making a churring call and did not respond to the recording until we had moved on when we could hear it round the corner.
GIANT ANTSHRIKE (Batara cinerea)

First seen on the Macae de Cima Trail at the open corner where a large flock of Brassy-breasted Tanagers were present.

Brought slowly out of cover by I-pod and spotted initially by L.C. it showed very well (male) Huge!

Heard elsewhere, and seen again on the High Altitude Excursion.


Heard only on the High Altitude.

CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus palliates)

One seen very well on the lower part of the forest trail at Regua Wetland.


Brought out by I-pod on a corner at a site known to Pete on the same trail as above but much higher up. Seen to be similar to Variable Antshrike.

VARIABLE ANTSHRIKE (T. caerulescens)

First seen on the Theodoro Trail, brought out by Pete with his I-pod. Excellent views, very grey. Also seen on several other trails. The most common Antshrike, seen on a total of 5 days.


Male and female called out at roadside at a known site on the way back from the Jacamar Excursion. Handsome!

SPOT-BREASTED ANTVIREO (Dysithamnus stictothorax)

2 called out by B.C. and responded on the Lodge Yellow Trail. Many heard.

Seen again on the Cedae Trail.
PLAIN ANTVIREO (D. mentalis)

Common. Seen daily. In the Lodge grounds and trails etc


Noted on the Bamboo Trail.

We saw an identical bird on the Lodge Yellow Trail but were not allowed to count it as the altitude was wrong (??)
STAR-THROATED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula gularis)

4 seen on the Theodoro Trail, also at Macae de Cima and Serra dos Orgaos N.P. upper section where one gave very close views in the drizzle. Superb throat!

WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (M. axillaries luctuosa)

A bird of the race Luctuosa was seen at the Regua Wetland forest trail.

It is a potential split.
FERRUGINOUS ANTBIRD (Drymophila ferruginea)

Seen only at a known site on the entrance track to Portao Azul which we called at on the way back from the Jacamar excursion in order to increase our day list.

Although it is supposed to be the commonest of its group, it was the last one we saw.

BERTONIS ANTBIRD (D. rubricollis)

On the Bamboo Trail this bird was very responsive to playback.

Colours much more subtle than the field guide.

One seen on the High Altitude Upper section.

Lots of rufous – handsome.

As with Bertoni’s this bird was very responsive to playback on the Bamboo Trail, giving very close views (male and female). Once it began calling back it wouldn’t stop even after we had moved on some way.


Just one seen (a female) on the High Altitude Lower section.

SCALED ANTBIRD (D. squamata)

We found pairs on the Lodge Yellow Trail on 3 days. Superbly patterned, with the female brown / white compared to the black / white male.

Great long black & white barred tail.
STREAK-CAPPED ANTWREN (Terenura maculata)

Seen on the Lodge White Trail high in the canopy and the Cedae Trail.

WHITE-SHOULDERED FIRE-EYE (Pyriglena leucoptera)

Male and female seen on the Bamboo Trail (male’s white flecking on the wings seen well). Also noted at Macae de Cima and Serra dos Orgaos N.P. upper section (female).

WHITE-BIBBED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza loricata)

Very handsome Antbird with much more subtle colours than the field guide (as is the case with all red / rufous types). One was called out from below the narrow track in the Serra dos Orgaos N.P. upper section. Very long close views.

It carried on calling long after we had moved on.

2 were painstakingly called out by a very patient Andy at the start of the Theodoro Trail. He told us not to move, start pointing (or breathe!) when they came into view as he had experience of them coming very close at this known site. He was not wrong! Before they came into view he pointed out that they were coming towards us and making a different call which they do whilst walking.

They eventually both went past nice and slowly and showed wonderfully well.

Heard also along the Bamboo Trail on both visits.


Called out B.C. / L.C. on the Lodge White Trail at 7.15am just after breakfast approx. 100yds from the top of the second steps with the blue rope, on the flat section. We were testing the Dictaphone, taping a Blue Manakin when the Antthrush began calling nearby. We immediately recognized its call as we had been playing it the day before with no response. A quick change over to Antthrush playback brought it creeping up the steep slope below in dense cover and we figured that if it carried on up the slope it would come out on the path

To our delight it did! It strutted along nearby in full view with its tail up resembling a Moorhen with its back downcurved.

Colors much subtler than the Guide Only 7.15am but we felt like going for a celebration! One of the best birds of the trip!

SUCH’S ANTTHRUSH (C. meruloides)

Heard only on the Macae de Cima Trail.


Heard distantly on the Theodoro and Bamboo Trails

RUFOUS GNATEATER (Conopophaga lineate)

Found our own birds on the Lodge Trails and seen on various other Trails on the Excursions.


Males and females fairly common on the Lodge Yellow Trail, resembling tiny Antpittas. Beautifully coloured.

SPOTTED BAMBOOWREN (Psilorhamphus gutattus)

One on the Macae de Cima Trail was very slow to respond to playback. It actually only started calling once we had given up and walked off!

It was only the second time that both Pete and Andy had seen it and they said it was similarly reluctant to show then.

We returned to the same site a few days later with a Danish couple but it could not be pinned down.


Male and female seen on the Bamboo Trail. They were on the forest floor and were called up onto the path to give superb views. Very handsome!


One seen very close on the High Altitude upper section was heard by Pete and Andy who used I-pod to bring it to the edge of the track from where it showed very well. Once it had started calling back (a loud ticking) it carried on long after we had left it and could still be heard way up the track!


First one was picked up distantly by Pete right at the end of the Bamboo Trail where we stopped for lunch. We had briefly seen a male Plovercrest and risked the 2 resident dogs attention trying to relocate it (unsuccessfully) when Pete heard the Cotinga calling. Seen to be large, Collared Dove size.

Several more were seen and heard on the High Altitude upper section, with one bird sitting on top of a telegraph pole nearby calling (a strange high-pitched mourning descending whistle). Superb!

Male and female located at a site known to Andy and Pete – a dead tree which stuck up high above the canopy on the High Altitude upper section where the Cotingas appeared after at least half an hour’s playback. Much excitement when the first one (female) appeared, with the 2 guides running for their scopes!

The male then came and joined her on the same branches.

Probably the rarest / hardest bird of the trip.

HOODED BERRYEATER (Carpornis cucullatus)

After frustratingly hearing them (sometimes quite close) on the Bamboo Trail – both visits, we were resigned to not seeing this.

Later in the trip on the Serra dos Orgaos N.P. upper section Pete said that they were difficult there, but he tried playback of their distinctive call getting no response initially. We gave up and continued along the trail, and further on one called very close from above the track. It flew down the trail without showing (still calling) then above and below the track again where it showed ridiculously well for 10 minutes! Beautifully coloured above and below and Mistle Thrush sized (or bigger). We had obviously rattled his cage.

Made up for all the heards on the Bamboo Trail!

BARE-THROATED BELLBIRD (Procnias nudicollis)

One only located distantly by Andy from a viewpoint along the Macae de Cima trail. Scoped, with its throat visible whilst perched and superb flight views too.


A male and female were watched very closely along the flat lower section of the forest trail at Regua Wetland. Great birds.

BLUE MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia caudata)

Common on the Lodge Trails. Easy to locate by their loud calling which is very varied (Pete said it is the Great Tit of their forests due to its wide variety of calls)

Seen also on many of the excursions.
PIN-TAILED MANAKIN (Ilicura militaris)

A female or immature male was seen and was calling on a corner where we parked along the Macae de Cima Trail, and a full male flew across the trail at Portao Azul, showing its colours.

SERRA DO MAR TYRANT- MANAKIN (Neopelma chrysolophum)

2 called out on the High Altitude upper section – plain but rare.

Crown-stripe seen.

One noted on the Jacamar excursion.

YELLOW TYRANNULET (Capsiempis flaveola)

A group fed closely above the track along the Bamboo Trail, and also noted on the Jacamar Excursion.

YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster)

Seen at the Regua Wetland and on the Jacamar Excursion.


Seen only on the High Altitude Upper section.


Noted in gardens on the way up the entrance road to the Bamboo Trail in trees around the houses.

OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleaginous)

One in a small bush in the car park at Serra do Orgaos N.P. lower section.


First seen at Regua Wetland and also on the Lodge Yellow Trail.

SEPIA-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon amaurocephalus)

Heard a couple of times on other trails and one seen at Serra dos Orgaos N.P.


One only seen with Pete on the Theodoro Trail.


3 seen on the High Altitude Trail higher section were seen to have prominent white eye-rings.

On the same section we saw:

Serra do Mar Tyrannulet

Serra do Mar Tapaculo

Serra do Mar Tyrant Manakin!

Serra do Mar means Mountains by the Sea.


First seen on the Theodoro Trail with Andy and subsequently heard or seen on 6 more days.

PLANALTO TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias fasciatus)

Just one sighting – on the Higher Altitude – Lower section.

GREY-CAPPED TYRANNULET (P. griseocapillus)

Single sighting on the Bamboo rail.

EARED PYGMY-TYRANT (Myiornis auricularis)

2 seen along the far end of the Macae de Cima trail were noted to sound like a dripping tap.


Heard but not seen many times on the Bamboo Trail, but great views obtained on the Macae de Cima Trail.


Only one sighting (B.C. / L.C.) on the Lodge Yellow Trail.

HANGNEST TODY-TYRANT (H. nidipendulus)

Single sighting on the Portao Azul excursion.

OCHRE-FACED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum plumbeiceps)

Heard frequently giving a raspberry – like rasping call and seen on the

Portao Azul Trail and Theodoro.

2 seen at the Regua Wetland were noted to be like Common Tody Fly but with a yellow forehead. Seen on 5 other days including on the Lodge Trails on the final morning in the garden.

YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias sulphurescens)

2 seen on the Cedae Trail were noted as having a large v-shaped bill from below.

Seen on 2 other days as well.

Only one sighting at the Regua Wetland.

WHITE-THROATED SPADEBILL (Platyrinchus mystaceus)

Seen on a total of 9 nine days including regularly on the Lodge Trails.

Great little bird!
BRAN-COLORED FLYCATCHER (Myiophobus fasciatus)

A single seen on the Jacamar Excursion.

WHISKERED FLYCATCHER (Myiobius barbatus)

Seen on both visits to the Bamboo Trail and the Jacamar Excursion.

Possible seen by B.C. / L.C. on the Lodge Trails.
CLIFF FLYCATCHER (Hirundinea ferruginea)

Seen only sitting on wires along the road (where it was not possible to stop) above the Lodge. Noted as being a chunky maroon-coloured Flycatcher.

EULER'S FLYCATCHER (Lathrotriccus euleri)

One (B.C. / L.C.) on the Lodge White trail was very active.

Seen again on the Bamboo Trail.
TROPICAL PEWEE (Contopus cinereus)

One was in a mixed flock on the Portao Azul Trail and one noted at Macae de Cima.


One sitting on the roof of a farm building caused us to stop along the road during the Jacamar Excursion and enabled Pete to hear Firewood Gatherer.

2 new birds for the price of one!
BLUE-BILLED BLACK-TYRANT (Knipolegus cyanirostris)

2 were scoped on the High Altitude higher section on the corner where we stopped and tried to bring in Grey-winged Cotinga.


One on the High Altitude Lower section on fence posts was noted to have white wing-flashes in flight.


One on the High Altitude Lower section was said to be out of its normal elevation range.

All three Black Tyrants seen in one day!

MASKED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola nengeta)

Commonly seen in the Lodge grounds, usually near the pool or on the lawns, and noted elsewhere.

WHITE-HEADED MARSH-TYRANT (Arundinicola leucocephala)

A pair seen only at the Regua Wetland.

STREAMER-TAILED TYRANT (Gubernetes yetapa)

5+ seen on the Jacamar Excursion.

LONG-TAILED TYRANT (Colonia colonus)

Seen regularly in the Lodge grounds (including from our balcony) and seen on a total of 6 days.

CATTLE TYRANT (Machetornis rixosus)

3 noted on the Jacamar Excursion.

SHEAR-TAILED GRAY-TYRANT (Muscipipra vetula)

At Portao Azul LC saw one in the large mixed flock after Andy’s van could go no further. Seen again on the High Altitude Trail Upper section, and great views on the Macae de Cima Trail second visit.


First one sat very close (Bart took a picture with a compact digital) and was seen to be stunning and very large.

Seen again on a couple of days in the Lodge gardens.

One only seen on the Regua Wetland trip.

GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)

Common, seen daily in all areas. Regular at the Lodge feeding tables.

BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarhyncus pitangua)

One noted at the Wetland.

RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis)

One on the Bamboo Trail and again on the Jacamar Excursion.


Seen commonly in the Lodge gardens.

STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculates)

Noted only on the Bamboo Trail second visit.

TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)

Common. Regular in the Lodge gardens.

GREENISH SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis virescens)

First seen on the Bamboo Trail was noted to be handsome and subtly coloured.

Excellent views later in the week at the Macae de Cima Trail.
CHESTNUT-CROWNED BECARD (Pachyramphus castaneus)

First seen at Portao Azul, and 4 in the Lodge gardens by the pool later on the same day. Seen daily around the gardens from then on.


Seen first at Portao Azul, but better views were obtained on the Jacamar Excursion.

WHITE-WINGED BECARD (P. polychopterus)

Heard elsewhere, but first seen at Regua Wetland, and seen again on the High Altitude Trip.

SHARPBILL (Oxyruncus cristatus)

Just one was located in a mixed flock down the road in Serra dos Orgaos N.P. lower section. Said by Andy and Pete to be a bonus bird.


Seen over the Lodge and on the Jacamar Excursion.

BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)

Common over the Lodge and pretty much everywhere.


Noted on 3 days. Scoped-up (sitting) by Andy at Porto Azul, but no one could be bothered to look. He questioned why he makes the effort!

BLACK-CAPPED DONACOBIUS (Donacobius atricapilla)

Seen in wetland areas such as Regua and on the Jacamar Excursion.

MOUSTACHED WREN (Thryothorus genibarbis)

One noted at Regua Wetland.

LONG-BILLED WREN (T. longirostris)

One seen along the forest trail at Regua was brought out by Pete’s I-pod and seen to be very long-billed. Superb!

HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon)

Very common. A noisy bird around the Lodge daily.


Seen distantly on the High Altitude Lower section where we had Seriema and seen very well on the Jacamar Excursion at the first stop on a main road.

YELLOW-LEGGED THRUSH (Platycichla flavipes)

Seen only by L.C. on the narrow dense footpath leading to the river crossing on the Bamboo Trail.

RUFOUS-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus rufiventris)

Commonly seen at the Lodge feeding station. The most numerous thrush seen.


Seen daily at the Lodge feeders, but only one pair present.

CREAMY-BELLIED THRUSH (T. amaurochalinus)

Just one imm. / female without the yellow bill was seen on the High Altitude Lower section in the rain. Pete said there was one around near his house in the Lodge but elusive.


A party of 5 up in the canopy on the Bamboo Trail contained immatures.

They were difficult to see.
COMMON WAXBILL (Estrilda astrild)

6+ seen on the Jacamar Excursion in fields (males and females).

RED-EYED VIREO (Vireo olivaceus)

One seen on the Lodge Yellow Trail (B.C. / L.C.) and another in gardens on the way up to the Bamboo Trail.

RUFOUS-CROWNED GREENLET (Hylophilus poicilotis)

One noted on the Theodoro Trail and also on the High Altitude and Macae de Cima Trails.

RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPER SHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis)

Seen regularly (on 6 days) in our second week (only heard in the first week)

GOLDEN-CROWNED WARBLER (Basileuterus culicivorus)

Seen on a total of 8 days. Quite common.

WHITE-RIMMED WARBLER (B. leucoblepharus)

First seen and heard on the way up to the Bamboo Trail along the road and heard more than seen on various other trails.

It was noted as sounding like a Solitaire with a beautiful high pitched whistling.
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)

Seen every day at the Lodge usually on Hummingbird feeders but also on tables.

CHESTNUT-VENTED CONEBILL (Conirostrum speciosum)

Several were in mixed Tanager flocks (containing many Swallow and

Yellow-backed Tanagers) at the Regua Wetland.
CINNAMON TANAGER (Schistochlamys ruficapillus)

One only seen distantly on the High Altitude Lower section at the Seriema site.

MAGPIE TANAGER (Cissopis leveriana)

At least 3 were seen on the Jacamar Excursion from the roadside where we saw Savanna Hawk sitting.

CHESTNUT-HEADED TANAGER (Pyrrhocoma ruficeps)

A male and female showed well at eye level after Andy called them out of a flock on the High Altitude lower section.

RUFOUS-HEADED TANAGER (Hemithraupis ruficapilla)

One found by B.C. on the Jacamar Excursion near where we took lunch

on a corner of forest which had a mixed flock and was very busy.

Another was seen the next day on the Macae de Cima Trail.


Several in a mixed flock containing many Tanagers and Conebills at Regua Wetland and at Serra dos Orgaos lower trail again in a mixed flock.

FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus cristatus)

B.C. picked one up by the bench in the Lodge gardens – it was a male and seen head-on which threw the identification initially.

Many were seen at Serra dos Orgaos N.P. and again on the Jacamar Excursion.

Males seen daily in the Lodge gardens. The ruby crown is never seen, so it appears overall black. White wing-flashes in flight. Females around also.

BLACK-GOGGLED TANAGER (Trichothraupis melanops)

Seen most days, including in the Lodge gardens, but not at the feeders.


Seen on the Lodge Trails and the Cedae Trail.

HEPATIC TANAGER (Piranga flava)

A pair were spotted by Pete as we drove through the Macae de Cima Trail.

The van was stopped for close views.
BRAZILIAN TANAGER (Ramphocelus bresilius)

Seen daily at the Lodge feeders. Females / juvs outnumbered males.

SAYACA TANAGER (Thraupis sayaca)

Daily at the Lodge feeders.


Seen only on the Theodoro and Macae de Cima Trails.


Daily at the Lodge feeders.

PALM TANAGER (T. palmarum)

Daily at the Lodge feeders.

DIADEMED TANAGER (Stephanophorus diadematus)

8 noted on the High Altitude Higher Trail were noted as being very handsome.


Daily at the Lodge feeders.


2 were seen on the Theodoro Trail with Pete, who recognized the call.

Rare, as Andy Foster needs it!

Daily at the Lodge feeders, in smaller numbers than Violaceous.


Daily at the Lodge feeders .

BLUE-NAPED CHLOROPHONIA (Chlorophonia cyanea)

A male on the Lodge feeders on 2 dates.


Very common at the Lodge feeders. The most numerous Tanager seen.

Head is blue!
RED-NECKED TANAGER (T. cyanocephala)

Seen on the Lodge Yellow Trail with 10 together on one visit.


First seen on the Theodoro Trail.

A flock were on the corner where we had Giant Antshrike on the Macae de Cima Trail and on various other trails.
GILT-EDGED TANAGER (T. cyanoventris)

20 in a mixed flock on the very busy corner near our lunch-stop on the

Jacamar Excursion were noted as being very gaudy.

Regular at the Lodge feeders in small numbers (2 max.)

BLUE DACNIS (D. cayana)

Daily at the Lodge feeders.

GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza)

Daily at the Lodge feeders.


2 noted at the Regua Wetland.

SWALLOW TANAGER (Tersina viridis)

Large numbers at Regua in a mixed Tanager flock, also at Portao Azul and on the Jacamar Excursion.


Flocks of up to 8 seen on the High Altitude Upper section. Superb!

BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)

Present at the roadsides around Regua, Portao Azul and the Jacamar Excursion.

LINED SEEDEATER (Sporophila lineola)

At Regua a pair were seen and the male was noted as being superb black and white.


Seen at the roadside at Traffic lights in Nova Friburgo, near a pig farm at

Portao Azul and on the Jacamar Excursion

3 in a marshy field where we saw Ash-throated Crake on the Jacamar Excursion.

UNIFORM FINCH (Haplospiza unicolor)

A flock of females / imm’s at Portao Azul, also seen on the Bamboo and

Macae de Cima Trails, and a male was seen near the bench in the Lodge gardens on our last morning.
SAFFRON FINCH (Sicalis flaveola)

Seen in the Lodge gardens daily and at various other locations.

HALF-COLLARED SPARROW (Arremon semitorquatus)

Stunning close views of one brought in by I-pod at Portao Azul and another on the very busy lunchtime corner on the Jacamar Excursion.

GRASSLAND SPARROW (Ammodramus humeralis)

2 on the Jacamar Excursion near where we saw Firewood Gatherer.

RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis)

Seen on 6 days in various places.


One called out at Serra dos Orgaos N.P. lower section.


One brought out by B.C. using a taped recording of its calls (supplied by Andy) near the bench in the Lodge gardens on our last morning.


A brief sighting of one as it flew through a gap where Nils had it perched was the only sighting, on the Bamboo Trail.

CHESTNUT-CAPPED BLACKBIRD (Agelaius ruficapillus)

Seen by L.C. (2) at the first stop on a main road on the Jacamar Excursion.

SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)

Several at Regua Wetland, also seen on the Jacamar Excursion.

RED-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus haemorrhous)

Pete saw one fly past in a valley below us after reaching the top of the forest trail at Regua. We stood and waited for quite a while (also watching a Laughing Falcon) and eventually had great views as one flew round and doubled back in front of us.

CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus)

Noted at Macae de Cima, also seen on the Jacamar Excursion

CHOPI BLACKBIRD (Gnorimopsar chopi)

8 seen on the Jacamar Excursion (one had been singing near the

Firewood Gatherer’s nests and Pete said it was unusual to see one alone)
HOODED SISKIN (Carduelis magellanica)

A flock in a field on the Jacamar Excursion.

HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)

Can’t remember where, but I know we saw them!

Actually it was always around petrol stations.

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