|Tilt test #1: Remove barrel/receiver from stock, then remove oprod spring, oprod catch, follower arm and bullet guide. Hold receiver/barrel group with sights up and elevate the barrel. The bolt should slide all the way back by the time you elevate the barrel 30°. Now, depress the barrel; the bolt should slide to battery by the time you reach 30° depression. You should be able to do this back and forth with no hangups.
Tilt test #2: Place stripped receiver/barrel group into stock and hold receiver firmly in place without interfering with oprod or bolt travel. Repeat test #1. Look for same results.
Tilt test #3: Place trigger group in stock and lock it in. Shove bolt to full battery and elevate barrel. Bolt should slide back and engage hammer cam by 30°. The bolt should not slide forward from this position without help.
Tilt test #4: Remove trigger group from stock and remove hammer from trigger group, then replace trigger group and lock up. Repeat test #1.
If any test fails, look for friction from oprod rubbing on wood, stock ferrule, front handguard, front handguard spacer, or bent oprod.
"A small shove" to open or close at 30° means the bolt/oprod is binding which can affect accuracy.
I ask this question for a few reasons. I have befriended a number of younger shooters recently (I'm 50), many who have purchased Garands through the CMP. I find that none of them have any idea how to keep there M1 running to the best of it's ability. I was at the range recently with one of these fellows, when he broke out his M1. He was shooting some very round, 12" groups at 100yds with his Greek ammo. I asked to look over the rifle and he was glad to oblige. I pulled it out of the stock and found it to be as dry as a popcorn fart. I greased the usual places, including the stock ferrule. I also tightened the stacking swivel, put the thing back in the wood, and had him burn a clip into the backstop. He then turned on the target and was amazed that the groups were now about 7". He later brought the rifle to me, I peened the splines, crowned the muzzle, tightened up the front handguard liner, and re-installed the gas cylinder taking notice of the gas port alignment. He had it to the range after that and found it would shoot4"-5" groups all day. I have found a lot of Garand shooters who never shot highpower, and were never schooled in the proper care of there rifle. I have found the most common problems are: no grease on the barrel/op-rod interface (or the "I hope they don't interface" area). Loose stacking swivel. NO LUBE on the stock ferrule. No lube in the upper area of the receiver. No lube on the trigger guard locking pins. Something else a lot of people don't do, and something I was taught with my match M1, is right after cleaning, stand the rifle in a corner, muzzle down, and put a few drops of Hoppes on the op-rod so it will SLOWLY creep down and soften the fouling in on the op-rod where it rides in the gas cylinder. I was taught this by a former USMCR match armorer(friend of Gus Fishers), and do it to this day. I guess what I'm saying is if you know these tricks, pass the info along. If I had not known the people I do, I might be completely lost. No, I'm certainly not an armorer, but do know how to tweak a Garand, thanks to my buddy and his USMC training. Don't let this knowledge die.
Fog, acc'd to Roy Baumgardner, "Precision Shooting with the M1 Garand", the stacking swivel swings violently forward under recoil, smacking the bottom of the gas cylinder. He says this is like somebody hitting the gas cylinder with a small hammer just as you pull the trigger. He goes on to say you should swing the swivel forward all the way, then tighten the screw so the swivel can't move.
The loose handguard is preferable to tight so the barrel can lengthen as it heats up without binding. But on match guns you glue/screw the handguard to the lower band, thereby avoiding just what you figured out- the handguard sliding around isn't good for accuracy either.
The basic parts of the sights for the M1 are not hard to work with . You can even put together a good sight if you have enough parts to pick and choose from . The sights you are likely to encounter are one of the lockbar types or the T105E1 sight . Both fit to the rifle the same but have different parts to make it work . I sorta like using the lock bar on rifles that have the sight serrations a little weak and the 105 sights for those that have deeper cuts .
Lockbar is on the left , the 105 is on the right . Do ya wanna know what they look like in pieces ? Now don't get excited and scatter this stuff all over , some of it gets lost in the carpet easy .
Lockbar is still on the left mind you . Here's a couple parts that you really dont want to loose from the lockbar assembly .
I think Bill Ricca may have had some reproductions of these parts made but it's better not to loose them in the first place . They fit inside the windage knob on the lockbar set .
To disassemble the lockbar , start with removing the lockbar itself . Some of them are staked on rather well so it may present a problem for you getting it off .
Remember , righty tighty lefty loosey here .
When the bar is off , unscrew the windage knob counter-clockwise .
Remember , inside this drum is those little parts you don't want to loose . Next , remove the elevation drum pinion . It should pull out with a little wiggling with the windage drum gone .
You are putting these parts somewhere you are gonna find them easily ........ right ? Now with the apeture raised a bit , you can push forward and up and remove the sight base and spring cover .
This is one spring that won't launch itself across the room when it pops free .
Now that you have it in pieces , srub it down with a good degreaser and a brush and get it ready to go back together . While assembling the sight , use a little grease that doesn't run all over the place or else you will know why when the rifle starts to recoil :lol: If you look for the spots that have wear marks , that is where you apply the lube .
Putting the sight back together is the reverse of taking it down . Start with the spring cover and sight base on the reciever .
A screwdriver will set the spring into the slot for you . Setting the apeture into the sight base slot is next , make sure you greased it a little .
Now from here I think I'll show you how to put the 105 E1 parts into the sight . The lockbar type since you took them off can put installed easy enough . The 105E1 can be removed the reverse of how I'm showing you to install them . This stuff ain't as hard as some computers huh?
Install the elevation pinion , wiggle the gears untill they slide together . You did grease the parts that bear against each other right ? If you spent a little time sorting pinions untill you found one that engages the sight serrations well you are ahead of the game .
Now install the 105 type windage nut , it will want to line up with the small flat in the elevation pinion before things go together real well . When you have it all together so things work , it's time to adjust the tension on the sight . I use the multi-tool to tighten the nut inside the windage drum .
This will tighten clockwise , it needs to be tight enough that you can still move the windage knob while you are slung in prone and do it easy . But not so loose when you fire the rifle the sight drops to the bottom . Tighten it and check the knobs motion , it's gotta be easy to turn . Then raise the sight up and see if you can push it down with your thumb .
Nothing to this really , See I told ya you could do it :wink:Fitting parts for a closer tolerance will help the sight not find a different point to rest at each shot . That sort of thing is what makes the sights be responsible for bad groups . Some of that you can fix by selecting parts that don't have as much slop . Careful use of a caliper and knowing how each part works in relation to putting the bullet downrange will make the sight work real well for you . It won't be as good as a carefully fitted National match sight , but it will be better than most of the sights on rifles now .
Hope this helps ya , Jack