Installation instructions
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TURBO KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS HIBOOST HB 103 TURBO KIT FOR 2.3 AND 2.0 LITER MAZDA 3 Congratulations, you have just purchased the best turbo kit available for the Mazda 3 
Picture may differ from actual product. In order to have a smooth installation, it is best to read the instructions and go step by step. Make sure you have all the tools needed to do the job. A regular metric wrench set and sockets, Phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, pliers, electrical tape, knife and basic tools is what is needed. 4 quarts of new and synthetic oil, some silicone sealant and red Loctite thread locker is also required. First, you need to remove the wiper blades and arms. This is done by removing the cups covering the wipers nut. Remove both nuts and remove the wipers by pulling them off. 
Then remove the plastic cover by removing the rivets and seal that goes from side to side. Be careful not to break these little rivets. After this, then unbolt the nine 10mm bolts to remove the metallic cowl. 
This is done to allow the stock manifold to come off the car. Now remove all bolts to remove the heat shield from stock manifold. Unbolt the two 14mm bolts from exhaust and all bolts from exhaust manifold to head. Disconnect both O2 sensors. Remove the exhaust header from car. Now remove the front bumper by loosing the bolts under it, the plastic fasteners from both sides of splash guards and the bolts on top. Once the bumper is off, disconnect the MAF sensor, unbolt the small MAP sensor, remove the air filter, and filter resonator and intake from its place. 
Remove the two 10mm bolts from front frame. Place the intercooler in the indicated spots by bolting it with the 2 brackets welded to it, with the same two bolts that were there before. 
Now it is the best time to do the electrical wiring because there is enough space to work between the motor and the firewall. Look for the grommet shown in picture and make a cross cut large enough to run the connectors and wires thru it. Refer to the electrical instructions. Under the glove compartment, look for the black fuse cover. Remove it by releasing two little hooks that hold it in place. Then look for two little butterfly bolts and unscrew them. That will loose the fuse block and remove from its place. This will give you space to work. After you have done the cuts in the grommet, run a piece of wire or cable, run it from the outside to the inside and with this you will be able to pull the Haltech wires thru the firewall. The Haltech ECU will fit behind the air conditioning fan case inside the cabin. Run the harness and wires along the stock wiring (following the same path) and tie the haltech wiring to the stock wiring with tie wraps. 
There is one connector with 8 or 6 pins and there is a flying lead wiring. The Connector is to plug into the second harness that will connect now into the Haltech sensors. The black sensor is the coolant temp and this is screwed into an aluminium case. Cut the upper heater hose(on head side), shown, and place it in between the two ends. See yellow circle. There is a metal bracket that holds the brake booster line, the fuel lines and other stuff between the valve cover and ECU box. Remove that bracket completely to clear the intake pipe. The Gray sensor and connector is the air temp sensor and that goes in the charge pipe. Screw the sensor into the provided threaded hole in the charge pipe. 
The 3 wire connector goes to the Map Using the MAP sensor as a template, drill two 6mm holes on top of the plastic beam. Once this is done, place the sensor underneath the beam using the bolts and nuts supplied. (SEE PICTURE). Find the only vacuum source in the intake manifold by removing the rubber cap on it. Remove it and run the vacuum line for both the map sensor and the blow off Valve using the Tee provided. 
VACUUM SOURCE. 
COOLANT TEMP SENSOR LOCATION Install the new turbo manifold, the turbocharger and down pipe. Install and bolt the down pipe, midpipe and exhaust. With the turbo in place install the intercooler pipes. #1 pipe that goes under the oil pan, #2 pipe that is the U shape pipe into the intercooler inlet. 
The new version uses a different donpipe, so the mid pipe is eliminated and we now have the addition of the remote wastegate. 
Pipe #1 is the longest of all with the bracket welded to it. Pipe #2 is the U shape pipe Pipe#3 is the shortest one and it is aluminium Pipe#4 is the one with the blow off valve and tight elbow.
1st oil feed line: Remove the oil sender from its location. Install the supplied fittings in the way shown to clear the clutch cylinder. 
Then install the oil feed line from the fitting to the turbo. There are two washers; one should go between the turbo and banjo and the other between the banjo and bolt. Tighten the bolt hard enough to crush the washers. Do not over tighten as you might snap the bolt. 2nd oil return line: Remove the oil plug and oil on bottom of oil pan. Place the supplied fitting in the oil plug place and tighten well to prevent any oil leaks. 
Now route the oil return line from turbo to oil drain fitting. Now install the Air Intake System with the supplied hose and the air mass sensor into the intake (snake) pipe using the small bolts and spacers supplied. Install the air filter. Use the L shape bracket to bolt the stock map sensor, which was originally placed in the intake system, to put it in the battery plastic box using the existing hole. 
Please re- check all hoses, all connections and vacuum lines to make sure that everything is tight and in the right place. Refill with new oil, synthetic preferred, start the engine and check for any oil leaks or any exhaust leaks. Once the engine is warm, go for a test drive. Use only the best octane fuel available in your area and make some short runs in third or fourth gear. Listen for any pinging. If it does, let off the throttle. Detonation can destroy an engine in seconds. You are ready to Boost!!!!! Enjoy! If you want more power, we got it for you. Here are a few parts that we have developed for the Mazda3. Forged internals: 
Built block 
Big Boost kit dyno sheet:  |
